60 Mph Wheel Shake
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60 Mph Wheel Shake
I know this subject has been beaten to death, but, am I missing something here? I can't get rid of this steering wheel shimmy. All this has been done in the last 3000 miles: New tires, re-balanced tires, 2 four wheel alignments, new steering rack, (manual, not p/s), new struts, and new wheel bearings. In addition, the car pulls to the left a little bit. Ideas??
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What about a worn A-arm? Just a guess- I'm havomg similar probs, but hve many varibles to eliminate first- I've only balanced the tires (bearings were done fairly recently)- I'm going for an alignment next.
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[quote]Originally posted by Eternal Porscheholic:
<strong>2 four wheel alignments,the car pulls to the left a little bit. Ideas??</strong><hr></blockquote>
Who did the alignment, any decent speaclist or OEM will point out "any" problem like this,
takes about 4 hours to do properly, Mine was a differnt car aftearward, shimmy went and pull to the left as well gone.
the "shimmy" is supposed to be a common design problem.
Is the WHeel locking bolt on the right stud ??
Check your manual, your supposed to mount the wheels on to the hub with the valve (on the tyre)closest to the the stud marked with a red paint, and trhe locking stud should be attached to this stud as well, you may not see it very clearly , I had to remark mine !
If this is not done you'll get an imbalance problem.
Also get your speacalist or OEM to do a proper wheel balanca
<strong>2 four wheel alignments,the car pulls to the left a little bit. Ideas??</strong><hr></blockquote>
Who did the alignment, any decent speaclist or OEM will point out "any" problem like this,
takes about 4 hours to do properly, Mine was a differnt car aftearward, shimmy went and pull to the left as well gone.
the "shimmy" is supposed to be a common design problem.
Is the WHeel locking bolt on the right stud ??
Check your manual, your supposed to mount the wheels on to the hub with the valve (on the tyre)closest to the the stud marked with a red paint, and trhe locking stud should be attached to this stud as well, you may not see it very clearly , I had to remark mine !
If this is not done you'll get an imbalance problem.
Also get your speacalist or OEM to do a proper wheel balanca
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I'm experiencing same problem, will take the advice as soon as possible. Part of the problem might be the POS rim protectors (General XP2000 at
225/50 x 16 all round <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" /> ) that I hope to change out soon.
225/50 x 16 all round <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" /> ) that I hope to change out soon.
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Do you guys have the stock wheel locks on the car?
If so, the lock itself MUST be directly opposite the valve stem... That's a potential here.
HTH!
If so, the lock itself MUST be directly opposite the valve stem... That's a potential here.
HTH!
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Ooops.. Pulling to the left too?
Well, there's ball joints as mentioned, and potentally strut mounts. Grab the top of the strut tower in the engine bay and give it a good shake. If it moves, then it should be replaced.
HTH!
Well, there's ball joints as mentioned, and potentally strut mounts. Grab the top of the strut tower in the engine bay and give it a good shake. If it moves, then it should be replaced.
HTH!
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[quote]Originally posted by Toolmaster:
<strong>If so, the lock itself MUST be directly opposite the valve stem... That's a potential here.</strong><hr></blockquote>
As I said earlier, it "must" also be on the stud with the paint on it to identify it !
<strong>If so, the lock itself MUST be directly opposite the valve stem... That's a potential here.</strong><hr></blockquote>
As I said earlier, it "must" also be on the stud with the paint on it to identify it !
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Thanks for the advice. I didn't know that about the wheel locking bolt. I had stock cookie cutters on but have since replaced with phone dials. It's been much worse since upgrading to the dials. I'll check the locking bolts.
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hmm.. just wondering, with all this bolt swapping, whats the proper torque the bolts should be at? (not like i have a torque wrench) i guess keep turning till it feels tight? i think one or two of my wheel locks are on the wrong side and im getting a 65mph shimmy in the steering wheel
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hey andy, nice of you to ask
no i never actually posted a followup.. i dunno why. its pretty good, considering what happened i dont think it could be any better. my wheel was always shakin ~65 .. my speakers sorta dont work so well now, i need new ones anyway.. and .. well.. i guess thats it. maybe ill post some before+after just for fun later - not like anyone cares!
no i never actually posted a followup.. i dunno why. its pretty good, considering what happened i dont think it could be any better. my wheel was always shakin ~65 .. my speakers sorta dont work so well now, i need new ones anyway.. and .. well.. i guess thats it. maybe ill post some before+after just for fun later - not like anyone cares!
#13
[quote]Originally posted by Toolmaster:
<strong>Do you guys have the stock wheel locks on the car?
If so, the lock itself MUST be directly opposite the valve stem... That's a potential here.
HTH!</strong><hr></blockquote>
Wow… I thought that logic only applied to the crest of the center caps!!
Hmm… I’ll have to check my wheel locks, just to make sure that mine are set correctly. My car also does have a bit of a shake/shimmy, but it’s not all that bad... the car still felt controllable the other day at 130 mph!!
Jim
<strong>Do you guys have the stock wheel locks on the car?
If so, the lock itself MUST be directly opposite the valve stem... That's a potential here.
HTH!</strong><hr></blockquote>
Wow… I thought that logic only applied to the crest of the center caps!!
Hmm… I’ll have to check my wheel locks, just to make sure that mine are set correctly. My car also does have a bit of a shake/shimmy, but it’s not all that bad... the car still felt controllable the other day at 130 mph!!
Jim
#14
[quote]Originally posted by adrian jay:
<strong>
As I said earlier, it "must" also be on the stud with the paint on it to identify it !</strong><hr></blockquote>
As opposed to opposite the valve stem? Why is that? Did Porsche mark it that way just for the wheel locks?
Thanks.
Jim
<strong>
As I said earlier, it "must" also be on the stud with the paint on it to identify it !</strong><hr></blockquote>
As opposed to opposite the valve stem? Why is that? Did Porsche mark it that way just for the wheel locks?
Thanks.
Jim
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well if you think about it.. there is no lock directly across from the valve stem.. there are 2 directly across it and nothing in between them so.. i guess theres a red marking on the one that its supposed to be on. i think i should go jack my car up and do some lock swapping...