mblaszak

So, all these posts are old news... but as everyone is aware of, the shafts have been discontinued from Porsche. A year ago, I went to a manufacturer and had a run of universal joints made for the Porsche shafts. These are proper joints for steering shafts. Nothing cobbled up, no reaming of the yokes for larger cups, no welding on the yokes to keep undersized cups in place. There are proper joints that were manufactured for this very process, pressed together and then staked just like the factory part was. Nothing is covered over in paint, it is all visible so you can see the new joint installed at both ends. Joints also have proper seals on the cups to keep contamination out of the needle bearings. They are permanently lubricated as was the original bearing. Like the factory part, there is no ability to inject new grease. If your original shaft lasted 20+ years, this one should as well.

To do this right, I had to do a run of 100 units (minimum order). That allows the complete rebuild of 50 shaft assemblies. I have not advertised this service since I have been keeping them for my own clients and customers race cars. I will not be doing another run of joints either. Once this supply is gone, it is gone!

If anyone is interested in having a shaft properly rebuilt, then drop me a note. If your spline section is still good, then the shaft can be rebuilt no matter how badly it was hammered on to get it off (and I have seem some pretty bad ones!)

pontifex4

+1 for this. Markus did mine. It felt like new.

Dean924s

I can attest to seeing hammered on ones. Pry-bars will put large dents / gouges in them. This is usually the result of people try to remove the steering shaft with out removing the pinch bolt completely form the yoke. You should see some of my cores LOL. I can usually clean them up but there have been a couple few that were so bad I tossed them. This is usually when the damage is near where the U joint is pressed in. I don't like removing material around that area. I could weld them up and grind them back down but so far I have not had the need to do that.

Regarding injecting grease I only suggested that to people that have 20 year old ones that are binding or otherwise not functioning properly. I found that on some U joints that have bound up / frozen that if you clean them with solvent until you have removed all the dirt you can free up the Y joint. Then inject grease back into the needle bearings and they will work again. This is not a permanent fix but it will get the car back on the road until the owner can make a proper repair. It sounds like we are using very similar U joints in our rebuilds just that I have found it as an off the shelf part from a manufacturer with no minimum order. The box's they come in actually labeled with a part number from a well known and respected non US car manufacturers as that is who they primarily supply them to.

Dean924s

Wait people actually do that? I weld in washer over the end of the U joint to insure that they will not come out but the U joints I use are OE size to be pressed in the OE bore. I tack weld in the washer as an added bit of security. Have you actually seen people using undersized U joints? That is bad. . .. really bad. Over sized U joints would almost be worse as the metal in the fingers of the Yoke is minimum as it is. That would be a safety issue. I did not know people had been doing this. Makes it bad for people like you and I that are doing it correctly with the correct parts. Maybe I should go back to Staking them in as it would be easier and faster than welding in the retaining washer.

I have seen one seller of non OE replacement shafts that does not appear to be using U joints designed for steering shafts as they don't have the weather seal. In the photos I have seen of there product you can see the needle bearings and there is no weather seal.

Dean924s

For those that want to see the process I go through to rebuild these things I put together a detailed "How To" describing exactly what I do as well as photos showing the various steps along the way.

Click Here>>>Detailed Description of the rebuilding process<<<

odurandina

.................

Dean924s

The funny part is I was emailed you original message. PM me if you don't want to post up here.

Dean924s

Dragging this up from the dead but hopefully some one here knows the answer. I have been asked if I can rebuild a 1980 924 intermediate shaft. Since I don't have one to measure (or even look at) I have no clue. Does anyone know if the Yokes are the same as the 944 units? and or of the bore in the yoke is the same?

I am just trying to help out a guy.

Ohya for those that are interested I am still doing the rebuilds. My pricing has remained the same even with some increases in costs I am trying to keep this affordable so we can continue to keep these cars on the road.

Another interesting thing is that I have learned is that the indexing of the Yokes on the shafts is VERY important especially if you have an airbag equipped car. For my customers I have designated them as "A" and "B" types. There does not seem to be any logic behind what Porsche did when installing these in cars. However the intermediate shaft will only go in one way in airbag equipped cars due to the alignment of the pinch bolt with the stub they connect to. If you use a steering shaft that is indexed wrong your steering wheel will be 180 deg out. Now in a non air bag car this is not a big deal as you can just re index the wheel but in an airbag car re indexing the steering wheel is difficult. It can be done but it requires some modifications to things (I have never done it personally this is feedback from a customer). So in short if you are replacing the steering shaft in an airbag car make sure that you get a intermediate shaft that is indexed properly to match what is in your car.

And again if anyone has any info on the 924 steering shafts It would greatly appreciated as I am trying to help a fellow Porsche owner out.

V2Rocket

I have 2 924 shafts I could offer you.

Dean924s

Could you send me photos? And or measurements of them? I need the bore for the U joints and the over all width of the yoke. At least I would get an idea if they are close.

How much for the two of them?

Thanks

Dean

travisgreen

Have one for a manual rack?

V2Rocket

The splines and such are the same as on the 944.
Both shafts I have are from 924 manual racks...were 924 even offered with P/S?

Check this post on Pelican for some pictures from when I was selling a 944 rack...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...ml#post6181163

travisgreen

Do you have any info on fitment? I didn't realize 924 and 944 manual racks were different or why. Do you know if a 924 rack will fit a 968? And if it does, which intermediate shaft it will need? I'm looking for one

odonnell

I have a 944 manual intermediate shaft with no play in the bearings. I was hoping to sell with a sport manual rack I pulled, but PM if you're interested.

admiralkhole

Edit: he chimed in at the exact same time I did lol