DarylJ

Thread resurrection: It's going to be 50 tomorrow and 60 on Wednesday. I spent the weekend getting ready to prime on Tuesday, wet sand Tuesday evening, and shoot color and clear on Wednesday. It might be my last chance, as I can't get much over 65 degrees unless it's at least 45 outside.

Finally in the booth with the tarps down:




Air diffuser so I don't get direct air on the car. Don't laugh, it works. OK....go ahead, laugh. I did.


Temporary tape up of the driver's side door for priming around the rest of the areas that will need it. The inside of the (gold) replacement door will be color coated off the car, as will the under the hood portion of the replacement fender. Both will then be re-mounted along with the header panel and light covers (once I do the sides of them). I'm not confident enough spraying metallic to do these parts off of the car. I'm afraid I'll end up with some wicked uneven flop.


Ready for a final cleaning:


I have a duck tail now!

V2Rocket

so thats what my car would look like sanded down..

lookin good, cant wait to see the finished product. this is something i may end up doing myself.

Marcquito

AHH! Exciting!!! Post as many pictures as you can! Good luck! This should be rewarding.

potent951turbo

Looks good, I can't wait to see the final product. Why not just pull the hatch off? You would get a much nicer result for only about five minutes worth of work.

fwb42

Looks good. A couple of tips for you. Make sure that all those spots are feathered out real well, or they will show. As for venting the area, put some furnace filters in the plastic and draw air thru them and out on the opposite side. Clean air in, bad air out. Did your painr dealer tell you about "glazing putty"? Use it after priming to fix all small defects. This will take care of sand scratches etc. Good luck !!

DarylJ

Because the madness has to stop somewhere. And 5 minutes to take it off equals almost an hour to get it back on and lined up.

This isn't a full on concours restore. It will be what it will be.

DarylJ

As for feathering, I think I have it. I'm at 320 now, and all is smooth. I'm going to go up to 600 or 800 after the primer (whatever the spec sheet for the base coat says). Again, I THINK I have it. Not sure. We'll see.

As far as venting, that's taken care of. There is a double furnace filter on the shop heater (old gas pack house heater) and 2 single layer filters venting outside from the booth. When the fan is on, it pressurizes the booth nicely. As long as mt filters do their job, I ought to have good air and good ventilation. I can heat the booth enough to get the car up to temperature, and then switch off the heat and run fan only to keep up the positive pressure during coats.

I do have a pound tube of glazing putty. I've never bothered using it before, so this will be the first time. Any tips on that, no matter how obvious, are appreciated. I figure I just put it on with a rubber scraper as light as possible, let it dry, and wet sand again on spots that look like they need it. That all? Or is there a trick?

Paseb

nice projet, keep it up

im thinking myself of doing it since i remove a lot of parts from my car...

id like to do the sanding myself but never done this before...


how hard is to remove the rear quarter windows, doors?

fwb42

Daryl, Sounds like you have done your homework. You are right about using the glazzing putty thin. Rubber applicater is correct. After sanding, reprimer, sand (run hand over car,rule is if you can feel depressions,they will show) and final color, clear= good job !!
Enjoy,
Fred

DarylJ

You NEED shop air and a D/A at a minimum. As well as a LOT of sandpaper and a LOT of patience and time.


Easy. Ask me about how they go back in next week

But those are the easy parts. The lower valence is attached by about 178 bolts. It ought to be fun to figure out how to put back on.

Also, pulling the metal door trim and rain gutters without breaking things when you've never done it before is nerve racking. Once you get one side off, it's easy, because you've already figured it out.

DarylJ

That what I thought - but its good to have more confirmation, thanks.

Waiting for the temp to go up as this storm rolls in. Should be warm enough to start in a few hours. I'll post some pics of the primed result if I have a chance.

Paseb

this is where my car is store right now, see background of picture



not sure its a good idea to do the sanding there...

DarylJ

If I ever do this again, I'll build my booth first, sand in it, and then replace the plastic. If you're not worried about the rest of the stuff in the garage/barn, some plastic over those boxes (only while you're sanding and until the dust dies down) would be just fine. Yes, I'm an actual sworn-in, badge and gun carrying fire marshal and everything. Its fine to do, but you don't want to leave it there long term.

DarylJ

The booth worked out better than I could have imagined. No paint haze in the air, nothing. I ended up using my respirator instead of the bottled air once I realized just how much and how fast I was exchanging air in the booth. Guess that has something to do with using the fan from a house heater from a 2500 sq. foot house.

So, this is my first time ever spraying HVLP. I used the old suction cup on the bottom things before. There's no going back. It uses so little air, puts so much paint where it's supposed to go, and makes so little crap around where you're shooting that its just amazing. I primed the entire car plus parts in 2 coats (near full coverage on the first coat, totally good on the second) with one pint plus 1/4 sprayable (I'm using the DuPont high end paint system - the primer is 4:1 with the activator). Some of it is a bit nasty, as I'm not used to adjusting this gun. I have a lot of sanding to do. Most of it is pretty good and will take only a light sand to make perfect.

I'm on my 2 hour wait-for-it-to-dry-before-wet-sanding break. Here's how it looks:

Marcquito

Wow, looks great so far! It's going to look great. Keep posting pictures!