simmomi

I just received my Turbo S calipers and rotors from a fellow rennlister. The rotors are slotted and cryoed, and unfortunately, have a coating of rust over the entire rotor (hats, slots, inside the vents, and across the entire inside back).

I'd like to remove the rust so that I can paint the hats, etc. Would my only option for properly removing the rust be to use steel wool? Is there anything that can be done about the rust down inside the vents?

Also, once the rust is removed from the slots, any problem with hand painting inside the slots (below the braking surface)? The rust is hideous looking.

Thanks all...

ERAU-944

well, once you put the brakes on your car brake dust will get in there and you won't see hardly as much rust. you plan on cleaning out your slots?

Charlotte944

I use a air driven die grinder and a wire wheel to remove the rust.

For paint I use Plasti Kote Brake Caliper paint, and then follow that with a coat of Plasti Kote clear wheel paint.

If you don't use a clear coat the base coat will get dull and brake fluid will remove the paint.

simmomi

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by ERAU-944:
<strong>you plan on cleaning out your slots?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">I'd like to, only because the slots having rust in them will cause them to look bad once everything else is cleaned up. The slots (in the brake surface area is what I'm referring to) won't be hard to clean - like Cliff said above, just use a wire wheel on anything that is exposed. The vented portion of the rotors is what I won't be able to get to. That's why I was asking if there was another way.

Make sense?

Jonas Goldsmith

I hope you are planning on using that car on the track quite a bit... I went to a tech sesion with a guy from brembo who told us that you should only get drilled for street use... the slots will fill up with debris from the street.... debris is not as big of a problem on the track obviously.... U could also take them to a machine shop and have them 1st turn the rotors and 2 polish out the slots i suppose? Just my 2 cents... good luck!

Water944t

You guys who think slotted/drilled/blinga rotors make for good rotors, really ought to go here...

<a href="http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?s=e9d81f33e34d3898e792d1d374c75e45&threadid=2002&highligh t=altima" target="_blank">Crossdrilled Assclownery</a>

...and knowing is half the battle. - G. I. Joe

Tremelune

Look for some POR-15 online. It bonds to rust and just won't rust again. It comes in gloss black, clear, and silver. From what I've read it's pretty amazing stuff. I just bought some to coat the underside of my Jeep.

simmomi

Hey Water944t...just so you know. These rotors came as a PACKAGE with some used TurboS calipers, pads, etc that I just purchased. I did not order them this way. I would have used them if they were slotted, drilled, cryoed, or whatever.

And please don't tell me that we're going to bring up the infamous Altima x-drilled thread again. Been there, done that...thank you.

Thanks for pointing out the obvious.

Water944t

No, man...I wasnt ******* your rotors at all. I just found it to be an informative thing to read all of the actual tech in the thread. I would use whatever I had too, but we still should at least make a pretense of educating the guys who might buy em, shouldnt we?

Sorry if it came off wrong, I wasnt trying to hurt your feelings.

simmomi

Uhhh, you didn't hurt my feelings...

David Floyd

You could media blast the rotors clean.

simmomi

That's what I think I'm going to do. I was already going to have the calipers powder coated (and bead blasted, if necessary). I'll probably have the rotors done, just to make them look less of an eyesore. At first, I wasn't sure if I could do that with them, but it appears that it wouldn't be much of an issue. We'll just need to protect the braking surface when doing so.

They'll be going in Monday.

Thanks guys...

Everyone be safe...happy 4th.

Dave in Chicago

I vote that you bolt them on, flog mercilessly at the track all season, replace. Repeat as needed. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

Manning

According to the label on a can of POR15 I have, it isn't UV stable and needs to be top coated.

I used silver header paint from Griot's on my rotor hats when I replaced them last summer. They only show tiny little flecks of rust after one full year of driving, including driving on salted winter roads. I cleaned the hats well, coated them with the paint as directed and baked them in the oven to help cure the finish. Fortunately my fiance was out of town when I did that <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

You could also use VHT header paint. It has a very good reputation for durability.