Bog Down...White Smoke...
02-26-2009 | 11:34 PM
#31
Race Car
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,826
Likes: 4
From: Firestone, Colorado
have them check the deck height on all cylinders to make sure you didn't bend a rod.
Also you may want to do a valve job and maybe some new springs.
new rear cam gasket.
check header for cracks/breaks
replace the hoses that are in the back while it is apart (much easier)
how old are the t-belt and water pump?
How many miles on engine??
Also you may want to do a valve job and maybe some new springs.
new rear cam gasket.
check header for cracks/breaks
replace the hoses that are in the back while it is apart (much easier)
how old are the t-belt and water pump?
How many miles on engine??
02-27-2009 | 12:34 AM
#32
Temprarily Banned per IB
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,630
Likes: 1
From: Upstate NY
Thanks Russell. Really appreciate your insight, as well as others - this forum has absolutely been invaluable to me since purchasing my 951 a few months ago. I'd be in sad shape without it, that's for sure.
At any rate, I installed the Bosch 3BAR FPR and have consistent ~43PSI at my fuel rail. I didn't know if my adjustable was the cause of any problems so I just changed it.
I do have the MAX KLR chip.
I did not bypass the cycling valve when I installed the LBE. I am also running the stock WG...I am strongly considering an update to something...not sure if going to be a Lindsey or Tial. I emailed back and forth with Dave several times trying to figure out what might have been wrong and he never once mentioned that. There's no instructions online other than the picture showing where the boost hose actually goes. That said, I ran the car with JUST the chips and no boost hose for several weeks and still had the same hesistation and detonation issues that didn't exist after I took them out a few days ago.
So, do you have a diagram of what the hose scenario should look like with the boost kit installed at the cycling valve? What goes where? I read the dual port WG install guide on Lindsey's site and noticed that the valve goes away with that install - but once again, didn't see any detail on changes there when just installing the LBE.
Please don't misunderstand me - I didn't mean to imply that the chips were at fault...only that in MY situation they likely exascerbated an existing problem.
I agree with others on hydrolock...that's initially what I thought it was...not the starter. I'll pull the plugs and peek in when I get home but I don't think there any question there is coolant getting in there and based on other symptons it certainly sounds like a head gasket.
So, I'm going to have it replaced at my local shop. Any suggestions on what else can/should be changed, updated, cleaned or whatever while the head and intake is off? I'm going to ask my shop to use one of the metal wide fire ones - sounds like those handle boost better. From there, I'll work with those guys to figure out where the problem might be and why I was having problems w/ the chips.
Thanks again Russell - really appreciate the time.
At any rate, I installed the Bosch 3BAR FPR and have consistent ~43PSI at my fuel rail. I didn't know if my adjustable was the cause of any problems so I just changed it.
I do have the MAX KLR chip.
I did not bypass the cycling valve when I installed the LBE. I am also running the stock WG...I am strongly considering an update to something...not sure if going to be a Lindsey or Tial. I emailed back and forth with Dave several times trying to figure out what might have been wrong and he never once mentioned that. There's no instructions online other than the picture showing where the boost hose actually goes. That said, I ran the car with JUST the chips and no boost hose for several weeks and still had the same hesistation and detonation issues that didn't exist after I took them out a few days ago.
So, do you have a diagram of what the hose scenario should look like with the boost kit installed at the cycling valve? What goes where? I read the dual port WG install guide on Lindsey's site and noticed that the valve goes away with that install - but once again, didn't see any detail on changes there when just installing the LBE.
Please don't misunderstand me - I didn't mean to imply that the chips were at fault...only that in MY situation they likely exascerbated an existing problem.
I agree with others on hydrolock...that's initially what I thought it was...not the starter. I'll pull the plugs and peek in when I get home but I don't think there any question there is coolant getting in there and based on other symptons it certainly sounds like a head gasket.
So, I'm going to have it replaced at my local shop. Any suggestions on what else can/should be changed, updated, cleaned or whatever while the head and intake is off? I'm going to ask my shop to use one of the metal wide fire ones - sounds like those handle boost better. From there, I'll work with those guys to figure out where the problem might be and why I was having problems w/ the chips.
Thanks again Russell - really appreciate the time.
The routing for the cycling valve bypass would have been easiest when you had the intake off, but you've seen what's under there, that's where the cycling valve lives. Two rubber hoses come from it and attach to two metal lines going to the front of the engine, emerging just under the front of the intake just behind the AFM/airbox assembly, then two hoses come from them, one goes into the J-boot, the other is now routed into the boost enhancer. There is also another hose coming off of the cycling valve and going to the waste gate. You plug the J-boot where that hose was, run a line from the LBE directly to the wastegate. Actually when I did mine I used the metal line leaving the LBE the way it is and routed a hose from the back of that directly to the wastegate.
Now I'm a little confused what you mean by running the car "with no boost hose". Does this mean you disconnected boost control all together? Or you connected the banjo bolt hose the way it used to be and took out the LBE?
I don't take offense to the comments about the chips, it is natural to suspect the last thing you did before the problem started, and if that was the chips, that is what you should take out and diagnose. There have indeed been instances where chips were just bad, did not burn correctly even though they read fine when created and don't work right in the car. Dave is always willing to swap a chip with a customer if the only thing you change is a chip and the problem ocurrs.
As far as what else to do while they have it apart, I always suggest everything under the timing cover, gears, rollers, belts, seals, etc. And those pesky rear balance shaft seals. You'll get a million different answers, opinions, and data on which head gasket to buy, most all are valid. It really boils down to your ultimate goals for your car. If you're going to have a massive turbo at some point pushing 350+hp then go with the recommendations for that. If you just want to coax all you can out of the stock components, I always suggest sticking with stock. But make SURE the head and deck are true, or you will have problems the rest of your natural life. Or until you burn the car, which ever comes first.
Oh, on waste gate selection, I do recommend dual port. As for selection of manufacturer, once again it depends on your ultimate goals. But I certainly wouldn't base that decision strictly on price, you don't want your wastegate to fail, ever. Very bad.
LR has great support, and I'm happy to answer your questions as well and help you resolve your issues. Obviously there are issues, we'll be glad to help you get to the bottom of it.
If you'd like, shoot me a PM detailing issues and what work you have done before/after you began having issues and I'll see if anything else comes to mind.
Regards,
Russell
