944S2 Removal of Oil Filter Console
08-21-2009, 06:18 PM
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944S2 Removal of Oil Filter Console
Hi,
I think I have an oil leak from the oil filter console. What is the Removal and re-install procedure for this? Will water leak from the engine when this is removed? I have the metal gasket with rubber seal and the green o-rings. My problem is how to remove it. Ther edoes not seem to be much room to remove the oil cooler lines if they have to be removed.
Thanks,
David
I think I have an oil leak from the oil filter console. What is the Removal and re-install procedure for this? Will water leak from the engine when this is removed? I have the metal gasket with rubber seal and the green o-rings. My problem is how to remove it. Ther edoes not seem to be much room to remove the oil cooler lines if they have to be removed.
Thanks,
David
08-24-2009, 08:20 PM
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David -
I'd suggest you get (if you do not have) a 1/4" pivoting socket wrench, wobble-socket wrench extension (3"), a set of small allen head sockets, and brace yourself for some fun (LOL). And, Welcome to Rennlist - you've picked a whale of a topic for a first post
I just did this job, and you have to remove or move a fair number of parts to gain enought access. Fortunately, it's easier than for our earlier 944 NA brethern with the in-block oil cooler. Also, search "oil cooler housing" and "OPRV" or "oil pressure relief valve" (yes, with the quotes) topics to get a lot of relevant prior threads.
Also unlike the earlier 944 NAs there is NO coolant routed to the S2 oil filter housing (the passages are blocked off in the housing casting). Oil passages go through the housing to the hoses that connect to the external oil cooler.
First - drain oil and remove oil filter (sorry if that's obvious).
Second - do not disconnect the oil lines at the filter housing. Do so at the external oil cooler that is just in front of the r-front wheel (BTW - remove the wheel well inner dust shroud) At the external cooler, there is a bracket of sorts that connects the two hoses to the cooler flange. Just one allen head screw holds this bracket in place.
The bigger things I'd suggest (or that you must) remove/move:
1) Remove heat shield just below the exhaust header (this is the biggest PITA of the whole job, I think.) Here's where the wobble socket and allen head sockets go to work. The shield splits in half at two allen head bolts, reach from below. There is a bolt underneath the forward part of the shield that can only be reached when the oil filter is out. Don't be afraid to bend this shield to work it out from below. I'd also first take pics of how it's installed - once removed and bent it may not be obvious how it goes back (I tripped on that one
)
2) Remove the heat shield bracket on the oil filter housing.
3) Disconnect the low-pressure power steering connection (hose clamped) at the pump - yes, the reservoir will drain out.
4) Remove the PS pump belt and remove the PS pump from its bracket - don't disconnect the high pressure fitting at the pump - just wire the pump carefully out of the way.
5) Remove the aluminum angle brace behind the PS pump
6) Disconnect the right sway bar brace at the body, rotate it pointing downward.
7) Remove the OPRV - this is the large hex head near the bottom of the housing. Pull out carefully. You don't want to bend, bump or torque this.
8) Disconnect oil lines at the external cooler (more oil drains)
At this point, you'll have as much access as you should need. The bolts holding the housing to the block can be loosened (more oil will drain). A couple at the top are NOT easy to reach (wobble extention again). After all are out, pull it sideways a bit to clear the internal oil connection. Then, wiggle and twist to get it out from below. All this just gets the thing off the car!
Post again with your progress. You don't mention how much wrenching experience you have - hope this doesn't seem intimidating
I'd suggest you get (if you do not have) a 1/4" pivoting socket wrench, wobble-socket wrench extension (3"), a set of small allen head sockets, and brace yourself for some fun (LOL). And, Welcome to Rennlist - you've picked a whale of a topic for a first post
I just did this job, and you have to remove or move a fair number of parts to gain enought access. Fortunately, it's easier than for our earlier 944 NA brethern with the in-block oil cooler. Also, search "oil cooler housing" and "OPRV" or "oil pressure relief valve" (yes, with the quotes) topics to get a lot of relevant prior threads.
Also unlike the earlier 944 NAs there is NO coolant routed to the S2 oil filter housing (the passages are blocked off in the housing casting). Oil passages go through the housing to the hoses that connect to the external oil cooler.
First - drain oil and remove oil filter (sorry if that's obvious).
Second - do not disconnect the oil lines at the filter housing. Do so at the external oil cooler that is just in front of the r-front wheel (BTW - remove the wheel well inner dust shroud) At the external cooler, there is a bracket of sorts that connects the two hoses to the cooler flange. Just one allen head screw holds this bracket in place.
The bigger things I'd suggest (or that you must) remove/move:
1) Remove heat shield just below the exhaust header (this is the biggest PITA of the whole job, I think.) Here's where the wobble socket and allen head sockets go to work. The shield splits in half at two allen head bolts, reach from below. There is a bolt underneath the forward part of the shield that can only be reached when the oil filter is out. Don't be afraid to bend this shield to work it out from below. I'd also first take pics of how it's installed - once removed and bent it may not be obvious how it goes back (I tripped on that one
)2) Remove the heat shield bracket on the oil filter housing.
3) Disconnect the low-pressure power steering connection (hose clamped) at the pump - yes, the reservoir will drain out.
4) Remove the PS pump belt and remove the PS pump from its bracket - don't disconnect the high pressure fitting at the pump - just wire the pump carefully out of the way.
5) Remove the aluminum angle brace behind the PS pump
6) Disconnect the right sway bar brace at the body, rotate it pointing downward.
7) Remove the OPRV - this is the large hex head near the bottom of the housing. Pull out carefully. You don't want to bend, bump or torque this.
8) Disconnect oil lines at the external cooler (more oil drains)
At this point, you'll have as much access as you should need. The bolts holding the housing to the block can be loosened (more oil will drain). A couple at the top are NOT easy to reach (wobble extention again). After all are out, pull it sideways a bit to clear the internal oil connection. Then, wiggle and twist to get it out from below. All this just gets the thing off the car!
Post again with your progress. You don't mention how much wrenching experience you have - hope this doesn't seem intimidating
08-25-2009, 11:59 PM
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Thanks L8_apex and 931guru,
I have had my '89 S2 for 13 years and have performed all of the maintenance including clutch, belts, cam chain tensioner, lower balance shaft end cover reseal, etc.
Do I have to drop the exhaust manifolds to get clearence?
Any special procedures when resealing the housing to the block?
What is the likelyhood of getting the OPRV back in without using the alignment tool?
If I need to use the alignment tool, which one for a '89 S2?
Thanks,
David
I have had my '89 S2 for 13 years and have performed all of the maintenance including clutch, belts, cam chain tensioner, lower balance shaft end cover reseal, etc.
Do I have to drop the exhaust manifolds to get clearence?
Any special procedures when resealing the housing to the block?
What is the likelyhood of getting the OPRV back in without using the alignment tool?
If I need to use the alignment tool, which one for a '89 S2?
Thanks,
David
08-28-2009, 02:35 PM
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David -
With that much experience, I should be asking you for advice
I can see that removing the header would greatly ease the filter housing removal and reseal. Most of the threads on this say folks have done it with the headers left on (and I’ve only done it that way.).
To mount the gasket, my method worked but was not perfect. After cleaning the parts and gasket surfaces, I applied a few very thin smears of engine gasket silicone to hold the gasket plate to the housing. But it’s real easy to catch an edge while working the housing back through from below, and bend the gasket plate. Generally no harm done, it’s just fussy work in a tight spot. If I were to do it again, I might get the housing in place, then slip the gasket plate in from below.
I can share my experience with fitting the OPVR. It is possible to do it without the alignment tool, since these models have a "one-piece" version of the OPVR that can, with care, be used to check alignment. That "with care" is the whole deal.
Once the housing is remounted but not tight, insert the OPVR. As you twist it in, if there is any resistance, the OPVR has to be taken out, the housing moved (tap on one edge or other, is how I tweaked it) then the valve reinserted to test. When it threads in all the way down by finger twist with no resistance, then remove it, torque down the housing, and test again. This means trial and error and some wasted motion.
I've done this with and without the alignment tool (and threads here are divided on this point). With the tool, you don't need to be so careful - check alignment, adjust, etc. etc., then torque down with the tool left in there. Last - put in the OPVR itself. To Porsche, using the OPVR for this alignment procedure must seem risky, overadjustment the wrong way could damage the OPVR (which I'm sure is true). So – the Manual states the tool must be used. If the OPVR is damaged and/or sticks shut - stand back when you first start the engine - there will be a fountain of oil as it bursts through the gasket at the base of the oil filter.
The alignment tool for the one-piece OPVR (which S2 shares with all '87 and newer) is available at 944online.com and elsewhere. I don’t have the part no. at the moment. Here's 944online.com info:
Model: 944 S2
Category: Oil System
Item: #1000538
Oil Cooler Housing Alignment Tool
Needed to ensure proper alignment of youroil cooler housing when servicing your oil cooler
________________________________________
Price $49.95
Shipping Weight: 1.23lbs. ea.
We can normally ship out this item within 1 business day(s).
With that much experience, I should be asking you for advice
I can see that removing the header would greatly ease the filter housing removal and reseal. Most of the threads on this say folks have done it with the headers left on (and I’ve only done it that way.).
To mount the gasket, my method worked but was not perfect. After cleaning the parts and gasket surfaces, I applied a few very thin smears of engine gasket silicone to hold the gasket plate to the housing. But it’s real easy to catch an edge while working the housing back through from below, and bend the gasket plate. Generally no harm done, it’s just fussy work in a tight spot. If I were to do it again, I might get the housing in place, then slip the gasket plate in from below.
I can share my experience with fitting the OPVR. It is possible to do it without the alignment tool, since these models have a "one-piece" version of the OPVR that can, with care, be used to check alignment. That "with care" is the whole deal.
Once the housing is remounted but not tight, insert the OPVR. As you twist it in, if there is any resistance, the OPVR has to be taken out, the housing moved (tap on one edge or other, is how I tweaked it) then the valve reinserted to test. When it threads in all the way down by finger twist with no resistance, then remove it, torque down the housing, and test again. This means trial and error and some wasted motion.
I've done this with and without the alignment tool (and threads here are divided on this point). With the tool, you don't need to be so careful - check alignment, adjust, etc. etc., then torque down with the tool left in there. Last - put in the OPVR itself. To Porsche, using the OPVR for this alignment procedure must seem risky, overadjustment the wrong way could damage the OPVR (which I'm sure is true). So – the Manual states the tool must be used. If the OPVR is damaged and/or sticks shut - stand back when you first start the engine - there will be a fountain of oil as it bursts through the gasket at the base of the oil filter.
The alignment tool for the one-piece OPVR (which S2 shares with all '87 and newer) is available at 944online.com and elsewhere. I don’t have the part no. at the moment. Here's 944online.com info:
Model: 944 S2
Category: Oil System
Item: #1000538
Oil Cooler Housing Alignment Tool
Needed to ensure proper alignment of youroil cooler housing when servicing your oil cooler
________________________________________
Price $49.95
Shipping Weight: 1.23lbs. ea.
We can normally ship out this item within 1 business day(s).
08-28-2009, 02:44 PM
#6
Rainman
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David -
I'd suggest you get (if you do not have) a 1/4" pivoting socket wrench, wobble-socket wrench extension (3"), a set of small allen head sockets, and brace yourself for some fun (LOL). And, Welcome to Rennlist - you've picked a whale of a topic for a first post
I just did this job, and you have to remove or move a fair number of parts to gain enought access. Fortunately, it's easier than for our earlier 944 NA brethern with the in-block oil cooler. Also, search "oil cooler housing" and "OPRV" or "oil pressure relief valve" (yes, with the quotes) topics to get a lot of relevant prior threads.
Also unlike the earlier 944 NAs there is NO coolant routed to the S2 oil filter housing (the passages are blocked off in the housing casting). Oil passages go through the housing to the hoses that connect to the external oil cooler.
First - drain oil and remove oil filter (sorry if that's obvious).
Second - do not disconnect the oil lines at the filter housing. Do so at the external oil cooler that is just in front of the r-front wheel (BTW - remove the wheel well inner dust shroud) At the external cooler, there is a bracket of sorts that connects the two hoses to the cooler flange. Just one allen head screw holds this bracket in place.
The bigger things I'd suggest (or that you must) remove/move:
1) Remove heat shield just below the exhaust header (this is the biggest PITA of the whole job, I think.) Here's where the wobble socket and allen head sockets go to work. The shield splits in half at two allen head bolts, reach from below. There is a bolt underneath the forward part of the shield that can only be reached when the oil filter is out. Don't be afraid to bend this shield to work it out from below. I'd also first take pics of how it's installed - once removed and bent it may not be obvious how it goes back (I tripped on that one)
2) Remove the heat shield bracket on the oil filter housing.
3) Disconnect the low-pressure power steering connection (hose clamped) at the pump - yes, the reservoir will drain out.
4) Remove the PS pump belt and remove the PS pump from its bracket - don't disconnect the high pressure fitting at the pump - just wire the pump carefully out of the way.
5) Remove the aluminum angle brace behind the PS pump
6) Disconnect the right sway bar brace at the body, rotate it pointing downward.
7) Remove the OPRV - this is the large hex head near the bottom of the housing. Pull out carefully. You don't want to bend, bump or torque this.
8) Disconnect oil lines at the external cooler (more oil drains)
At this point, you'll have as much access as you should need. The bolts holding the housing to the block can be loosened (more oil will drain). A couple at the top are NOT easy to reach (wobble extention again). After all are out, pull it sideways a bit to clear the internal oil connection. Then, wiggle and twist to get it out from below. All this just gets the thing off the car!
Post again with your progress. You don't mention how much wrenching experience you have - hope this doesn't seem intimidating
I'd suggest you get (if you do not have) a 1/4" pivoting socket wrench, wobble-socket wrench extension (3"), a set of small allen head sockets, and brace yourself for some fun (LOL). And, Welcome to Rennlist - you've picked a whale of a topic for a first post
I just did this job, and you have to remove or move a fair number of parts to gain enought access. Fortunately, it's easier than for our earlier 944 NA brethern with the in-block oil cooler. Also, search "oil cooler housing" and "OPRV" or "oil pressure relief valve" (yes, with the quotes) topics to get a lot of relevant prior threads.
Also unlike the earlier 944 NAs there is NO coolant routed to the S2 oil filter housing (the passages are blocked off in the housing casting). Oil passages go through the housing to the hoses that connect to the external oil cooler.
First - drain oil and remove oil filter (sorry if that's obvious).
Second - do not disconnect the oil lines at the filter housing. Do so at the external oil cooler that is just in front of the r-front wheel (BTW - remove the wheel well inner dust shroud) At the external cooler, there is a bracket of sorts that connects the two hoses to the cooler flange. Just one allen head screw holds this bracket in place.
The bigger things I'd suggest (or that you must) remove/move:
1) Remove heat shield just below the exhaust header (this is the biggest PITA of the whole job, I think.) Here's where the wobble socket and allen head sockets go to work. The shield splits in half at two allen head bolts, reach from below. There is a bolt underneath the forward part of the shield that can only be reached when the oil filter is out. Don't be afraid to bend this shield to work it out from below. I'd also first take pics of how it's installed - once removed and bent it may not be obvious how it goes back (I tripped on that one
)2) Remove the heat shield bracket on the oil filter housing.
3) Disconnect the low-pressure power steering connection (hose clamped) at the pump - yes, the reservoir will drain out.
4) Remove the PS pump belt and remove the PS pump from its bracket - don't disconnect the high pressure fitting at the pump - just wire the pump carefully out of the way.
5) Remove the aluminum angle brace behind the PS pump
6) Disconnect the right sway bar brace at the body, rotate it pointing downward.
7) Remove the OPRV - this is the large hex head near the bottom of the housing. Pull out carefully. You don't want to bend, bump or torque this.
8) Disconnect oil lines at the external cooler (more oil drains)
At this point, you'll have as much access as you should need. The bolts holding the housing to the block can be loosened (more oil will drain). A couple at the top are NOT easy to reach (wobble extention again). After all are out, pull it sideways a bit to clear the internal oil connection. Then, wiggle and twist to get it out from below. All this just gets the thing off the car!
Post again with your progress. You don't mention how much wrenching experience you have - hope this doesn't seem intimidating
08-28-2009, 05:15 PM
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You can get at the bolts without removing the headers for both the Turbo and S2 models., Not sure how the NA headers fit in there, but with 1/4" socket set like Bob mentions chances are you will be able to do it.
I helped Bob with his and it really wasn't that difficult to do with the header in place, other than getting that heat shield out.
Cheers, Keith
I helped Bob with his and it really wasn't that difficult to do with the header in place, other than getting that heat shield out.
Cheers, Keith
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09-03-2009, 02:42 AM
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Hi Guys,
I have successfully got the cooler housing out. Thanks so much for all the advice. My 1989 S2 did leak coolant. The block does not have the coolant holes blocked off. Maybe it is an early block.
NOW my question is...... Should I put any type of sealant on the housing side of the gasket and should I put any type of sealtant on the block side of the gasket?????
Almost ready to put back together.
Thanks.
David
I have successfully got the cooler housing out. Thanks so much for all the advice. My 1989 S2 did leak coolant. The block does not have the coolant holes blocked off. Maybe it is an early block.
NOW my question is...... Should I put any type of sealant on the housing side of the gasket and should I put any type of sealtant on the block side of the gasket?????
Almost ready to put back together.
Thanks.
David
09-05-2009, 04:09 AM
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David -
Sorry I haven't looked here in a couple days, so any advice may be late.
Regarding sealant - I've heard it both ways. The rubber seals on that plate gasket seem fairly soft and thick - so should take up any gradual irregularities and seal without sealant. I installed mine without - mainly because the Porsche manual does not say to use it. If there are gashes along the seal surface, sealant makes sense. I know others have applied a thin coat. If neatly done - can't hurt.
Sorry I haven't looked here in a couple days, so any advice may be late.
Regarding sealant - I've heard it both ways. The rubber seals on that plate gasket seem fairly soft and thick - so should take up any gradual irregularities and seal without sealant. I installed mine without - mainly because the Porsche manual does not say to use it. If there are gashes along the seal surface, sealant makes sense. I know others have applied a thin coat. If neatly done - can't hurt.
09-09-2009, 11:10 PM
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Calls for Curil T, hard to come by. Awaiting the alignment tool. I installed the cooler and took off the OPRV o-ring and it screwed in with out binding, installed the o-ring and the install had resistance, so I think I will wait.
09-18-2009, 04:29 AM
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Hey David - sorry, another long lapse since I've checked this. Hope it's gone along fine and is already finished.
Curil T?? Sure - it has to be high-temp stuff, not bathroom sealant. But do we need to adhere to a brand name recommendation? I can't see why the the silicone hi-temp gasket/sealant at Checker would not be ok.
Playing it safe with the alignment tool is good. Did you test the ease of moving the spring loaded plunger inside the end of the OPRV? It should press inward with ease - no binding whatsoever.
Curil T?? Sure - it has to be high-temp stuff, not bathroom sealant. But do we need to adhere to a brand name recommendation? I can't see why the the silicone hi-temp gasket/sealant at Checker would not be ok.
Playing it safe with the alignment tool is good. Did you test the ease of moving the spring loaded plunger inside the end of the OPRV? It should press inward with ease - no binding whatsoever.
09-18-2009, 01:00 PM
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Job done successfully!! Thanks for all the help.
I took the o-ring off the OPRV and threaded it in the housing, went in fine. Torqued housing down. Removed OPRV and installed o-ring. Screwing in the OPRV with o-ring, felt resistance that seemed too high. So, I uninstalled and ordered the alignment tool. Re-installed and torqued the housing with the alignment tool, installed the OPRV and feltthe same resistance. Started her up and all is fine. No burst oil filter and normal oil pressure. I have heard that many places just use the OPRV in place as a guide rather than an alignment tool.
Thanks for all the advice.
NOW off to re-sealling the balance shaft covers and new rod bearings and oil pan gasket. eeeeeks!!
I took the o-ring off the OPRV and threaded it in the housing, went in fine. Torqued housing down. Removed OPRV and installed o-ring. Screwing in the OPRV with o-ring, felt resistance that seemed too high. So, I uninstalled and ordered the alignment tool. Re-installed and torqued the housing with the alignment tool, installed the OPRV and feltthe same resistance. Started her up and all is fine. No burst oil filter and normal oil pressure. I have heard that many places just use the OPRV in place as a guide rather than an alignment tool.
Thanks for all the advice.
NOW off to re-sealling the balance shaft covers and new rod bearings and oil pan gasket. eeeeeks!!
06-24-2013, 10:33 AM
#13
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I know old thread but...
Anyone know what the torque specs are for the 4 bolts holding on the oil filter console.
Also anyone have pictures of the famous heat shield discussed here mounted. I think that is my mystery heat shield but now need to figure out how to reinstall it.
Anyone know what the torque specs are for the 4 bolts holding on the oil filter console.
Also anyone have pictures of the famous heat shield discussed here mounted. I think that is my mystery heat shield but now need to figure out how to reinstall it.
07-27-2014, 08:36 PM
#14
Race Car
I'm doing this now on a 1988 Turbo S.
Generally, for an 8mm fastener it's somewhere between 18-23lbs.
In this case a "one grunter" in my book or as a friend says, "Guttentight".
Generally, for an 8mm fastener it's somewhere between 18-23lbs.
In this case a "one grunter" in my book or as a friend says, "Guttentight".
