Universal O2 sensor...solder or crimp
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Three Wheelin'
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I prefer to solder and heat srink all connections but I have heard that the O2 sensors 'breathe' through the wires and to use butt splices.
Which is correct?
Thanks
Which is correct?
Thanks
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Originally posted by awilson40:
<strong>I prefer to solder and heat srink all connections but I have heard that the O2 sensors 'breathe' through the wires and to use butt splices.
Which is correct?
Thanks</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">I have never heard that one. I generally solder all of mine.
<strong>I prefer to solder and heat srink all connections but I have heard that the O2 sensors 'breathe' through the wires and to use butt splices.
Which is correct?
Thanks</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">I have never heard that one. I generally solder all of mine.
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I picked up a Bosch 13913 Sensor today...It has 3 short wires and a plastic connector. I just cut the connector off and splice to the factory connector, right?
Any shielding to worry about??
Any shielding to worry about??
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A while back a rennlister close to the Bosch company warned of using both solder and simple butt splices with universal O2 sensors. While any measureable data was not detailed, it was generally considered best to use the kit offered and recommended by Bosch. For your application, this would be Bosch kit 15725 (same sensor as 13913, but with a universal wiring kit). Many still choose to butt splice or solder, and I personally have not witnessed a problem caused by these methods - it may be splitting hairs, but we now offer the option. I still prefer chewing gum, duct tape, and spit.
Good Luck!
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Good Luck!
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I have replaced O2 sensors in the past by soldering and had never heard of it causing a problem until I read that post. Advance Auto had the 13913 in stock for $36. and had to order the 15725 for $68. Thats why I opted for the 13913, I really wonder how soldering or crimping can cause a problem.
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I would not recommend using solder & heat shrink wrap. This makes an air tight seal trapping air in the sensor which can't be re-freshed. Bosch's web-site says O2 sensors need to replenish their reference air. The air travels thru the wiring harness. You'd be better off using crimp connectors. They won't seal out the fresh air but will allow dirt and moisture to corrode your connection. The best is to get the universal connector which allows the fresh air to flow in & out.
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Tom beat me to the punch, but there's more in the archives from "zucker", our resident Bosch O2 sensor guru. Seek out his prose here:
<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=15;t=006207;p=1" target="_blank">O2 sensor info from days gone by...</a>
Here's some nuggets from zucker:
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Also, it is important to use the unversal connector system. Do not use butt connectors when hooking these things up. The sensor must replenish the reference air inside in-order to create the oxygen gradients necessary for voltage generation. The sensor acts as a battery in a rich gas environment(long story). The reference air is replenished through the wire harness.</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">And, even more...:
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">As far as air replenishment goes, inside the ceramic(thimble shape)is a chamber of reference air(ambient air) and a platinum conductor. During rich operation there is an abscence of air in the exhaust stream. This creates an oxygen gradient across the ceramic. On the outside of the ceramic is another platinum conductor(power grid - Bosch patent)the gradient causes ionic conductivity across the zirconia(ceramic).If the sensor was in ambient air and was at operating temperature the voltage output would be approx. 0 volts.</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Skip [crimped]
<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=15;t=006207;p=1" target="_blank">O2 sensor info from days gone by...</a>
Here's some nuggets from zucker:
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Also, it is important to use the unversal connector system. Do not use butt connectors when hooking these things up. The sensor must replenish the reference air inside in-order to create the oxygen gradients necessary for voltage generation. The sensor acts as a battery in a rich gas environment(long story). The reference air is replenished through the wire harness.</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">And, even more...:
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">As far as air replenishment goes, inside the ceramic(thimble shape)is a chamber of reference air(ambient air) and a platinum conductor. During rich operation there is an abscence of air in the exhaust stream. This creates an oxygen gradient across the ceramic. On the outside of the ceramic is another platinum conductor(power grid - Bosch patent)the gradient causes ionic conductivity across the zirconia(ceramic).If the sensor was in ambient air and was at operating temperature the voltage output would be approx. 0 volts.</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Skip [crimped]