HELP: 951 has no power and stumbles after t-belt change
#1
HELP: 951 has no power and stumbles after t-belt change
Recently replaced the water pump/tbelt/bbelt and the oil pressure sender on my 951. It had been sitting all last winter before I did this work. Finally get it put back together last night, start it up, and it's not running right. In 2nd gear, I go to get on it, and it lacks power, and stumbles when the gas is depressed quickly, or at a rate you would usually "get on it" on. The pedal travels pretty far before the car responds and stumbles. Doesn't feel good. Any thoughts/suggestions? Does the oil pressure sender send any info to the DME that might tell the car it is low pressure, or something like that, if the unit is defectiove, causing DME to go into some sort of safe mode, etc?
I checked all the obvious electrical connections that I un-did for t-belt change.
Also, there was a clicking sort of relay sound coming from the passengers footwell area while I was idleing. Never heard it before....what could that be...maybe related?
Thanks
Mike
I checked all the obvious electrical connections that I un-did for t-belt change.
Also, there was a clicking sort of relay sound coming from the passengers footwell area while I was idleing. Never heard it before....what could that be...maybe related?
Thanks
Mike
#2
Just a car guy
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You have confirmed the sprockets are set properly, I assume? Having the belt off by a few teeth will cause the engine to run poorly.
Also if it has been sitting for some time the gas may have gone bad and gunked (technical term) up the fuel filter, injectors, etc.
Vacuum lines? Plug wires? Distributor cap? Lots of possible things. One time I forgot to reinstall the MAF connection. Car wouldn't start, so that's not your problem. Just pointing out how something seemingly simple can be forgotten at the time of putting it all back together.
The clicking sound on the passenger's side. If you have cruise control - check the motor. It likes to make noises on my girlfriend's car at start up. It's higher up than the foot well though.
Also if it has been sitting for some time the gas may have gone bad and gunked (technical term) up the fuel filter, injectors, etc.
Vacuum lines? Plug wires? Distributor cap? Lots of possible things. One time I forgot to reinstall the MAF connection. Car wouldn't start, so that's not your problem. Just pointing out how something seemingly simple can be forgotten at the time of putting it all back together.
The clicking sound on the passenger's side. If you have cruise control - check the motor. It likes to make noises on my girlfriend's car at start up. It's higher up than the foot well though.
#4
Rennlist Member
Sounds like a vacuum leak, or something is amiss in/near/under the cap and rotor - like the rotor's screw is out - or a wire isn't plugged in right.
I think the clicking relay is for the climate control and probably not related.
No, the oil pressure does not go to the DME.
I think the clicking relay is for the climate control and probably not related.
No, the oil pressure does not go to the DME.
#7
That clicking sound you hear in the passenger footwell sounds like it may be the alarm brain acting up. As far as your no power issue when you push on the gas pedal you may want to check your TPS switch on the throttle body. We have had a few customers with the same symptoms and the TPS switch ended up being the culprit.
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#8
86 951 lacking power - Vac leak detection
Pulled the air box, pulled line off intake manifold, and pressurized to 10 psi.
Pluged J boot with light bulb (round style one, fit in perfectly) and plugged line I took off manifold to insert air.
I am hearing leakage from under the manifold. Is this a legit test, or would one expect air to enter the combustion chamber for the cylinder staged to fire? Seems to me there would be a never ending flow of air into the combustion chamber of the engine at any given time.
Clarks-Garage says to do this, but does not include details outlining any special procedure to test.
I find it hard to believe there is not more to putting air into the intake system and
making an assessment of leakage condition such as the vac leak I suspect I have. Would love to not have to take the intake manifold off, but know it is no big deal if it comes to that. Still suspect the AFM and the fuel filter...just trying to go to the most logical place first.
Thanks
Pluged J boot with light bulb (round style one, fit in perfectly) and plugged line I took off manifold to insert air.
I am hearing leakage from under the manifold. Is this a legit test, or would one expect air to enter the combustion chamber for the cylinder staged to fire? Seems to me there would be a never ending flow of air into the combustion chamber of the engine at any given time.
Clarks-Garage says to do this, but does not include details outlining any special procedure to test.
I find it hard to believe there is not more to putting air into the intake system and
making an assessment of leakage condition such as the vac leak I suspect I have. Would love to not have to take the intake manifold off, but know it is no big deal if it comes to that. Still suspect the AFM and the fuel filter...just trying to go to the most logical place first.
Thanks
#9
Rennlist Member
You'll hear a little air escaping through the cylinder head and into the exhaust (one cylinder is bound to have both intake and exhaust valves opened a little bit - valve overlap).
If you're hearing major air leaking out, you have a major air leak.
If you're hearing major air leaking out, you have a major air leak.
#10
Rennlist Member
P.s. with your air pressurizing the intake, take some soapy water and see if you can find the place where it's coming out (it'll make bubbles).
My hunch is it's near your idle control stabilizer.
My hunch is it's near your idle control stabilizer.