pjburges

I cracked the block on my 944 N/A 8V. Looking for a new motor of any type: 951, 944S, 944S2, 968, 924 Turbo, LT1, LS1, Audi 20V whatever you have....
EDITED

If its not the 944 8V N/A motor, Im going to need the electrical bundle and brain as well as possibly the fuel rail depending on the motor.
I might be open to buying just an N/A 8V short block in the interests of saving money, otherwise Im looking to upgrade to something with a little more HP.

Thanks everyone!

JohnKoaWood

Why not look for a N/A with a blown headgasket or broken timing belt... might be able to get it for less than the cost of the block alone...

marky522

PM sent/

Mike951

I have a shortblock from an early n/a

turbobrat930

Shoot, I have a complete running 8v N/A with wiring harness and all accessories, clutch, bellhousing, etc... $500.00

Legoland951

Got a complete motor for either early or late running wrecked car for $400 with intake, injectors, rail, etc. If you want just the short block you can take your pick for $200.

pjburges

Ok Lego- Ill keep that short block in mind. 200 plus the 150 in headgasket parts Ive already got looks to be the cheap way out of this. Ive already torn down the motor looking for the problem, so the shortblock is a logical option.

On another note a Question:
I know swapping to a 944S motor from an 8V would require the bundle/brain to the 944S, the fuel rail, intake and throttle body, and the exhaust header, but is this all? Is there a difference in the flywheel or clutch? Can I re-use the water pump off my 8V as its but a few months old...?

Considering a running S motor but it is pricey compared to that 200 dollar shortblock....

Legoland951

I also have a S short block complete. I have the intake, exhaust, and misc parts because the belt broke before I got the car. I will also sell all for $200 as I need to clear my garage.

pjburges

Cool lego, ill keep that in mind.

If I want to replace a piston, but not a ring, can I slip the old ring on a new (different) piston and re-install in the bore? I would only want to do this to minimize the change in bore wear, or is it ok to just put a new ring in there without any honing on the bore?

Legoland951

Make sure the tolerance group is the same for the new pistons going in whenever you do a swap. I am not sure if swaping used rings or pistons without honing is a great idea though.

DarylJ

Honing Alusil? I don't think so.

Legoland951

There are extensive write ups. Alusil is not a liner. Here is a quote from Danno in one of the old threads explaining honing and sleeving:

"First of all, the stock bores are already Alusil. It would make no sense to over bore out the Alusil cylinders and press in a Alusil liner (unless to repair damage). The entire block and cylinders on our engines are made of Alusil, a hypereutectic aluminium alloy. This means there's more silicon than can be dissolved in aluminium in the casting process. Upon cooling the extra silicon percipitates out as crystals. Our engines are actually a MMC.

The 4th stage lapping process uses find abrasives to wear away the aluminium between these silicon crystals. This leaves a hard wear-resistant surface. This surface is porous and rough on a microscopic level, thus requiring the use of iron-coated pistons to resist galling and wear.

The only time you'd need to worry about this process is if you have cylinder-wear that's out of spec. Such as ovalized or tapered cylinders. In which case, you can bore out the cylinders and 1st oversize pistons (about U$1800 a set). Most people find it more economical to overbore and install iron or steel liners and use cheaper standard pistons (U$500-750 a set).

If you do go with this process, you have to find a shop that can do it. The press-fit of the liner to cylinder is highly critical and done at elevated temperatures. The cylinders have to be bored to a dimension just slightly smaller than the OD of the liners. The exact amount depends upon the material and thickness of the liner. I've had a block prepared with steel liners crack all the way through the #4 cylinder and liner in less than 4000 miles. This was due to them not boring out each cylinder specifically for the liner that's going in. They just bored all the cylinders to the same dimensions and pressed the liners in. The cylinder#4 happened to get the largest liner and it stressed the cylinder just a little too much. After 4000 miles, it cracked and that was it.

Also critical after installing the liners is to have it align-bored to be centered over the crank-journal. It should be bored to fit each individual piston. A taper bore works best that has minimum clearances up top that relaxes as it goes down to reduce stress and wear on the rings. Use the dimensions in the manual for piston clearance and how much material to remove in each of the 4 steps. This requires a Sunnen hone for the required precision."

Legoland951

This is the special 10-bit diamond hone that 928 motorsports use. Common honing bits are 6 or 8-bit units. This 10-bit unit will produce a bore that is more perfectly cylindrical than others.

DarylJ

Where do they say that they can hone alusil? I mean...without re-coating with Nikasil, which isn't what someone would infer from saying that "you can hone alusil." What 928 Motorsports is offering is not "honing" per se, it's cylinder repair. No where do I know of, or can I see on their site or anywhere else on some quick Internet searches, has anyone claimed to successfully hone alusil (full stop). If you hone it, you're re-coating with Nikasil (or whatever 928 Motorsports calls their process) or sleeving.

Or maybe I just didn't get what you were trying to say in those last 2 posts.

Legoland951

I may be mistaken about boring instead of honing...