Rear Main Seal ???
#1
Instructor
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Boise, Idaho
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Rear Main Seal ???
I'm trying to remove the rear seal on my S2. I've managed to rip a big hole in it with increasingly larger screws (being careful to stay away from both the crank and the case), and also broke off the short end of an allen key in that same hole - but it won't budge. There is a slot machined in the case that looks like it COULD be used for access to the outside of the seal for prying with a screwdriver, but so far I've resisted that temptation - the last thing I want to do is to start tearing up aluminum. Any advice? I know there have been threads on this before - maybe someone could post a link? Thank you!
#2
RL Community Team
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Rennlist Member
I have 3 methods.
1. use a small channel-locking wrench, open it up, and stick the top jaw between the crank and the seal and pry the seal up. Works like a charm.
2. Use the channel-locker or a screwdriver in that slot on the side... works OK sometimes.
3. drill 2 small holes in opposing sides of the seal face, and screw in 2 drywall screws. When they bottom out they will pop the seal out. Works like a charm.
1. use a small channel-locking wrench, open it up, and stick the top jaw between the crank and the seal and pry the seal up. Works like a charm.
2. Use the channel-locker or a screwdriver in that slot on the side... works OK sometimes.
3. drill 2 small holes in opposing sides of the seal face, and screw in 2 drywall screws. When they bottom out they will pop the seal out. Works like a charm.
#3
Team Owner
to remove the rear main take a wide blade screwdriver (not widerthan the slot) and with a sharp hit from a mallet hit the side of the seal inwards ( you want to be careful not to angle the screwdriver to far aft so it wont gouge the crank) press the screwdriver end towards the front of the car and the seal should slide out of its bore.
Once your this farfeel with your finger if there is any deformation of the block where the screwdriver was prying on the side of the slot if so a small stone can be used to dress this down also check the crank for any damage
Once your this farfeel with your finger if there is any deformation of the block where the screwdriver was prying on the side of the slot if so a small stone can be used to dress this down also check the crank for any damage
#5
Rennlist Member
I use that notch and a screw driver...
Using the notch as a guide, hammer the screw driver into the side of the seal, then lever out.
It doesn't damage any of the mating surfaces.
Using the notch as a guide, hammer the screw driver into the side of the seal, then lever out.
It doesn't damage any of the mating surfaces.
#6
Rennlist Member
I went to sears and bought the universal seal removal tool. Works like a charm. Costs like 7 bucks.
Dan C.
Dan C.
Last edited by Smoker324; 11-04-2008 at 05:41 PM. Reason: additon
#7
Geaux Tigers!
Rennlist Member
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After trying the drywall screw method with little success that's the tool I got it with. BTW, to install you can use a PCV pipe end connector that is the size of the RMS. Mount the pipe on a 2x6. Cost about $4. It's either 5" or 6" but bring the seal with you to the hardware store to be sure. Also find one with a rounded wide lip if you can.