Wipeout

We just ran 24 hours on what we believe was an original rubber-centered clutch disk in an '83 944. Trust me, I was worried.

originalmotorhead

Similar topic question here. Had a parts car that sat for over two years and I could not get the motor separated from the torque tube. Finally ended up having to go thru the access hole and pull the bolts holding the pressur plate to the flywheel, one by one, to get it to separate. now i can'te get the pressure plate and throw out bearing out of the bellhousing. am i doing something wrong, is there a trick to this ?

Tom

PeteL

I have a sachs clutch that I installed in Jan 1998. Still working well, although it may be coming time soon for a new one. Just a bit of slippage on my Daily Driver.

krystar

motorhead. u already dropped the tranny right? the torque tube should just pull out after u remove those 4 bolts. there's nothing inside holding it. it's just splines.

John_AZ

Did you remove the clutch fork shaft?
There is a 6mm? bolt with a 10mm? head that keeps it in. Remove the bolt.
The end of the clutch fork shaft has a threaded 8mm? hole for you to screw in a long bolt and use it as leverage to get the shaft out. I just clamp it with a vice grips and pound on the vice grips to remove it. Others use a dent body tool with a weight.

GL
John_AZ

krystar

it's like the clutch fork retaining shaft. either u can pull it out with the threaded bolt or u can use a long blunt object (like a smooth rod) and tap it to push it thru the other end. just make sure u don't damage the stop.

originalmotorhead

The whole kit and kabootle are out of the car and on my garage floor. I even went so far as to take the 4 bolts off from the torque tube so now just the bellhousing is by itself but the pressure plate is stuck in the housing via the throw out bearing. I did remove that 10mm headed bolt off the back side of the bellhousing. So what do I do now ? run a punch thru the hole that the bolt cale out of ?

This has me baffeled, I'm used to a clutch configuraton where the fork presses the bearing toward the flywheel to release grip. This sucker appears to have a setup that pulls on the throwout bearing to release the clutch?(am i right?)

Tom

944Ross

Yes, it pulls on the PP/release bearing. What you haven't done is pull the fork pivot shaft out of the BH. The bolt you removed is perpendicular to the shaft. The end of the pivot shaft is further down and is female threaded. Screw in a bolt and pull on the bolt to remove the shaft.

krystar

yea there's a bolt that's "securing" the shaft so it doesn't walk its way out. after u undo that bolt, u have to manually extract out the shaft either by slide hammer+bolt pulling or hammer+rod pushing. it took me a while the first time to figure that out too

the location for you to thread in a bolt for pulling is right around the corner from where you removed the retaining bolt.

originalmotorhead

I think I know what you're talking about. There appears to be a black plug like piece with threads inside. So my guess is I screw a bolt into that and give it a pull and then it comes apart ? I'll try that tonight. Thanks !!

Tom

John_AZ

Tom,
It will take more than a "pull"--you will find this out.

When you get the shaft out, look at it carefully. Minor bearing marks can be smoothed with 400 emery paper. If they feel real deep, you might decide to get a new shaft. The same goes for the clutch fork. A minor groove on the TO fingers can be OK. A deep groove is bad. eBay usually has the set.

GL
John_AZ

krystar

and when it comes time to reassemble, clean out the shaft SQUEEAKY clean. and the hole it goes into also. a lil lubrication doesn't hurt either when you're putting the shaft back into the hole.

and that advice applies in other situations also *drumroll*

V2Rocket

more like a big stonking yank

Litespeeds

Funny how this thread started with a problem with my Sachs clutch disc and it turned into something totally different.

This thread is meant for those who need to replace their clutch and find alternatives to the Sachs clutch disc.

schwank

Heard back from Greg Fordahl today that he is expecting his first batch of custom clutches in the next couple weeks. As I said earlier, I and many other racers have had the Sachs issue in the last year or so. He looked into options including talking with Sachs and says:

" I have had several conversations with the Sachs clutch specialist here in the States regarding the manufacturing flaw that exists in all the Sachs Sport disks. The rivets used to secure the lining to the spring hub are either over crimped or the lining has insufficient counter bore for the rivets used. This causes the lining to fracture under even medium loads. My response from Sachs was that they can indeed produce a racing disk for our application, but they would cost in the vicinity of $750 to $850 for a sintered metal disk only.... I have specified a Kevlar, solid center disk to replace the Sachs disk but still be compatible with the Sachs pressure plate from another source"

And the anticipated cost is less than a new Sachs disk. Looking forward to seeing what comes out of this!