Received Icesharks Headlight kit today
#1
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Received Icesharks Headlight kit today
WOW!!!!!
This is some great craftsmanship on the wiring harness, I will install this weekend but, with my engine out, it will be little while longer on the lighting results, I am sure it will be great.
Hey Dan, have you thought about making a replacement main ( underhood ) wiring harness?
The stock unit looks like crap compaired to your work.
Oh, did I say how impressed I am ? and this is just after opening the box.
I just love quality work <img src="graemlins/bigok.gif" border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" />
This is some great craftsmanship on the wiring harness, I will install this weekend but, with my engine out, it will be little while longer on the lighting results, I am sure it will be great.
Hey Dan, have you thought about making a replacement main ( underhood ) wiring harness?
The stock unit looks like crap compaired to your work.
Oh, did I say how impressed I am ? and this is just after opening the box.
I just love quality work <img src="graemlins/bigok.gif" border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" />
#2
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I'll second how sturdy and bullet proof looking the kit is. Did you get your kit with longer ground bolts and sheet metal screws? I know Dan was going to include these with his next batch, but I'm not sure if these were his next batch or not.
I'll give you a couple of pointers that may make installation easier...when re-screwing in the main positive bolt on the alternator with the additional terminal in, it was easiest to use a magnetic bolt pickerupper rod thing to hold the back of the bolt and use your other hand to thread it in...that gives you more space to work with your one hand. If you didn't get the longer chassis ground bolts with your kit, go to the hardware store and pick some up...they will make it a lot easier to install the chassis grounds (sorry...I don't know the size off hand...maybe Dan does). For snaking the line to the pass. side headlight...you will see where the stock wires tunnel through...its a black plastic air dam/trim piece behind the front fascia, and it is held on with 3 bolts on the top, some more elsewhere. I found it quite easy to undo the top three bolts, bend the plastic down, and then you can get enough room to put your hand in there so you can actually pull it through instead of snaking it...it was quite easy this way, but I scraped up my arm a bit. The biggest challenge was the pass. side ground bolt for the wiring kit. I didn't think to remove the black plastic bucket for the headlights...this would have made it possible, but I didn't realize this at the time. I ended up putting the two eyes for the grounds on a bolt that holds the bracket for the rod for the headlight flipper mechanism to the chassis...this was much easier and worked fine. I had a small issue with one of my fuse holders (not Dan's fault...it was the manufacturer of the box) and Iceshark was willing to go through all sorts of hoops to help me...I ended up just needing to squeeze the fuse holder together with some pliers to fix it, but Dan's a great guy and he put together a great kit.
I'll give you a couple of pointers that may make installation easier...when re-screwing in the main positive bolt on the alternator with the additional terminal in, it was easiest to use a magnetic bolt pickerupper rod thing to hold the back of the bolt and use your other hand to thread it in...that gives you more space to work with your one hand. If you didn't get the longer chassis ground bolts with your kit, go to the hardware store and pick some up...they will make it a lot easier to install the chassis grounds (sorry...I don't know the size off hand...maybe Dan does). For snaking the line to the pass. side headlight...you will see where the stock wires tunnel through...its a black plastic air dam/trim piece behind the front fascia, and it is held on with 3 bolts on the top, some more elsewhere. I found it quite easy to undo the top three bolts, bend the plastic down, and then you can get enough room to put your hand in there so you can actually pull it through instead of snaking it...it was quite easy this way, but I scraped up my arm a bit. The biggest challenge was the pass. side ground bolt for the wiring kit. I didn't think to remove the black plastic bucket for the headlights...this would have made it possible, but I didn't realize this at the time. I ended up putting the two eyes for the grounds on a bolt that holds the bracket for the rod for the headlight flipper mechanism to the chassis...this was much easier and worked fine. I had a small issue with one of my fuse holders (not Dan's fault...it was the manufacturer of the box) and Iceshark was willing to go through all sorts of hoops to help me...I ended up just needing to squeeze the fuse holder together with some pliers to fix it, but Dan's a great guy and he put together a great kit.
#3
Nordschleife Master
Thanks for the kind words, guys.
David got the extra long 6mm ground bolts in stainless due to your comments, Ribs. I got backordered on the stainless pan head sheet metal screws for the relay brackets so shipped his kit and Gerd's without those rather than waiting for them. I forgot his engine was out and he wouldn't care if it took another week. Think Gerd wants to try it out ASAP. He should get today, also, so can fit & fire them up before going out of country.
David, if you are going to screw the relays into the fenderwell go down to the hardware store and pick up a pair of #10 or #12 stainless pan head sheet metal screws X 1/2" long. or 5/8" or whatever else close is available.
Ribs, that one fuseholder deal (out of about 40) really pisses me off as I actually run each kit to test before shipping. I don't know what happened there, maybe it got smacked in shipping.
David, when Hell freezes over I might think about making the main wiring harness - it is a LOT of work to do it the way I do. Really the only applications that can afford it are NASA, military and marine which need the nth degree of performance and never fail reliability.
David got the extra long 6mm ground bolts in stainless due to your comments, Ribs. I got backordered on the stainless pan head sheet metal screws for the relay brackets so shipped his kit and Gerd's without those rather than waiting for them. I forgot his engine was out and he wouldn't care if it took another week. Think Gerd wants to try it out ASAP. He should get today, also, so can fit & fire them up before going out of country.
David, if you are going to screw the relays into the fenderwell go down to the hardware store and pick up a pair of #10 or #12 stainless pan head sheet metal screws X 1/2" long. or 5/8" or whatever else close is available.
Ribs, that one fuseholder deal (out of about 40) really pisses me off as I actually run each kit to test before shipping. I don't know what happened there, maybe it got smacked in shipping.
David, when Hell freezes over I might think about making the main wiring harness - it is a LOT of work to do it the way I do. Really the only applications that can afford it are NASA, military and marine which need the nth degree of performance and never fail reliability.
#4
YEAH, THAT IS ONE BAD-*** WIRING KIT isn't it? Too bad I'm not sure if i'm keeping the car- I actually found my latest catastrophy while taking stuff apart to install the lights (wiring). Now, it's time to sell the 951 if I can get some poor sap to take it off my hands. That leaves SOOO MANY questions though- the biggest one being- what to get? The thought of buying ANOTHER 951 actually crosses my mind- THAT WOULD BE STUPID- I MUST HAVE been dropped on my head when I was little. NO, I don't say that as if they are bad cars- I'm saying that no one in his right mind would do all the little misc things I've done to this car and THEN SELL IT AND BUY ANOTHER ONE! Oh well, I've got to make some decisions, unfortunately- and until I do, i'm not going to mess w/that killer light set-up. NO WAY would I install that to sell the car w/it on! It's going on whatever I get next
David-
What's going on w/your engine?
David-
What's going on w/your engine?
#5
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Ribs, Thanks for the tips.
Iceshark, LOL I hear you on the main harness.
Robby, pistons finaly came in from JE and Tim should be about done with the build up.
Iceshark, LOL I hear you on the main harness.
Robby, pistons finaly came in from JE and Tim should be about done with the build up.
#6
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Got mine all installed. Or so I thought. 'Forgot the damned PS grounds. Now that I can't make Toolmaster's soiree in NH, I guess I'll pull the belly pan and attach the other grounds. Other than my own screw up, this system is great!!
Nice job, Dan. <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />
Nice job, Dan. <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />
#7
Nordschleife Master
Rob and all other early buyers, if you want the 2 long stainless machine screws for the ground points or the 2 stainless panhead sheet metal screws for relays, let me know and I will send no charge. It would be cheaper in the overall scheme of life for you to just go down to the local hardware store, but I have this improvement on hand now and can ship them to you.
David, underneath that finishing heat shrink is much of the labor that makes it so expensive. The terminals/butt connectors are top quality Molex or some hand built jobs by me (due to fitment issues). Then crimped with a proper tool. Besides inferior wire gauge, that is where Porsche stops. Then I solder the terminal to wire. Then some Dow Corning 832 non-corrosive sealant. Heat shrink the whole works and drive the sealant into every opening.
I'm keeping track of my sailboat I built that I put into service in 1980. Most of life has been salt water service. Used same methods, except for silicone which was the original RTV which was much more corrosive in the cure. It still works perfect as of December. 21 years in salt water and no problems ..... this build system stands the test of time. And time in use is the ultimate judge.
With Paul K. getting the last wiring harness, this is sort of a moot point. I will need 15 new buyers to do another build.
David, underneath that finishing heat shrink is much of the labor that makes it so expensive. The terminals/butt connectors are top quality Molex or some hand built jobs by me (due to fitment issues). Then crimped with a proper tool. Besides inferior wire gauge, that is where Porsche stops. Then I solder the terminal to wire. Then some Dow Corning 832 non-corrosive sealant. Heat shrink the whole works and drive the sealant into every opening.
I'm keeping track of my sailboat I built that I put into service in 1980. Most of life has been salt water service. Used same methods, except for silicone which was the original RTV which was much more corrosive in the cure. It still works perfect as of December. 21 years in salt water and no problems ..... this build system stands the test of time. And time in use is the ultimate judge.
With Paul K. getting the last wiring harness, this is sort of a moot point. I will need 15 new buyers to do another build.
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#8
Nordschleife Master
And there goes the last Full Boat kit (lenses, bulbs, regulator, harness - the whole works David was talking about) to a member in the Great White North. My first international sale of this setup!
So I am cleaned out of everything if all the checks show up. To do another run I'll need about 15 takers. Drop me an E-Mail if interested. Target would be Forth of July as I can't get any more Cibies until then.
So I am cleaned out of everything if all the checks show up. To do another run I'll need about 15 takers. Drop me an E-Mail if interested. Target would be Forth of July as I can't get any more Cibies until then.
#10
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I can't wait to "See the light" as well...I'm sure this will not be your last sale up here...Thanks Dan <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
#11
Nordschleife Master
Keith. No, I haven't received your first check. You are one in this pool of checks that haven't shown up yet. But I'm still keeping your kit set aside.
You can tell your Dad that he is smoked, the extra wiring harnesses are all gone to guys that ordered just the lenses to start. He should have jumped on that. I'll want another 15 guys before I start a new build up again. So doubt it will happen anytime soon.
One item I need to order would cover 66 kits. <img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" /> Slight minimum order quantity problem. But this is from Delphi and the parts are cheap enough that 15 kits can make it happen.
You can tell your Dad that he is smoked, the extra wiring harnesses are all gone to guys that ordered just the lenses to start. He should have jumped on that. I'll want another 15 guys before I start a new build up again. So doubt it will happen anytime soon.
One item I need to order would cover 66 kits. <img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" /> Slight minimum order quantity problem. But this is from Delphi and the parts are cheap enough that 15 kits can make it happen.
#13
Nordschleife Master
Keith, don't say that within earshot of your Dad! Trust me on this. <img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" />
If he really wants in on any new build have him send a deposit check for $100. He will get the money back if it doesn't pull off, but that is the easiest way I can actually figure out who is real. Money talks, Bull**** walks.
If he really wants in on any new build have him send a deposit check for $100. He will get the money back if it doesn't pull off, but that is the easiest way I can actually figure out who is real. Money talks, Bull**** walks.
#15
Dan (IceShark), could you e-mail me directly with info on your light upgrade kit?
gbaeske@knology.net
gbaeske@knology.net