Wheel refurbishment
#1
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I'm looking for somewhere to get a set of telephone dials re-finished. The wheels aren't generally in too bad condition, a little gouge here and there, but in need of a re-paint etc.
Any suggestions/experiences? I'm in Philadelphia PA so someone local would be good though shipping them off wouldn't be impossible as they are a spare set ('87 currently has wrong offset/turbo telephone dials on it which are rubbing too often for both my and the Yokohamas liking)
Thanks
Any suggestions/experiences? I'm in Philadelphia PA so someone local would be good though shipping them off wouldn't be impossible as they are a spare set ('87 currently has wrong offset/turbo telephone dials on it which are rubbing too often for both my and the Yokohamas liking)
Thanks
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According to google the website should be
<a href="http://www.beckerwheels.com/" target="_blank">http://www.beckerwheels.com/</a>
and also gives the following:
Becker Distributors LLC 58 Clinton Road Fairfield, NJ 07004 Tel: 800.848.9989
But the website isn't currently working, but thanks for the info I'll try them during the week.
<a href="http://www.beckerwheels.com/" target="_blank">http://www.beckerwheels.com/</a>
and also gives the following:
Becker Distributors LLC 58 Clinton Road Fairfield, NJ 07004 Tel: 800.848.9989
But the website isn't currently working, but thanks for the info I'll try them during the week.
#4
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For what its worth, I recently refinished my own phonedials (finally!) and it was very easy and came out great. Everyone who see my car has commented on the improvement. My car is also an '87 GUards Red NA. Let me know by response or private email if you want details. It took two days but in terms of difficulty....there wasn't any! I used Rustoleum Bright Silver Mettallic and then Clear Coat. Don't worry, the Mettallic SEEMS too glittery when you buy the can but it isn't, especially when the clear coat goes on. It tends to dwonplay the glitter and instead they mellow out just right and look great. The clear gives it that close-to-factory look shine. Anyway, good luck whatever you do.
#5
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I redid one of mine myself several months ago. Just let the pressure out so I could mask it from the rim, cleaned it really well and gave it a light sanding with superfine sandpaper, filed out a couple of light gouges on the outside of the rim lip and finished it with several coats of wheel paint. It looks pretty good for $7.00 and a couple of hours. Good enough for me, anyway.
Oh yeah, I marked the tire where the balance weights were located, so I could replace them in exactly the same spot.
Oh yeah, I marked the tire where the balance weights were located, so I could replace them in exactly the same spot.
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I'm with Dan. I did mine with Rustoleum Pro, same color, and came out awesome. I did both my phone dials and Cup1's. Alot cheaper than Wurth, easier to work with, readily available at any Home Depot.
nh3
nh3
#7
Three Wheelin'
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Rustoleum folks: What about sanding and what not? Did you just spray over the old paint? My cookie-cutters are in dire need of some love, but I'm not about to spend $150 each to have them professionally redone...
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#9
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I did mine myself as well, although the ones I did were for my Audi. I sandblasted them, then wiped them down with laquer thinner.
I used the Wurth silver, followed by wurth clearcoat. Rustoleum is probably cheaper, but the Wurth paint is awesome. You really get a feel for how tough that paint is when you try to sandblast it. I started out with glass bead, but that wouldn't touch the stuff on there.
Anyhow, used three coats of silver, then two of clear. They're so smooth they look like they're made of plastic.
Good luck!
Greg Roa
Cincinnati, OH
83' 944
86' 4kcsq
93' 90 CS
I used the Wurth silver, followed by wurth clearcoat. Rustoleum is probably cheaper, but the Wurth paint is awesome. You really get a feel for how tough that paint is when you try to sandblast it. I started out with glass bead, but that wouldn't touch the stuff on there.
Anyhow, used three coats of silver, then two of clear. They're so smooth they look like they're made of plastic.
Good luck!
Greg Roa
Cincinnati, OH
83' 944
86' 4kcsq
93' 90 CS
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Tremelune, Yes, the repaint goes on right over the old paint...sanded of course.
1. Wash the wheel and tire assy with Castrol degreaser purple stuff.
2. Wet sand w/ 240 grit wet/dry, thoroughly washed them with clean water, then used compressed air to blow out all remaining air and dry the surface. If you don't have a compressor, just wipe them down and let them dry in the full sun for an hour or two. Allow them to cool to ambient before spraying though.
2. THEN, as Peckster said, let the air out of the tire (remove the stem - hell of a lot faster).
3. Mask with tape and masking paper or newspaper. Slide tape just under the edge of the rim.
4. Spray with Rustoleum. Remember, use the bright mettallic stuff. The one whose lid SEEMS too glittery - it isn't. Allow to dry a few minutes and spray with clear. I used "Decorator" something-or-other brand. Look closely, it's made by Rustoleum. Mostly blue can with white lid.
5. Strip tape/paper BEFORE it dries (CAREFULLY!!!) so you down't peel anything off when dry. I later waxed mine and thry look awesome. Look at the wheel from every angle while spraying. It's too easy to miss or lightly coat certain hard to reach areas. You'll be VERY pleased with the results.
P.S. Sorry to disagree, Wurth is great, but it isn't any harder than Rustoleum. It's factory applied and THAT is why it seems tougher. As for color?...it's probably closer to facotry but we're talking a very fine distinction here. Concours?...no, but you wouldn't be home spraying ANY product if that is what you're after. For a very sano daily driven car, the Rustoleum is great and not $15 a can like Wurth.
1. Wash the wheel and tire assy with Castrol degreaser purple stuff.
2. Wet sand w/ 240 grit wet/dry, thoroughly washed them with clean water, then used compressed air to blow out all remaining air and dry the surface. If you don't have a compressor, just wipe them down and let them dry in the full sun for an hour or two. Allow them to cool to ambient before spraying though.
2. THEN, as Peckster said, let the air out of the tire (remove the stem - hell of a lot faster).
3. Mask with tape and masking paper or newspaper. Slide tape just under the edge of the rim.
4. Spray with Rustoleum. Remember, use the bright mettallic stuff. The one whose lid SEEMS too glittery - it isn't. Allow to dry a few minutes and spray with clear. I used "Decorator" something-or-other brand. Look closely, it's made by Rustoleum. Mostly blue can with white lid.
5. Strip tape/paper BEFORE it dries (CAREFULLY!!!) so you down't peel anything off when dry. I later waxed mine and thry look awesome. Look at the wheel from every angle while spraying. It's too easy to miss or lightly coat certain hard to reach areas. You'll be VERY pleased with the results.
P.S. Sorry to disagree, Wurth is great, but it isn't any harder than Rustoleum. It's factory applied and THAT is why it seems tougher. As for color?...it's probably closer to facotry but we're talking a very fine distinction here. Concours?...no, but you wouldn't be home spraying ANY product if that is what you're after. For a very sano daily driven car, the Rustoleum is great and not $15 a can like Wurth.
#11
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Just had a thought.....wouldn't it be funny if some of the wheel refubishers did the same thing you guys are describing and charging $150 per wheel for it??
Anyways, can this process described by Dan be used on the FORGED (not cast) wheels of the TurboS? I assume you guys were talking about cast wheels.....
Anyways, can this process described by Dan be used on the FORGED (not cast) wheels of the TurboS? I assume you guys were talking about cast wheels.....
#12
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Dan,
I've used the Wurth, and I've used rustoleum. I still have to say that I am much more impressed with the Wurth paint. I've used my share of paint over the years while fixing up my cars, and my impression is that the Wurth is better paint than most of the stuff you can buy off of the shelf. I put it on the control arms of my Audi and they have yet to chip in 20k miles.
It's more expensive, sure, but you'll use about a can of silver, and half a can of clear for a set of wheels. The way I see it, that sets me back $30, and I still have some clear left over.
Not many things that I have done to my Porsche that have only cost $30. I like to save money on things, but that's one place I'll spring for the extra $20 or so that it will cost me.
Good Luck!
Greg Roa
Cincinnati, OH
83' 944
86' 4kcsq
93' 90 CS
I've used the Wurth, and I've used rustoleum. I still have to say that I am much more impressed with the Wurth paint. I've used my share of paint over the years while fixing up my cars, and my impression is that the Wurth is better paint than most of the stuff you can buy off of the shelf. I put it on the control arms of my Audi and they have yet to chip in 20k miles.
It's more expensive, sure, but you'll use about a can of silver, and half a can of clear for a set of wheels. The way I see it, that sets me back $30, and I still have some clear left over.
Not many things that I have done to my Porsche that have only cost $30. I like to save money on things, but that's one place I'll spring for the extra $20 or so that it will cost me.
Good Luck!
Greg Roa
Cincinnati, OH
83' 944
86' 4kcsq
93' 90 CS