944Ross

'84 NA -- doesn't get any easier to do a clutch, but I'm stuck at removing the front bellhousing, I can't get a wrench on the upper driver's side bolt. There's a plastic clip holding the brake lines right in front of it, that is right where the breaker bar needs to be.

Short of removing the brake lines, or the clip, it appears if I pry the engine downwards, I can get a shot at it. The engine is perfectly balanced on the motor mounts, I can pry it down 1/2" maybe. Appears the motor mounts themsolves are the only thing resisting. Will it hurt them to do that?

Are there any other tricks to getting it? Naturally the bolt is in there really tight, really needs an impact to break it free.

The plastic clip appears to be on a metal post, is it a stud welded to the pan?

Any help appreciated! It's real frustrating to be this close!

KuHL 951

I remember buying a shallow head swivel/socket from Sears for that bolt and getting it off from the top. When I reassembled I found out it was easier to just loosen the X-member bolts and let the engine hang a bit for more clearance.

Shallow Swivel/Sockets

944Ross

I was going to head over to Sears this morning to see my options. "Glad" to hear it isn't just my car! I can't imagine getting it from above, you must have had the intake off? But I do need a 6-pt shallow socket with some flex, so the set in your link looks to be the ticket. Dropping the X-member with all the hoses on is OK? Thanks!

KuHL 951

I didn't really drop the X-member. Just loosen the bolts at the frame and let it down some with a hoist or place a floor jack and plywood support under the oil pan. You don't need much. I may be wrong about getting it from above and maybe thinking of the sensor bracket. There were so many 'pleasant' moments on my 83 clutch job I lost count.

Mighty Shilling

yeah that one is a b*tch to get to.

944Ross

Yeah, the sensor bolts were a treat. Then getting the sensors out out of their holes after 25 yrs, I don't want to tell you how I got them out! Was there really no way they could have put them down on the lower half of the bellhousing?? Or put a bump in the firewall to give some clearance? I was tempted to cut my heater valve hoses.

I can't wait to get at the pressure plate and flywheel spline bolts...

MichelleJD

There is a special place in hell reserved for the engineers that placed that bolt!

Mighty Shilling

sensor bolts? hard? you must have big hands...

Van

I use a Craftsman 17mm universal socket (3/8" drive) with a really long (like 30") extension.

I think I've also used a flex-head gear wrench.

944Ross

I'm sure it depends how much stuff you want to take off to make it easy. On my car at least, the heater control valve and its cable and hoses are right on top of them, and the speed sensor (rear one) is blocked by the A/C lines and wiring bundle if you try to get an extension bar with U-joint down thru there. There is absolutely no way to get at the sensor mounting bracket bolts, the photo on Clark's of adjusting it is a total joke. (engine out)

The guy that routed the brake lines must not have talked to the guy that placed the bolt!

944Ross

My bolt is a 19mm, a 17mm would be good with regular socket and breaker bar (just barely).

Mighty Shilling

ah. got ya. it's an N/A thing I guess. on my turbo, I just reached in there and unbolted/removed them.

alex

This is the answer, it made my 2nd clutch job much easier.

GrantM

Try raising the front of the engine slightly.

alex

yep, that too-