Rear toe perma-set
#1
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On my 1987 NA race car the rear toe will not stay set, particularly on the driver's side, which ordinarily gets a little less abuse from running over curbs. The trailing arm just slides back to the rear of the setting. I have a notch where I want it so at the track I periodically loosen the 3 bolts and slide it back where it belongs. I have cranked the bolts to 110lb/ft and it still gets knocked out of whack. Does anybody else have/had this issue or have any ideas on how to prevent it?
TIA
Cheers
Randy
TIA
Cheers
Randy
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Stay off the heavier curbs and bumps, too, if that's your habit...
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I didn't think of bolt stretch - new bolts are an easy thing to try so I will - thanks for the suggestion.
In the front I had the problem of the camber adjusters moving and even welding them wouldn't hold so I got the suspension where I wanted it and got some big heavy washers and ground them flat on 2 sides as a permanent, non-adjustable cam. It has solved that problem so I was considering something similar in the rear, make some sort of spacer to take up the extra room in one of the slots to keep the arm from shifting back. I was hoping somebody had an easier solution.
As crew chief I tell my driver (me) all the time to quit abusing the car and stay off the curbs, as driver I find that just isn't possible!! With no power we momentum guys have to do everything we can to keep our speed up - I'm sure you understand that, Vaughn!
Joonas - I run -2.5 on both sides in the rear.
Cheers
Randy
In the front I had the problem of the camber adjusters moving and even welding them wouldn't hold so I got the suspension where I wanted it and got some big heavy washers and ground them flat on 2 sides as a permanent, non-adjustable cam. It has solved that problem so I was considering something similar in the rear, make some sort of spacer to take up the extra room in one of the slots to keep the arm from shifting back. I was hoping somebody had an easier solution.
As crew chief I tell my driver (me) all the time to quit abusing the car and stay off the curbs, as driver I find that just isn't possible!! With no power we momentum guys have to do everything we can to keep our speed up - I'm sure you understand that, Vaughn!
Joonas - I run -2.5 on both sides in the rear.
Cheers
Randy
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What is the surface finish condition on your spring plates and the trailing arms? You havent had any of the parts refinished or painted recently?
May want to scuff/rough-up or even knurl the spring plate/trailing arm contact surface if this becomes a chronic problem.
May want to scuff/rough-up or even knurl the spring plate/trailing arm contact surface if this becomes a chronic problem.
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The condition is as delivered from the factory + 20 years of use I haven't done anything to them.
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#14
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As a follow up my problem may not be so mysterious. I have used a shop to align the car until now, but with the need for constant attention I got tired of paying and undertook the project myself. I discovered that the outer nut on the camber eccentric (on the opposite end from the swaybar) was cross-threaded or boogered up in some other way. It apperaed to be torqued properly but the whole deal could still rotate around. it was so bad that it took about 5 minutes with an impact to get it off. I've got a new one coming and am optimistic that this should fix it up. I'm posting this as I always like to see what solved other guys' problems.
Joonas - once I get it back together I'll measure the ride height.
Cheers
randy
Joonas - once I get it back together I'll measure the ride height.
Cheers
randy