MSD Blaster Coil Upgrade?
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The stock coil just went out on my 86 951 (actually found that the wire connector had corroded and welded itslf to the inside of the HT lead socket). Is the MSD Blaster coil series a worthwhile upgrade? Already picked up a set of 8mm performance wires.
Thanks,
Jon
Thanks,
Jon
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Sure, I think so - the whole MSD 6-series ignition system works great for me.
<a href="http://www.tech-session.com/Paragon/Tech/944_msd_install.htm" target="_blank">MSD Ignition and Coil Installation - 944</a>
Good Luck!
<a href="http://www.tech-session.com/Paragon/Tech/944_msd_install.htm" target="_blank">MSD Ignition and Coil Installation - 944</a>
Good Luck!
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Thanks Skip. Kinda funny - I just got the wires from you guys (arrived today) and then you're the one that responds to my post.
I didn't see the MSD unit on your catolog site. Where is it? The set up you describe in the tech section is exactly the setup I ran on my BMW2002 autocrosser for years. Worked REALLY well.
-Jon
I didn't see the MSD unit on your catolog site. Where is it? The set up you describe in the tech section is exactly the setup I ran on my BMW2002 autocrosser for years. Worked REALLY well.
-Jon
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Skip, I'm finally getting around to this myself and went back to take another look at your tech-session. 2 questions,
Where did the vacuum canister get relocated to?
I replaced my cap, rotor, plugs and wires a year ago, less than 5000 miles on 'em. Do I need to go new, or are they still new enough?
TIA
Where did the vacuum canister get relocated to?
I replaced my cap, rotor, plugs and wires a year ago, less than 5000 miles on 'em. Do I need to go new, or are they still new enough?
TIA
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Just got the MSD 6AL today, still need to get a coil. Anyone have input on the questions above? Also is it posible to fit the MSD box up behind the dash anywhere?
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[quote]Originally posted by Dave:
<strong>Skip, I'm finally getting around to this myself and went back to take another look at your tech-session. 2 questions,
Where did the vacuum canister get relocated to?<hr></blockquote></strong>
I put mine in place of the cruise control motor - most folks can't do this. Here's a pic:
![](http://www.tech-session.com/Paragon/Tech/Tech_images/msd_012.jpg)
[quote]<strong>I replaced my cap, rotor, plugs and wires a year ago, less than 5000 miles on 'em. Do I need to go new, or are they still new enough?
TIA</strong><hr></blockquote>
Probably - but, it's not really a matter of them being new, as it is about the added shielding. You're trying to protect the rest of the engine from RFI/EMI that might escape with the marked increase in voltage.
MSD insisted there was valid reason to upgrade to 8mm or more shielding on plug wires - though, it's possible that is more marketing than truth - since they do market 8.5mm wires.
Skip
<strong>Skip, I'm finally getting around to this myself and went back to take another look at your tech-session. 2 questions,
Where did the vacuum canister get relocated to?<hr></blockquote></strong>
I put mine in place of the cruise control motor - most folks can't do this. Here's a pic:
![](http://www.tech-session.com/Paragon/Tech/Tech_images/msd_012.jpg)
[quote]<strong>I replaced my cap, rotor, plugs and wires a year ago, less than 5000 miles on 'em. Do I need to go new, or are they still new enough?
TIA</strong><hr></blockquote>
Probably - but, it's not really a matter of them being new, as it is about the added shielding. You're trying to protect the rest of the engine from RFI/EMI that might escape with the marked increase in voltage.
MSD insisted there was valid reason to upgrade to 8mm or more shielding on plug wires - though, it's possible that is more marketing than truth - since they do market 8.5mm wires.
Skip
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[quote]Originally posted by Dave:
<strong>Also is it posible to fit the MSD box up behind the dash anywhere?</strong><hr></blockquote>
Surely you can, but you want to keep the lines feeding the coil as short as possible - reduces lag of spark signal.
From talking to many others on this, the best place is next to the battery, or in the nose (under the header panel).
Skip
<strong>Also is it posible to fit the MSD box up behind the dash anywhere?</strong><hr></blockquote>
Surely you can, but you want to keep the lines feeding the coil as short as possible - reduces lag of spark signal.
From talking to many others on this, the best place is next to the battery, or in the nose (under the header panel).
Skip
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[quote]Originally posted by Dave:
<strong>Bump! Also, does this negate the need for the overpriced wire sets? As in, can big fat performamce wires that don't cost a couple hundred bucks be used?</strong><hr></blockquote>
The sets you refer are the proper wires and BERU ends - as supplied and spec'd by Porsche. Not all things can be improved upon for less money... sometimes they did do the right thing
There's a bit of info in the archives about this difference between BERU-type plug sets and the alternatives - some very good points are made, even specifically towards MSD/Crane/Accel applications.
Skip
<strong>Bump! Also, does this negate the need for the overpriced wire sets? As in, can big fat performamce wires that don't cost a couple hundred bucks be used?</strong><hr></blockquote>
The sets you refer are the proper wires and BERU ends - as supplied and spec'd by Porsche. Not all things can be improved upon for less money... sometimes they did do the right thing
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
There's a bit of info in the archives about this difference between BERU-type plug sets and the alternatives - some very good points are made, even specifically towards MSD/Crane/Accel applications.
Skip
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Hey Skip I have a question too about the MSD ignition. I'm switching over from Nology to MSD and I was wondering...considering where you mounted the box and the evaporator, I have cruise control where you put yours at, is there another area where to bolt the 6A puppy up to?
I was thinking of making my own bracket that attaches to the battery strap and bends upward to hold the box since I have some spare sheets of aluminum.
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[quote]Originally posted by EuroSpec944:
<strong>Hey Skip I have a question too about the MSD ignition. I'm switching over from Nology to MSD and I was wondering...considering where you mounted the box and the evaporator, I have cruise control where you put yours at, is there another area where to bolt the 6A puppy up to?
I was thinking of making my own bracket that attaches to the battery strap and bends upward to hold the box since I have some spare sheets of aluminum.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Once you start sizing up the area on that side of the engine compartment you'll soon see there is no real good place. As I said, the closer to the coil the better. You don't want it near the heat of the exhaust manifold/header either. I chose the battery compartment for its weather protection and relative stability (resitant to vibration - moreso than the front of the car) The area in the front under the header panel is completely empty on the 8v-na cars, so that's an okay place also. I think remoting the vacuum cannister would be much more favorable than the MSD unit - unless you can occupy that space with both?
Skip
<strong>Hey Skip I have a question too about the MSD ignition. I'm switching over from Nology to MSD and I was wondering...considering where you mounted the box and the evaporator, I have cruise control where you put yours at, is there another area where to bolt the 6A puppy up to?
![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
Once you start sizing up the area on that side of the engine compartment you'll soon see there is no real good place. As I said, the closer to the coil the better. You don't want it near the heat of the exhaust manifold/header either. I chose the battery compartment for its weather protection and relative stability (resitant to vibration - moreso than the front of the car) The area in the front under the header panel is completely empty on the 8v-na cars, so that's an okay place also. I think remoting the vacuum cannister would be much more favorable than the MSD unit - unless you can occupy that space with both?
Skip
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Thanks Skip!
I don't use the cruise control so maybe that spot will work for me. The under dash location I was thinking of is the area behind the glove box (right under the battery) so I don't think there would be much of a difference in wire length. Alas, that spot is smaller than I thought, I doubt the unit will fit. The nose panel may work, but I need access to change the rev-limit. I got the 6AL since my chip has no rev-limit and I'm thinking of using 6500 rpm on the street and 6900 for autox.
I checked the archives on the wires and am now more confused than ever. Our stock ignition systems were designed for the uniform impedance of the Beru ends*, but the MSD unit is a major change from the stock technology. Is the stock (Beru) type of wire still appropriate (SP?), or would MDS's Heli-core or 8.5mm Super Conductor wires (starting @ $49) work better with the new set-up?
* Which I still consider overpriced, the solid core wire is less expensive than similar quality helically wound wire, but 4 Beru ends add $100+ to the price. You should get one heck of a resistor/load for $25!
I don't use the cruise control so maybe that spot will work for me. The under dash location I was thinking of is the area behind the glove box (right under the battery) so I don't think there would be much of a difference in wire length. Alas, that spot is smaller than I thought, I doubt the unit will fit. The nose panel may work, but I need access to change the rev-limit. I got the 6AL since my chip has no rev-limit and I'm thinking of using 6500 rpm on the street and 6900 for autox.
I checked the archives on the wires and am now more confused than ever. Our stock ignition systems were designed for the uniform impedance of the Beru ends*, but the MSD unit is a major change from the stock technology. Is the stock (Beru) type of wire still appropriate (SP?), or would MDS's Heli-core or 8.5mm Super Conductor wires (starting @ $49) work better with the new set-up?
* Which I still consider overpriced, the solid core wire is less expensive than similar quality helically wound wire, but 4 Beru ends add $100+ to the price. You should get one heck of a resistor/load for $25!