Odd clicking from the rear only under power...
03-23-2003, 11:38 PM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Odd clicking from the rear only under power...
Okay, a week ago I was backing up in my car and heard a very slight "thunk" "thunk" noise. No probs. Then the car sat in the garage for a week while I fiberglassed the battery box. Every time I'd work on it, I would push it out, then push it back in.
Today I backed into a spot, then when I started driving again, my car made a bad sounding clicking noise from (I believe) the rear of the car. The clicking rate varied in accordance with the speed of the car. It would only make the clicking under power, or when slowing down in gear. The more power I put down, the louder the clicks. When I push in the clutch or I'm neither accelerating or decelerating, there is no clicking.
I parked the car, and when I started it, it rolled back a bit, and the clicking stopped. Not one click under full load, no odd noises. Then as I was pulling into my driveway, I stopped the car completely, then continued on and the clicking came back.
The car never shuddered at all...I just don't know what's going on. It sounds expensive. I'm annoyed.
Today I backed into a spot, then when I started driving again, my car made a bad sounding clicking noise from (I believe) the rear of the car. The clicking rate varied in accordance with the speed of the car. It would only make the clicking under power, or when slowing down in gear. The more power I put down, the louder the clicks. When I push in the clutch or I'm neither accelerating or decelerating, there is no clicking.
I parked the car, and when I started it, it rolled back a bit, and the clicking stopped. Not one click under full load, no odd noises. Then as I was pulling into my driveway, I stopped the car completely, then continued on and the clicking came back.
The car never shuddered at all...I just don't know what's going on. It sounds expensive. I'm annoyed.
03-23-2003, 11:50 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
Sounds like C.V. joints on their way out. Temperature changes and age will make the grease brittle and wear them out.
Not too big of a deal, but it will cost some cash to repair, unless you can DIY.
Not too big of a deal, but it will cost some cash to repair, unless you can DIY.
03-23-2003, 11:51 PM
#3
Race Car
yep, sounds like CV joints
03-24-2003, 12:06 AM
#5
Three Wheelin'
CV Joints.....if they have just started, one of the 944 Turbo mechanics I know (races his) said to try taking a grease gun hypodermic needle and injecting some grease back into them since they would do it off and on and not all the time. Got some semi-synthetic moly grease for the grease gun and shot it in.....all quiet and then I heard just a bit a few days later, but as it gets slung around in there and settles in, it has totally quit. As I'm spending a lot on the car at the moment, I was hoping to not have to move up to rebuilding or replacing them....and that got it. A $10 or less fix....at least for hopefully 6 months or so...may last quite a long time...I've heard some people just remove and repack them and go for years again on them. Don't know where that grease goes, but goes it does!
Cheers!
Cheers!
03-24-2003, 04:40 AM
#6
Rennlist Member
turbo944, that's a way to buy yourself a little time. The key thing is that the bearings in the C.V. joints aren't scored. If they are, they'll end up binding and clicking again.
The "full monty" repair is R/R and repacking them with fresh grease, like you indicate. However, depending on the cost of labor in your area, you're sometimes better off just buying new axles with C.V. joints and swapping them out.
The "full monty" repair is R/R and repacking them with fresh grease, like you indicate. However, depending on the cost of labor in your area, you're sometimes better off just buying new axles with C.V. joints and swapping them out.
03-24-2003, 09:42 AM
#7
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Trem,
Similar thing happened to my '87 944T as well though the sound was more of a distinct 'rap' that
only happened under throttle. Had the rear up on stands and pushed the half shafts back and forth and the sound went away. Theory was grease got pushed around in the joints by doing this.
Took it to my mechanic and he found that one ball
in the rear outer CV had a severe dent in it. Replaced that one ($90) and repacked the rest.
Mech pointed out that fortunately for me, I had 33 spline count on the half shaft which allowed for individual joint replacement. Later models require complete half shaft replacement ($$$).
Similar thing happened to my '87 944T as well though the sound was more of a distinct 'rap' that
only happened under throttle. Had the rear up on stands and pushed the half shafts back and forth and the sound went away. Theory was grease got pushed around in the joints by doing this.
Took it to my mechanic and he found that one ball
in the rear outer CV had a severe dent in it. Replaced that one ($90) and repacked the rest.
Mech pointed out that fortunately for me, I had 33 spline count on the half shaft which allowed for individual joint replacement. Later models require complete half shaft replacement ($$$).
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03-24-2003, 11:28 AM
#8
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Grease injection sounds like a plan...I'm gonna look around for replacement/repacking procedures. It sounds like you need real, actual tools for this job, which I don't have. Thanks for the direction, guys.
03-24-2003, 11:52 AM
#9
Professor of Pending Projects
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It is an easy job, but real messy...
Let me take a few photos since my car is apart and do q quick write up of the procedure.
Let me take a few photos since my car is apart and do q quick write up of the procedure.
03-24-2003, 11:58 AM
#10
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when we did a major service on my car last summer my wrench replaced the boots (100 from paragon) and repacked the bearings. at the same time he confirmed they were in a1 condition.
there is a thread that says you should also replace the bolts every time you take them out. unless you are seriously beating the car or tracking it, i dont think thats necessary, but some of the engineers here will probably say otherwise.
there is a thread that says you should also replace the bolts every time you take them out. unless you are seriously beating the car or tracking it, i dont think thats necessary, but some of the engineers here will probably say otherwise.
03-24-2003, 12:07 PM
#11
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I pulled my axles out this weekend to swap them from side to side. I cleaned them as best as I could without further disassembly, and pushed new grease down into the bearings. Definitely made for smoother acceleration under heavy boost/load.
You'll need an 8mm triple-square bit/socket to remove the bolts, which I did replace with new. Be sure to tap the bit into the bolt head for each use to ensure a good grip. I found this helped with installation in addition to removal.
Ron
You'll need an 8mm triple-square bit/socket to remove the bolts, which I did replace with new. Be sure to tap the bit into the bolt head for each use to ensure a good grip. I found this helped with installation in addition to removal.
Ron
03-24-2003, 01:32 PM
#13
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
You swapped axles from side to side? I've never heard of that...Is this along the lines of rotating the tires? Is this something I might want to do "while I'm in there?"
Wachuko, photos would be excellent! The writeup on <a href="http://clarks-garage.com" target="_blank">Clark's Garage</a> looks good and complete, but there isn't a photo to speak of.
This isn't as big a job as I thought it would be. Worst case, I'm sure I can replace an axle for $200 all in (which really isn't great, but it's not a clutch). I'm gonna go get some grease and a gun and see if I can get away with just a refill. As of Fall, the boots all looked good.
Any brand recommendations, etc, or do I just walk into AutoZone and say "I need some moly-based CV joint grease and a gun."
Wachuko, photos would be excellent! The writeup on <a href="http://clarks-garage.com" target="_blank">Clark's Garage</a> looks good and complete, but there isn't a photo to speak of.
This isn't as big a job as I thought it would be. Worst case, I'm sure I can replace an axle for $200 all in (which really isn't great, but it's not a clutch). I'm gonna go get some grease and a gun and see if I can get away with just a refill. As of Fall, the boots all looked good.
Any brand recommendations, etc, or do I just walk into AutoZone and say "I need some moly-based CV joint grease and a gun."
03-24-2003, 02:21 PM
#14
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Do I have to take this thing apart to get grease in there or can I loosen up some clamps on the boots and just stuff some in? Porsche factory manual doesn't seem to make much mention, unless I'm looking in the wrong place (chassis, transmission)...
03-24-2003, 02:28 PM
#15
Professor of Pending Projects
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Tremelune:
<strong>You swapped axles from side to side? I've never heard of that...Is this along the lines of rotating the tires? Is this something I might want to do "while I'm in there?"
Wachuko, photos would be excellent! The writeup on <a href="http://clarks-garage.com" target="_blank">Clark's Garage</a> looks good and complete, but there isn't a photo to speak of.
This isn't as big a job as I thought it would be. Worst case, I'm sure I can replace an axle for $200 all in (which really isn't great, but it's not a clutch). I'm gonna go get some grease and a gun and see if I can get away with just a refill. As of Fall, the boots all looked good.
Any brand recommendations, etc, or do I just walk into AutoZone and say "I need some moly-based CV joint grease and a gun."</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">If the boots are OK and the sound is not that bad, repacking them and rotating/flipping them should do the trick.
I suggest you get new bolts anyway. Paragon seems to be the place to get them for the least amount of money ($.55). Before trying to remove the old ones, clean the are well, maybe use some degreaser before. If the wrench does not go all the way in you will damage the bolt and it will be a pita to remove. You can avoid this by cleaning the bolts good and tapping the socket when you put it in. Make sure you keep the socket as straight as possible and apply good pressure while turning.
The Haynes Manual has a good set up photos in Chapter 8 describing the process.
Let me go ahead and upload the photos I just took.
EDIT: Also, buy the best 8mm 12 point you can find... money well spent
and yes, any good moly based CVJ Grease will do the trick
<strong>You swapped axles from side to side? I've never heard of that...Is this along the lines of rotating the tires? Is this something I might want to do "while I'm in there?"
Wachuko, photos would be excellent! The writeup on <a href="http://clarks-garage.com" target="_blank">Clark's Garage</a> looks good and complete, but there isn't a photo to speak of.
This isn't as big a job as I thought it would be. Worst case, I'm sure I can replace an axle for $200 all in (which really isn't great, but it's not a clutch). I'm gonna go get some grease and a gun and see if I can get away with just a refill. As of Fall, the boots all looked good.
Any brand recommendations, etc, or do I just walk into AutoZone and say "I need some moly-based CV joint grease and a gun."</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">If the boots are OK and the sound is not that bad, repacking them and rotating/flipping them should do the trick.
I suggest you get new bolts anyway. Paragon seems to be the place to get them for the least amount of money ($.55). Before trying to remove the old ones, clean the are well, maybe use some degreaser before. If the wrench does not go all the way in you will damage the bolt and it will be a pita to remove. You can avoid this by cleaning the bolts good and tapping the socket when you put it in. Make sure you keep the socket as straight as possible and apply good pressure while turning.
The Haynes Manual has a good set up photos in Chapter 8 describing the process.
Let me go ahead and upload the photos I just took.
EDIT: Also, buy the best 8mm 12 point you can find... money well spent
and yes, any good moly based CVJ Grease will do the trick