87944turbo

Here is something I found in the FSMs.



As you can see, installing and removing the bushing takes a reasonable amount of force and once in place, it should not move. It's "possible" that the bushing is moving out of place/alignment and causing the piston to stick. I think you need to figure out the bushing problem before spending money on another valve. You will likely have the same problem your having right now until the bushing problem is corrected regardless of what valve you put in there.

Yummybud924

well it can't really move out of allignment. it isn't moving side to side but a few mm in and out.

how would get the bushing out anyhow? not that I have the time to do it right now but wondering.

the bushing has probably been like that for a very long time and my oil pressure has been fine.

right now my only option is to clean it up and stick it back in. I don't have time to take it all apart and check the bushing or sleeve.

I will eventually replace the OPRV and get teh sleeve checked but I can't do ti right now.

I'm going to drive it around in the city today and tomorrow and keep an eye on the oil pressure. I'm more worried about driving on the highway to school as you can't really shut the car off immediately when your going a 100.

Yummybud924

that description doesn't make sense to me..... how do you remove the bushing by unscrewing it.....

I'm also confused, does the bushing run the whole length of the bore? the bore or "sleeve" that I'm describing which moves is like 3 cm or more inside the bore

xsboost90

so the cylinder that is pressed into the block sounds like the inside part is broken somehow. IF this is the case you need to replace that-if possible. This cylinder should be one piec and if the valve that goes into it should be pushed back far enough the valve would stick wide open, causing no oil pressure. My three piece OPRV stuck on the race track (mid ohio) after a downshift after the back straight. Basically the OPRV stuck open and bypassed all the pressure back to the oil pan. I saw the light come on and the gauge drop and shut the car off immediately. After pulling the valve out and cleaning it i reinstalled and drove the rest of the weekend w/ no problems. I also paid the $300+ to paragon for the one piece retrofit after that weekend.* If the sleeve is your problem it sounds like you need that and your original spring etc would work fine.

if you want i can try to pull one out of an old early block i have and if it comes out ok i'll send it to you and you can Loctite it back in per the manual.

87944turbo

See pic above, looks like vise-grips. I hope things work out.

KuHL 951

At the very least you should spray WD-40, carb cleaner, or some type of solvent into the bore for the OPRV. Then take an air compressor and nozzle and blow any debris that might have caused the piston to lock up. If the piston suddenly freezes up like that I would suspect debris. That's what happened on mine. It just stopped building pressure one morning and that was that. I cleaned the piston, the bore, and reinstalled the old one until my 1-piece valve arrived. It worked fine again until I did the swap. That is your least expensive option at this point. Even realignment seems unnecessary since it satrted all at once. That loose sleeve still would concern me though if the bottom is not sealing well. Give the cleaning and that old OPRV a try; what do you have to lose as long as you shut down immediately if it doesn't prime? Do not use ScotchBrite on the sleeve, just solvents. You would be better off polishing the piston with metal polish than an abrasive pad so that it slides easily. I've got an engine on the stand right now and will check the sleeve tonight and see if mine can move at all. Don't give up, this isn't the first time it has happened to folks with early cars.

87944turbo

I think unscrewing means "twist back and forth". I don't think it's threaded, especially since the replacement is driven into place, not screwed into place. Some things probably don't transfer well from German to English.

Yummybud924

yeah that is weird the sleeve on mine seems like a two pieces then? how would it snap in half though that seems unlikely.

I can't really see it put when I stuck my pinky finger in there I could feel the threads for the bolt obviously then smooth bore inside then after that there is a sleeve taht can be pushed and pulled in an out a couple mms

Yummybud924

well I thought it may be binding where there is a division where the bore is smooth and not movable then ther is that moving sleeve. I had to twist the oprv piston until it slid all the way in as when I was putting it back it it would slide with no effort to where that sleeve moves then when I twisted it (not really using much pressure) it would slide fully in.

okay thanks. isn't spraying wd40 in the oil system bad? and is that the best thing to use to clean the bore?

and what solvent should I use to clean the piston. it's not even really dirty but wouldn't hurt to clean it.

I was also thinking of polishing the piston so it slides easier and less chance of binding.

how would I polish it though?

can you polish it by hand with metal polish like for wheels etc?

thanks.

KuHL 951

Don't worry you won't use enough cleaning solvent to thin your oil out unless you pour a whole can in there. You just want to loosen anything and then blow it out with air. You can use any metal or silver polish on the piston and do it by hand until it is baby butt smooth and shiny. Just make sure to rinse it really really well to flush any abrasive off. To be truthful I'm not sure what effect a loose sleeve would have on oil pressure if it came unseated but I'm sure it would not be good or they wouldn't have you use Loctite at the base to seal it right? The factory drift tool that drives in the sleeve also sets the correct height the sleeve extends into the cooler housing. I'm sorry but I only have experience with the 951 housing and it doesn't have an oil cooler section like the NA.

Yabo

Did you ever remove your oil cooler housing? I'm confused at why you want to reseat it. I really doubt it's moved unless you took it off.

Yummybud924

well an owner before me may have replaced it and not used the allignment tool you never know.

Yummybud924

ok I checked it out again and the sleeve moves freely in mine so the loctite must have failed.

I can't get the sleeve out I can only pul it to teh threaded part of the hole it's bigger than the threaded hole so no way I can just pull it out.

looks like you have to remove the oil cooler to get it out?

i took my oprv out again and pushed the sleeve all the way back then put it back in. now I get oil pressure but it's pegged at 5 bar which seems to high after 5 minutes of running with 5w50.

I think my oprv is fine it's that sleeve that has come loose. how many hours would a shop charge to fix this?

i'm thinking of doing it myself but I don't like how clarks says the exhaust header has to be disconnected.

Yummybud924

also where can you get a replacement sleeve.....

Mark944na86

I think you should just sell the car. It doesn't like you. As soon as you dump a bunch of money into this, it will come up with something else to make you wish you had sold after the last time you got it running.

You can't fight bad carma, especially bad p-carma.