my clutch job chronicle
#1
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Well I started in on this by myself today at the base hobby shop. I didn't have too much time to work so I just concentrated on doing a clean job getting the car on the lift and cleaning/inspecting the underside. I got the headers-back exhaust out which was a job in itself thanks to the rust. After that I snapped some pictures and called it a day.
Day 1 synopsis:
air tools (impact wrench especially) are the awesome.
rust sucks a lot
good wood is necessary to get 944 on lift without damaging rocker panels (thanks Mark)
Difficulties: getting the header to cat section bolts (6) off. A couple were easy to get off with the impact wrench. A couple (one in particular) couldn't be gotten to with a ratchet or the impact. I had to put a box wrench on one side braced against the chassis to keep the head from turning and then lock out my arm and pull (pressing against the outside of the front right wheel) to get the nut to move. Of course I could only move the nut a billionth of a turn each time so it took awhile.
Questions I have regarding the following pictures: Shouldn't I have an exhaust hanger after of the cat, before the bends towards the muffler?
When dropping the tranny, I was going to drop the truss with it because I'm hopefully replacing the mount too. What's the best way to do this regarding getting the fuel filter out of the way without making a huge fuel-ly mess?
What is leaking on the front of my engine? (5th pic)
What's with my new engine mounts? Someone said they were collapsed and my oil pan shouldn't be lower than my front crossmember.
Day 1 synopsis:
air tools (impact wrench especially) are the awesome.
rust sucks a lot
good wood is necessary to get 944 on lift without damaging rocker panels (thanks Mark)
Difficulties: getting the header to cat section bolts (6) off. A couple were easy to get off with the impact wrench. A couple (one in particular) couldn't be gotten to with a ratchet or the impact. I had to put a box wrench on one side braced against the chassis to keep the head from turning and then lock out my arm and pull (pressing against the outside of the front right wheel) to get the nut to move. Of course I could only move the nut a billionth of a turn each time so it took awhile.
Questions I have regarding the following pictures: Shouldn't I have an exhaust hanger after of the cat, before the bends towards the muffler?
When dropping the tranny, I was going to drop the truss with it because I'm hopefully replacing the mount too. What's the best way to do this regarding getting the fuel filter out of the way without making a huge fuel-ly mess?
What is leaking on the front of my engine? (5th pic)
What's with my new engine mounts? Someone said they were collapsed and my oil pan shouldn't be lower than my front crossmember.
#2
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I replaced my fuel filter and the Clarks Garage write up says to clamp the hose at the inlet side (I used vice grips with lots of padding on the jaws). There was still plenty o' fuel dripping but not much.
#4
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In the 4th photo it looks like you lower rear balance shaft seal is toast and has been leaking for quite awhile. To replace the seal is a long job in itself. Many people just clean the area well and glop on some Curil sealant or any flexible oil resistant product and it seems to work. The best way to tell if the motor mounts are collapsed is to measure them. Were they the cheapo ones or the expensive ones? They look OK though compared to a new set I have sitting on the shelf and your pan does hang lower than the X-member so maybe they are bad.
Last edited by KuHL 951; 08-03-2009 at 11:56 PM.
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yeah that one is original. I know because it is impossible to take it off to clean it...it is 21year welded on.
Well when I first got the car I had all the front engine seals and belts done and that was only 3 years ago. I think I'm going to go back to dino oils and clean up all the oil that's on there now and see what still leaks.
Well when I first got the car I had all the front engine seals and belts done and that was only 3 years ago. I think I'm going to go back to dino oils and clean up all the oil that's on there now and see what still leaks.
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#9
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Hey ash, a Wobble socket will take those header bolts off in about 2 minutes ask how i know...
As for the transmission, remove the trans without that bracket, then pull the bracket, trust me its easier.
Good luck...
Mark
As for the transmission, remove the trans without that bracket, then pull the bracket, trust me its easier.
Good luck...
Mark
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Day 2:
Got one of the speed/ref sensors (don't know which one) out today and also got the shifter linkage undone from both ends. Sadly that was about it. Pictures: the perpetrator, what it did to me (that leaking red fluid is my blood), and the mustang dependent suspension LOL next to me.
Got one of the speed/ref sensors (don't know which one) out today and also got the shifter linkage undone from both ends. Sadly that was about it. Pictures: the perpetrator, what it did to me (that leaking red fluid is my blood), and the mustang dependent suspension LOL next to me.
Last edited by knfeparty; 08-05-2009 at 07:47 AM.
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You can drop the tranny with the crossmember attached. Just remove the clamp for the fuel filter completely, then you can drop and slide it away from the lines as you are lowering the transaxle. Or just drop the tranny, then unbolt the crossmember and fuel filter clamp and out of the way.....
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the stuck sensor slid out enough to get the block off. The head of the sensor was spinning around without the metal sensor actually spinning itself though...so that is questionable. It's time to start dropping the tranny and all that jazz. We'll see...Jackie has been a big help though. She also has apparently figured out how to post on Rennlist with my account.