Manual steering shaft
11-17-2008, 07:43 PM
#17
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thanks a bunch Doc, so there are 4 pinch bolts which allows adjustment, pretty nice. I'm going to check the dealer to see if they are still available.
11-18-2008, 10:50 AM
#19
Nordschleife Master
Good find on the Volvo shaft. Is that a vibration damper in the center of the shaft?
Here are the details of the one I posted above:
Custom built by Borgeson in steel (also comes in stainless and aluminum):
It's a solid piece, feels very tight and would probably survive a nuclear explosion. Has been on the car for a year and works great, but was expensive.
On my second conversion I just purchased the needle bearings used in the shaft above and had a machine shop install them into my old manual shaft. The shaft is on the car so I can't take any close-up pics, and again it works great, zero play. I cannot remember where I got the bearings from, the markings on the bearings are:
Torrington DB-79757 EPPPP
I think they cost $2.50 each, I needed 8 and the machine shop charged me an hours labor - Anyway the total was less than $150.
Hope this helps...
Here are the details of the one I posted above:
Custom built by Borgeson in steel (also comes in stainless and aluminum):
It's a solid piece, feels very tight and would probably survive a nuclear explosion. Has been on the car for a year and works great, but was expensive.
On my second conversion I just purchased the needle bearings used in the shaft above and had a machine shop install them into my old manual shaft. The shaft is on the car so I can't take any close-up pics, and again it works great, zero play. I cannot remember where I got the bearings from, the markings on the bearings are:
Torrington DB-79757 EPPPP
I think they cost $2.50 each, I needed 8 and the machine shop charged me an hours labor - Anyway the total was less than $150.
Hope this helps...
11-25-2008, 01:37 AM
#20
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Maybe you can help me out some more. I tried calling Dalton bearings they couldn't understand that part # and they can only look up exact measurements, they can't tell me "what's close". I got my caliper guage out and came up with 19/32" on the U-joint end cap and 1 5/8" on the length. That didn't help me out, they just told me it was propietery and couldn't help.
My next option was to get the "turn key" joints and shaft and make up my own. So now I'm trying to match the yokes. I counted 31 splines (peaks) on the yoke, .67" hole length and about .5" on the key (flat) section. All state they either have 30 or 36 splines. I recounted about 10Xs. If you still have your custom shaft available can you count the splines and measure the input hole and key? I'm wondering if the 30 spline will work. Thanks.
BTW I called Volvo, each u-joint runs about $150. I might hit the junk yards anyway I like the way each u-joint is replacable.
My next option was to get the "turn key" joints and shaft and make up my own. So now I'm trying to match the yokes. I counted 31 splines (peaks) on the yoke, .67" hole length and about .5" on the key (flat) section. All state they either have 30 or 36 splines. I recounted about 10Xs. If you still have your custom shaft available can you count the splines and measure the input hole and key? I'm wondering if the 30 spline will work. Thanks.
BTW I called Volvo, each u-joint runs about $150. I might hit the junk yards anyway I like the way each u-joint is replacable.
11-25-2008, 11:02 AM
#21
Nordschleife Master
Maybe you can help me out some more. I tried calling Dalton bearings they couldn't understand that part # and they can only look up exact measurements, they can't tell me "what's close". I got my caliper guage out and came up with 19/32" on the U-joint end cap and 1 5/8" on the length. That didn't help me out, they just told me it was propietery and couldn't help.
My next option was to get the "turn key" joints and shaft and make up my own. So now I'm trying to match the yokes. I counted 31 splines (peaks) on the yoke, .67" hole length and about .5" on the key (flat) section. All state they either have 30 or 36 splines. I recounted about 10Xs. If you still have your custom shaft available can you count the splines and measure the input hole and key? I'm wondering if the 30 spline will work. Thanks.
BTW I called Volvo, each u-joint runs about $150. I might hit the junk yards anyway I like the way each u-joint is replacable.
My next option was to get the "turn key" joints and shaft and make up my own. So now I'm trying to match the yokes. I counted 31 splines (peaks) on the yoke, .67" hole length and about .5" on the key (flat) section. All state they either have 30 or 36 splines. I recounted about 10Xs. If you still have your custom shaft available can you count the splines and measure the input hole and key? I'm wondering if the 30 spline will work. Thanks.
BTW I called Volvo, each u-joint runs about $150. I might hit the junk yards anyway I like the way each u-joint is replacable.
Any machine shop can remove the bearings in your current shaft, they are just simple U-joints and they press out. You should then be able to find either a part # on the bearing itself or measure them (indide and outside diameter and depth). They are commercially available double sealed needle bearings. Mcmaster has various sizes metric & imperial.
12-30-2008, 04:03 AM
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Sorry it took so long to update...
I went with the Borgeson, Gil Evans was a great help. After recounting the splines on the old shaft and retaking measurements umpteen times, it turned out it's better to measure and count from the steering rack itself. So to save someone the hassle I went through, here's what I got:
2 steel u-joints 3/4DD X 11/16-40
1 18" DD shaft
I cut the shaft to size then did a test fit and almost had a heart attack because the steering would only turn a couple of inches. Then discovered the shaft was barely hitting the inside of the joint. I trimed the shaft so it would be just below the surface. I then marked where the set screws would rest then use a drill to notch the bar, then locked everything down.
All in all the shaft is SOLID. I feel as if I can pick up the car by the shaft (but I won't). It was more than I wanted to spend ($170) but seeing the quality and the peace of mind when I'm going around the track, it's worth it. I won't be on the track again until April but going around the block it feels great. I'll report back if I have any issues (but I dought it).
I went with the Borgeson, Gil Evans was a great help. After recounting the splines on the old shaft and retaking measurements umpteen times, it turned out it's better to measure and count from the steering rack itself. So to save someone the hassle I went through, here's what I got:
2 steel u-joints 3/4DD X 11/16-40
1 18" DD shaft
I cut the shaft to size then did a test fit and almost had a heart attack because the steering would only turn a couple of inches. Then discovered the shaft was barely hitting the inside of the joint. I trimed the shaft so it would be just below the surface. I then marked where the set screws would rest then use a drill to notch the bar, then locked everything down.
All in all the shaft is SOLID. I feel as if I can pick up the car by the shaft (but I won't). It was more than I wanted to spend ($170) but seeing the quality and the peace of mind when I'm going around the track, it's worth it. I won't be on the track again until April but going around the block it feels great. I'll report back if I have any issues (but I dought it).
12-30-2008, 11:21 AM
#24
Nordschleife Master
Sorry it took so long to update...
I went with the Borgeson, Gil Evans was a great help. After recounting the splines on the old shaft and retaking measurements umpteen times, it turned out it's better to measure and count from the steering rack itself. So to save someone the hassle I went through, here's what I got:
2 steel u-joints 3/4DD X 11/16-40
1 18" DD shaft
I cut the shaft to size then did a test fit and almost had a heart attack because the steering would only turn a couple of inches. Then discovered the shaft was barely hitting the inside of the joint. I trimed the shaft so it would be just below the surface. I then marked where the set screws would rest then use a drill to notch the bar, then locked everything down.
All in all the shaft is SOLID. I feel as if I can pick up the car by the shaft (but I won't). It was more than I wanted to spend ($170) but seeing the quality and the peace of mind when I'm going around the track, it's worth it. I won't be on the track again until April but going around the block it feels great. I'll report back if I have any issues (but I dought it).
I went with the Borgeson, Gil Evans was a great help. After recounting the splines on the old shaft and retaking measurements umpteen times, it turned out it's better to measure and count from the steering rack itself. So to save someone the hassle I went through, here's what I got:
2 steel u-joints 3/4DD X 11/16-40
1 18" DD shaft
I cut the shaft to size then did a test fit and almost had a heart attack because the steering would only turn a couple of inches. Then discovered the shaft was barely hitting the inside of the joint. I trimed the shaft so it would be just below the surface. I then marked where the set screws would rest then use a drill to notch the bar, then locked everything down.
All in all the shaft is SOLID. I feel as if I can pick up the car by the shaft (but I won't). It was more than I wanted to spend ($170) but seeing the quality and the peace of mind when I'm going around the track, it's worth it. I won't be on the track again until April but going around the block it feels great. I'll report back if I have any issues (but I dought it).
