thomschoon

I think I screwed up, I just finished putting the oil pan back on my motor, used Loctite 218 on the gasket. A guy at work said to pull it off, clean it up and put it back with a little oil or lube on the gasket or it will migrate out. My version of PET and the Haynes really don't offer any info, some help is appreciated.

Dave in Chicago

Not sure, but my factory manual says nothing about using anything on the pan gasket. Anyone else?

Keep the shiny side up,

thomschoon

Hate to bump but need some help!!

Skip

Some do, some don't [use sealant]. Most agree that you should use a light spray-on gasket adhesive to hold the gasket in place whilst locating the screws to holes. Our tech article prescribes the use of sealant only in the corners of the gasket. If anything, not much should be used, as the gasket itself does all the sealing needed for proper operation. Definitely, too much sealant will ooze and cause the gasket to flow out prematurely.

<a href="http://www.tech-session.com/Paragon/Tech/944_rod_bearing_replacement.htm" target="_blank">944 Rod Bearing Replacement (includes oil pan gasket)</a>

Search for a post Danno made about this gasket - he had some trouble and had a good explanation about what to do - I think?

Good Luck!

Steve Lavigne

I didn't use any sealant and it worked out well. There was a slight amount of weeping initally, but that went away after a few hundred miles.

I used the dental floss trick to hold it up. I also used a bent paperclip on the back of the motor to make sure that the gasket was placed correctly in the groove. So far, 10,000 miles without any problems.

Wachuko

ATTENTION: Service Manager/Service Technician

Models Affected: All 924S and 944 Models Produced From 1983

Concern: When repairing engines where removal of the oil pan is necessary, Silastic 730 RTV must be applied to the upper and lower corner joints (see arrows in Fig. A) of the oil pan and gasket to ensure proper sealing. A new pan gasket must also be installed during repairs.
Parts Information: Silastic 730 RTV - PN 000 043 019 01 Gasket (Aluminum Sump) - PN 944 101 205 02


Thank you

PCNA Service Department

Steve Lavigne

[quote]Originally posted by Jaime Diaz:
<strong>ATTENTION: Service Manager/Service Technician
Concern: When repairing engines where removal of the oil pan is necessary, Silastic 730 RTV must be applied to the upper and lower corner joints (see arrows in Fig. A) of the oil pan and gasket to ensure proper sealing. A new pan gasket must also be installed during repairs.
Parts Information: Silastic 730 RTV - PN 000 043 019 01 Gasket (Aluminum Sump) - PN 944 101 205 02</strong><hr></blockquote>

Ok... I take back what I said before. I did use a dab of (yuck) silicone on the four corners.

I did spend a good hour messing with getting it lined up properly. It was difficult to get the front and back of the gasket situated properly. The next time I do it, the engine will be upside down on a stand and I will be sitting on a stool. Sometimes gravity is such a PITA!

Danno

At a minimum, I would use something dense like that Silastic or Yamabond-4 on the corners. There's less pressure from the pan or it doesn't fit very well so some sealant is necessary. Whatever you do, DO NOT GET ANY OIL BETWEEN THE GASKET AND THE PAN OR BLOCK. Once you do, that point becomes a slippery part that can get squeezed out with normal crankcase pressure. Check out this thread:
<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic&f=15&t=004834" target="_blank">testing air-oil separator </a>

I would at least try out the car with the gasket as it is. If it holds fine. But if it leaks, then you'll have to take it off and start over.

thomschoon

Thanx for all the input, the motor is sitting on a stand with all new bearings, WP, belts, rings, head, etc. I figure I will swing it over and clean it up, put a dab of RTV and reinstall. I usually do BMW's and this thing is quickly turning into the money pit.