The resistance (ohm) reading are done with the car off, key off.

1.) How could you check the secondaries with the car running? It can't run with the center conductor disconnected.

2.) Your car wouldn't be running with .8V DC to anything at the coil. It should be battery/alternator voltage (13.8or 14.something). I'm afraid you aren't taking the readings properly.

 

No, I got .8 volts on the primaries (meter connected to 2 small posts). Youmentioned that the car cant run with center conducter diconnected- I did that and thought I had a whole new problem when I first went out and tried to start the car. When I saw that I said "Wow, wow, how could I have missed that?"

When I do my tests, my meter is set correctly, when I get ohms, myu meter is set to ohms, and when I got volts, my meter was set to DC volts. I have a Digital Fluke that reads up to 600 AC volts.

EDIT:
Opps. Im stupid. When I was checking the voltage, I did not have the black wire for my meter on the battery. I get 10.1 to the coil with the key "ON" position. And I am getting 11.1 volts when car is running. I get 11.7 volts to the injecters, with black meter on battery and one on the injecters.

When HOT- With key "ON" 9.7 to the coil and at injectors, and the battery 12.2

 

I was not getting a tach bounce when the car was hot. Car started right up at first, waited a few minuets, til the temp got close to mid way, shut her down, and re-started, took a few seconds, but started. Shut her down about a minuet later, and she didnt start- and no tach bounce when I tried to start her a few more times. I put the "Y"jumper in afetr it wouldnt start and that didnt help anything.

I did the voltage check/ test on the coil and injectoers because I screwed up before.
Coil
"ON"- .7ohms from 2 small posts. 9.3 volts
running- 9.9-10.4 it started at 9.9 then rose steady at 10.4 after 5 seconds of testing
HOT/no start- 10.2 volts .7 ohms
I checked the voltage at the coil after I shut her off after she ran for 10 mins and I got 10.7 volts
Cylinder injecter plug #1
"key ON"- 10 volts 4.9 ohms
running- 11.7 volts
HOT/ no start key "ON"- 10.3 volts 7.6 ohms
Cylinder injecter plug #2
"key ON"- 9.9 volts 4.9 ohms
running- 11.4 volts
HOT/ no start key "ON"- 10.2 volts 7.7 ohms ohms
Cylinder injecter plug #3
"key ON"- 10 volts 4.9 ohms
running- 11.6 volts
HOT/ no start key "ON"- 10.3 volts 7.5 ohms
Cylinder injecter plug #4
"key ON"- 10 volts 4.9 ohms
running- 11.5
HOT/ no start key "ON"- 10.3 volts 7 ohms

 

How do you go about testing the DME? I think that I saw it in Clarks,but cant remeber what it is, I will check there also. I will tets the sensors when cold and when HOT/ no-start conditoon and see if they get the same ohms. I tested my starter after I couldnt get it into a no-start- it tetsed BAD. Afew days ago, I had it tested before I started the car- GOOD- installed it and got my car to HOT/ no start condition. Yesterday, I thought I would give it another go, and test it when the car was HOT, it failed like a rock, didnt even try and spinn when tested HOT.

 

I would forget about the coil and get back to looking at the s/r sensors and plugs. The gap would be my first area to look at.

 

I had a similar hot or warm start problem, Car would start cold everytime like a champ. It would drive very well and then when warm, would not start back up. After 20 minute cool down or there about, it fired right up. PO replaced both speed/ref sensors just before I bought it. If I drove long enough 30 mins or so, it cut out and died on me, tacho went dead....obvious sensor or DME problem?

So here is what I did.

1. installed fuel pressure gauge and I noticed that it dropped quickly after stopping engine. did not meet Clark's leak down specs. I was contemplating changing the valve down at the tank becuase I did not have a lot of smoke when starting (injector) and I did not see any fuel coming out of the FPR. -Until I unplugged vacuum hose on FPR when running the engine, then a tiny amount of fuel came out. So replaced FPR, but that did not fix my hot start or intermittent cutting out. (but fuel pressure is fine, no leak-back)
2. installed new plugs, rotor, house, coild and wires in the ignition system. idles better but same hot start problem.
3, wiggeling the sensor wires to reproduce the problem, yanking and pulling, -nothing....
4. Wiggeling the sensor wires when hot and cables were soft and pliable, AND THEN engine died. It took me quite some wiggeling, numerous Attempts to make the wiggeling right. when I knew HOW to bend the sensor cable I could make it stop anytime when cable was warm. Cold cables did not give me the cut-out.

Also did Clark's Y-cable test for the DME relay which did not solve problem.
So message is: Wiggeling the sensor cables is not that easy unless they are really bad and glitch at the mere touch. Right little bend direction at the right part of the cable did it in this particular case.

 

Wondering if thekidd managed to resolve the issue...having very similar problem at my end. Did realise it's a ten year plus old chain!

 

managed to resolve; it was the fuel check valve. it was fixed too tightly.