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Synthetic oil for break-in oil?

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Old 08-24-2009, 05:26 PM
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KuHL 951
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Default Synthetic oil for break-in oil?

Sorry but this isn't for P-cars but worth asking gearheads. I have a new 3600W Generator/Inverter in shipment. The generator ships dry. The manual only specifies 10W-30 SJ or higher but no mention of synthetic. Can synthetic oil cause any issues with the rings seating correctly during break-in for a cast iron cylinder? I've heard both pros and cons.
Old 08-24-2009, 06:18 PM
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billthe3
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If nothing else, non-synthetic will be cheaper to replace when you change the oil after break-in.

People at school said that synthetic oils are good enough these days that they may interfere with the rings' ability to seat when breaking in, but I don't know how true that is.
Old 08-24-2009, 06:29 PM
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krystar
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Originally Posted by billthe3
People at school said that synthetic oils are good enough these days that they may interfere with the rings' ability to seat when breaking in, but I don't know how true that is.

that's what i've read too. synthetic is actually too slippery for the rings to wear-in.
Old 08-24-2009, 06:33 PM
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StoogeMoe
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You would think the manufacturer would supply the break in procedures / recommendations for their product. Maybe a quick call to them for their advice?
Old 08-24-2009, 06:39 PM
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KuHL 951
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Thanks. That's the same thing I always heard also but then Porsches and Corvettes comes off the assembly line with synthetic. I'll just run some Castrol GTX to be safe and drain it after 10 hours runtime. I think all generators and small gas engines might be fired up and then drained for shipment I'm not sure. I might pull the plug wire and turn it over a few times just to be safe.
Old 08-24-2009, 06:41 PM
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MM951
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FWIW, When I worked as a helper in a machine shop building forumla atlantic motors the boss always said to run dino oil (He used Rotella) to break it in, then whatever you want.
Old 08-24-2009, 10:16 PM
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944Ross
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If the generator engine is air-cooled (very likely), I would go to a motorcycle shop and buy their dino oil. Oil mixed for bikes is ashless among other things, which helps prevent plug fouling at the higher temps air-cooled engines see, and the other additives are likewise optimized for higher temps. WalMart does sell some bike oil, too.
Old 08-25-2009, 11:59 AM
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OntarioTurbo
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For my generator(4500 watt 7.8 hp), the manual said that synthetics are OK, but run the first 10 hours on dino. I also have a seperate spin-on oil filter so I ran the 10 hours with 5w30 dino (reccomended in manual for my temp range) and then changed the oil and filter. I now run 5w30 synthetic. I'm sure the engine will last a long time.
Old 08-25-2009, 01:35 PM
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And just to throw in another tidbit, I noticed all the aircraft in the rental fleet at my FBO that have rebuilt motors run "mineral oil" for the first 50 hrs (there is a tag on the dipstick that tells me this) - I couldn't tell you why they do this, but its an air-cooled engine that reliability is extremely important to.
Old 08-25-2009, 01:59 PM
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KuHL 951
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Originally Posted by OntarioTurbo
For my generator(4500 watt 7.8 hp), the manual said that synthetics are OK, but run the first 10 hours on dino. I also have a seperate spin-on oil filter so I ran the 10 hours with 5w30 dino (reccomended in manual for my temp range) and then changed the oil and filter. I now run 5w30 synthetic. I'm sure the engine will last a long time.
Thanks to all I have some extra Rotella 10W-30 dino I store my spare lifters in. After break-in I'll use the same Rotella Diesel synthetic I use in my truck; it's also an ashless oil plus it's high in ZDDP.

Last edited by KuHL 951; 08-25-2009 at 02:16 PM.
Old 08-26-2009, 10:41 AM
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FRporscheman
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Hey Steve,

Dino for break-in.

But the best advice here is to call the manufacturer for their advice.

Freight laws prohibit shipping parts "wet", but that doesn't mean it hasn't already been broken-in and then drained.



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