Manual steering shaft
#2
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I don't think they are available anymore. We have been modifying and using volvo station wagon steering shafts which are adjustable length.
#4
Race Director
One thing to consider is that the u-joints on the manual and power intermediate shafts are the same, the only difference is that the manual shaft is longer (that's what she said! ). I've often wondered how difficult it would be to buy a new power intermediate shaft and take it to a machine shop and ask them to swap the good joints onto the manual intermediate shaft.
#6
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#7
Nordschleife Master
I have done a lot of research on the topic and have converted two cars myself. On the first one I had www.borgeson.com make me a replica, expensive but of very good quality. I noticed that Borgeson used a needle bearing in their joints that was the same size as the OEM Porsche bearings. So for my next conversion I just bought the bearings from them and had a machine shop install them into my old manual shaft.
Here is what Borgeson says about welded steering components:
"Welding joints is a common practice in racing, however, it is not a method we at BORGESON would recommend. Hairline cracks, which may be all but invisible to the unaided eye, could cause a weld to fail under severe stress. It may also be illegal in some states to weld steering system components on a car used on the street. Improper grounding can cause damage which will result in the failure of the steering. Overheating, which can occur at relatively low temperatures, can distort the yoke and melt the grease out of the needle bearings or damage the seals. This can prevent the joint from operating freely and it may fail. Cooling a weld too quickly can cause cracks, leading to sudden failure. Also, welding is a permanent connection that makes disassembly almost impossible should it become necessary.
NOTICE: Welding on steering components is illegal in some states. Check first."
BTW Borgeson are probably the experts on steering components in the USA, your call, but I would listen to them.
Mike
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#8
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Yes, I had seen Ian's product, but didn't give me the warm and fuzzy. Escpecially since it's going on a race car and would definately take some abuse. Do you remember what size I need? I'll give borgeson a call and see if they can help me.
#9
Nordschleife Master
I did mine a while ago, at the time I spoke to Gil Evans at Borgeson and he was very helpful. I can get you the actual markings and part#'s from the bearings tonight when I get home.
#10
Race Director
Yeah I just put that up as on option, when I did the swap to manual steering awhile back Ian sold me 1 of the last 2 OEM manual shafts he had laying around.
#13
Nordschleife Master
FYI I just remembered that the bearings used by Borgeson where made by Torrington.
Here is a link to a supplier of Torrigton bearings: Torrington/Torrington-Needle-Roller-Bearings
Here is a link to a supplier of Torrigton bearings: Torrington/Torrington-Needle-Roller-Bearings
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#15
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There are 2 steering shafts used in the 80's and 90's volvo's. You want the black one, not the silver aluminum. I was at a pick and pull today, and noticed most of the old boxy volvo's had the correct shaft, for instance, the 240 DL. You just need to cut the slot a little bigger on the ends so it will pinch down.
Disclaimers:
1. Yes that is a 924 rack modified to fit the aluminum crossmember...please ignore, it is for a ratty old widebody track car, lots of modifications necessary to make it work, we won't go down that road again. We also used the same shaft on a 944 manual rack on an LS6 swap, but with the big *** motor in the way, pictures are hard to see.
2. No, i know there is no nut on the through bolt yet, I didn't forget it, rather I still have to drop all that out to put the motor in.
Disclaimers:
1. Yes that is a 924 rack modified to fit the aluminum crossmember...please ignore, it is for a ratty old widebody track car, lots of modifications necessary to make it work, we won't go down that road again. We also used the same shaft on a 944 manual rack on an LS6 swap, but with the big *** motor in the way, pictures are hard to see.
2. No, i know there is no nut on the through bolt yet, I didn't forget it, rather I still have to drop all that out to put the motor in.