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Squeek from inside the bellhousing

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Old 07-09-2009, 10:52 PM
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probuild521
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Default Squeek from inside the bellhousing

im converting a 1987 924s to electric, i am reusing the bell housing/clutch. i recently hooked it up to my electric motor and when it spins it creates a fairly loud squeak coming from inside the bell housing. i think it may be caused by the lack of grease where the clutch assembly comes in contact either the housing itself but i am not sure and it is currently all together. it only does it for aboue 20-25degrees of the rotation and the rest of the rotation is fine (when spinning by hand) any ideas how how to fix this easily without ripping everything apart again?
here are a couple pictures of the assembly
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Old 07-10-2009, 01:40 AM
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V2Rocket
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now this is just awesome

wheres the extra batteries?
Old 07-10-2009, 02:40 AM
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probuild521
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there are a total of 12 batteries 8 where the rear seat was as shown in the picture below(they will be covered with wood/carpet and should look fairly stockish) and four more under the hood. just now trying to work out the kinks and get it all finished wired (biggest issue is this squeek noise im having)

i made a quick video of what the issue is
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7k9swi3XQiU



here are all the pictures i have so far

http://picasaweb.google.com/sean.kleinschmidt

under the hood


in the back

Old 07-10-2009, 08:51 AM
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apierce918
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are you using all the pieces in the stock assembly? it seems too high pitch for bearings, but there would only be two the pilot and TO bearing. but my only advice for diagnosing is to disassemble it one piece at a time and keep turning until the squeak is gone
Old 07-10-2009, 11:15 AM
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probuild521
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yeah its all the stock parts in terms of that assembly, so then what could it be just something slightly out of alignment rubbing?
Old 07-10-2009, 11:32 AM
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944Ross
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Could it be the little set screw on the rim of the flywheel that the ref sensor uses?
Old 07-10-2009, 11:48 AM
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KuHL 951
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From your vid it sounds more like a rubbing sound but it's hard to tell. Did you use stock TT shaft or was it trimmed also? It might just be the TT shaft had some weight on it and is slightly out of round or alignment making it tight between two of the bearings. From the pics it looks like your pilot bearing is installed in the flywheel since there's no crank anymore and another for the motor shaft. If it is an alignment issue I can't see that one bearing lasting too long. Hopefully that rubber centered clutch disc is up to the task, that's a weak link in the whole set-up IMO.

Very nice work you've done. It reminds me of another 944 w/ electric conversion.
Electric 944
Old 07-10-2009, 11:52 AM
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V2Rocket
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every day i think how the 944 needs more torque to be more driveable...


solved that problem..
Old 07-10-2009, 02:13 PM
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944Ross
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Originally Posted by KuHL 951
....Hopefully that rubber centered clutch disc is up to the task, that's a weak link in the whole set-up IMO.

....
...and an electric motor has virtually 100% of rated torque available at 0 RPM! I would shuck it ASAP! There's probably no reason to use a spring center, maybe use the automatic's coupling disc? Will the trans be shifted on this car or will it run in one gear all the time?
Old 07-10-2009, 02:23 PM
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probuild521
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the trannys will still be shiftable with the clutch fully working.
Old 07-10-2009, 02:26 PM
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83 944
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that is so COOL first my incounter with LP 944 and now this crazyyy good luck with everything looks awersome
Old 07-10-2009, 04:01 PM
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V2Rocket
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whats the torque rating on that motor? are you going to chop the voltage?
Old 07-10-2009, 05:33 PM
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Hmm, very interesting. You don't need the starter ring anymore if you went electric. Also the flywheel isn't really needed except that you're still using it as a clutch engagement. You could lighten it since you don't need the flywheel effect. Or even make one out of aluminum.

You also might want to secure those batteries better in the back seat. Wouldn't want to get hit by one of those in an accident.
Old 07-10-2009, 10:09 PM
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V2Rocket
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Originally Posted by StoogeMoe
Hmm, very interesting. You don't need the starter ring anymore if you went electric. Also the flywheel isn't really needed except that you're still using it as a clutch engagement. You could lighten it since you don't need the flywheel effect. Or even make one out of aluminum.

You also might want to secure those batteries better in the back seat. Wouldn't want to get hit by one of those in an accident.
Electric motors like having flywheels if they are to be continuous duty, the mass is not so important as it is for a ICE but to have some rotational inertia makes the work easier.

However the ring gear is not necessary unless you have somehow figured out how to use that for RPM without the DME
Old 07-10-2009, 10:42 PM
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KuHL 951
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Again, rethink that rubber centered clutch disc. An electric motor will shear it in no time given the instant torque unless you baby it. Since everything is already bolted up I realize that you don't want to 'go back in' but being disabled on the side of the road isn't a really great option either. The limp home tabs 'might' get you home but modulating the power of the motor makes it more difficult than with a gas engine. Having a conventional clutch with electric power is a bit odd from the start.

You are good machinist though and I think it's very cool what you are trying to do!


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