HELP!! CLUTCH!!
#1
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Ok, so i went out to the garage to pull the porsche out for a drive. Its been in the garage since sunday. And the weather has been very hot. So i get in the car and step on the clutch and the pedal STAYS DOWN! what does that mean? I looked under the car and saw a puddle of hydraulic fluid. I checked the reservoir in the engine bay and there was fluid in there. I know that the brakes and clutch share the same fluid and i tested the brakes by stepping on them with the car and they feel normal.
What has happend here? Did i crack the clutch master cylinder or one of the hydraulic lines? Its late now and very hot and i dont want to jack up the car until tomorrow (thank god its a day off)- or does this mean that my clutch is gone? Ive had the car for about a year and dont know the history of the clutch. It always drove and shifted fine and i never had a problem with the clutch before. Assuming that it has the original clutch with the rubber center, is it possible that the rubber has broken off and this is causing the problem?? PLease help quick!!!
What has happend here? Did i crack the clutch master cylinder or one of the hydraulic lines? Its late now and very hot and i dont want to jack up the car until tomorrow (thank god its a day off)- or does this mean that my clutch is gone? Ive had the car for about a year and dont know the history of the clutch. It always drove and shifted fine and i never had a problem with the clutch before. Assuming that it has the original clutch with the rubber center, is it possible that the rubber has broken off and this is causing the problem?? PLease help quick!!!
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Usually the clutch pedal on the floor is a sign of the Master Cylinder going bad - or is it the Slave. At any rate, I went ahead and replaced both the Salve and Master when mine went out. I doubt if it's the clutch.
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when my clutch went out my pedal still worked fine. well i mean not good, but it didnt stay down. thats all i have. i dont know what might be wrong but i strongly doubt the rubber center is shot.
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How difficult is it to replace the master/slave cylinder? does it require the removal of the entire trans and torque tube like a typical clutch removal? Or is it simpler than that? How much would these items cost and are there instructions anywhere on how to do this. Also, what might have caused this? the car was sitting for 3 days in the garage and it drove fine the last time i drove it. Could extreme heat cause it? Any other info is much appreciated <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" />
#5
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If you've got fluid under the car, change the slave cylinder.
The two systems Do share the same resevoir, but the feed hose to the clutch master cylinder is at a level on the side of the plastic housing that will not allow all of the fluid to leak out and affect the brakes.
Just because the slave is faulty doesn't mean you need to change both though, as is the normal practice, like "one's bound to fail soon after"..
On a side note:
(and I've always got one, eh...
)
Does anyone else find it strange that the terminology "master" and "slave", coined years ago, BTW, is still allowed to be used in this "pollitically correct society" of today.
Even the parts functions, "master"=commands, slave=carrier out of the command to release the clutch.....
Does this sound crazy, or did this one just slip by.....?
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
The two systems Do share the same resevoir, but the feed hose to the clutch master cylinder is at a level on the side of the plastic housing that will not allow all of the fluid to leak out and affect the brakes.
Just because the slave is faulty doesn't mean you need to change both though, as is the normal practice, like "one's bound to fail soon after"..
On a side note:
(and I've always got one, eh...
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Does anyone else find it strange that the terminology "master" and "slave", coined years ago, BTW, is still allowed to be used in this "pollitically correct society" of today.
Even the parts functions, "master"=commands, slave=carrier out of the command to release the clutch.....
Does this sound crazy, or did this one just slip by.....?
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
#6
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Sajid
One tip for you after you make the slave cylinder repair, to preserve the life that's left in your rubber centered disc.....
ALWAYS set the parking brake when parking the car, and as a good practice either shift the tranny into neutral then back into gear (for safety) or depress the clutch pedal once after killing the engine. This will relieve the tension on the rubber center.
NEVER let the weight of the car's willingness to roll while parking be held back by the rubber's resistance...
Never hold a clutch pedal down while waiting at a red light or intersection when you are waiting on traffic, on any manual equipped car.
The pressure plate's diaphram tension and throw-out bearing have a life expectantcy, so make life as easy as possible on these items.
First gear is always chosen from a stop to go foreward, and the constant selection of this gear is used more than any other gear selection, the task for a selection to first after pressing the clutch pedal, is to stop ALL internal gears from spinning allowing the sleeve to engage the gear.
Split up this task, by selecting second, then first (in one motion) from a stop thus making the 1st synchro life last twice as long.
Reverse is non-sychronized on these gearboxes, meaning it has no "brake) ring to match the speed of the mainshaft reverse, to the corresponding countershaft reverse gear. It's simply teeth on the the gear that are engaging.
Most manuals are this way, and the lack of synchronization (matching) of the reverse gears is why you hear grinding if the transmission internals haven't stopped spinning yet.
To combat this, with engine running, select 4th (synchronized) before selecting reverse, thus stopping the internals by the "braking" effect of the 4th synchro allowing easier reverse engagement.....
OK, that was more than one tip.....
One tip for you after you make the slave cylinder repair, to preserve the life that's left in your rubber centered disc.....
ALWAYS set the parking brake when parking the car, and as a good practice either shift the tranny into neutral then back into gear (for safety) or depress the clutch pedal once after killing the engine. This will relieve the tension on the rubber center.
NEVER let the weight of the car's willingness to roll while parking be held back by the rubber's resistance...
Never hold a clutch pedal down while waiting at a red light or intersection when you are waiting on traffic, on any manual equipped car.
The pressure plate's diaphram tension and throw-out bearing have a life expectantcy, so make life as easy as possible on these items.
First gear is always chosen from a stop to go foreward, and the constant selection of this gear is used more than any other gear selection, the task for a selection to first after pressing the clutch pedal, is to stop ALL internal gears from spinning allowing the sleeve to engage the gear.
Split up this task, by selecting second, then first (in one motion) from a stop thus making the 1st synchro life last twice as long.
Reverse is non-sychronized on these gearboxes, meaning it has no "brake) ring to match the speed of the mainshaft reverse, to the corresponding countershaft reverse gear. It's simply teeth on the the gear that are engaging.
Most manuals are this way, and the lack of synchronization (matching) of the reverse gears is why you hear grinding if the transmission internals haven't stopped spinning yet.
To combat this, with engine running, select 4th (synchronized) before selecting reverse, thus stopping the internals by the "braking" effect of the 4th synchro allowing easier reverse engagement.....
OK, that was more than one tip.....
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#7
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how much are we talking in parts? And what parts exactly will i need? And how difficult is the replacement of the slave cylinder? Any instructions on the web anywhere? thanks guys..
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#8
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The starter will have to be dropped, two bolts. Support the starter with bailing wire (another potentially politically incorrect term). NOTE: Remove the battery negative cable first. There are two bolts that hold the slave cylinder in and the fluid line. BE SURE AND USE FLARE NUT WRENCHES on the hydralic line, you may get away with regular wrenches once or twice but when you realize you should have it's too late. You will have to bleed the system when it is installed, do this before installing the starter, maybe easier. Be sure and keep the reseviour full. This will take two people to do right, or a tool to pressurize the system.
This job is not difficult and there is not much that needs to come out, just several things to pay attention to while doing it. If this is the first mechanical task you've done it may take a couple of hours to do, otherwise something less than an hour. Also be sure and use jack stands.
Commentary on the political correctness issue - I think that this simply shows that all auto enthusiasts, no matter how sophisticated thier automobiles, have a little red neck in their blood. There a compound sentence with at least 4 50 cent words and at least one spelling error, something for everyone! <img src="graemlins/icon501.gif" border="0" alt="[icon501]" />
This job is not difficult and there is not much that needs to come out, just several things to pay attention to while doing it. If this is the first mechanical task you've done it may take a couple of hours to do, otherwise something less than an hour. Also be sure and use jack stands.
Commentary on the political correctness issue - I think that this simply shows that all auto enthusiasts, no matter how sophisticated thier automobiles, have a little red neck in their blood. There a compound sentence with at least 4 50 cent words and at least one spelling error, something for everyone! <img src="graemlins/icon501.gif" border="0" alt="[icon501]" />
#9
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[quote] There a compound sentence with at least 4 50 cent words and at least one spelling error, something for everyone! <hr></blockquote>
There a compound sentence...?
Very good, you proved your own hypothesis......
BTW, you repeated the same adjective twice, so your sentence (with correct spelling) should have read like this:
There's a coumpound sentence with at least 4 50 cent words, and one spelling error.
Something for everyone.
See, punctuation is the key.....
Enlighten us all please, just what is the meaning of 50 cent words.....?
I'd sure hate to use an improper term in describing how something works in the future and have you completely miss the point due to a grammatical error........
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
There a compound sentence...?
Very good, you proved your own hypothesis......
BTW, you repeated the same adjective twice, so your sentence (with correct spelling) should have read like this:
There's a coumpound sentence with at least 4 50 cent words, and one spelling error.
Something for everyone.
See, punctuation is the key.....
Enlighten us all please, just what is the meaning of 50 cent words.....?
I'd sure hate to use an improper term in describing how something works in the future and have you completely miss the point due to a grammatical error........
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
#10
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Sajid,
So the feed hose to the slave at the same time as the slave cylinder.
It's no fun to do only the slave and then go back and do the hose a week later.
Ask me how I know.
So the feed hose to the slave at the same time as the slave cylinder.
It's no fun to do only the slave and then go back and do the hose a week later.
Ask me how I know.
![Mad](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)