Jeff928S4

Just got in the car today for the first time in a couple of days (snow on the roads) and when I pushed the clutch pedal in, it only came back about half-way and stopped. About 4 seconds later it "snapped" back up - making a "sprong" sound. It did it a couple of times (car was cold) and stopped doing it.

Is this the rubber-centred clutch going or is my pedal doing this? It feels like a spring or something is making the pedal stick or not retract the whole way.

Suggestions???

944S Boyeee

M758

Nope,
Just a bad clutch master or slave. Can't tell which one, but I replaced both when my race car did the samething.

Jeff928S4

Isn't a slave or master cyc. job as detailed as a clutch job?? Or am I thinking of something else?

I'm gonna go do a search....


944S Boyeee

Ken

The slave/master cylidner job is a piece of cake. It took me about 2-3 hours, and that's alot. I could do it again in probably an hour. Check the archives, there's TONS of posts about it. <img src="graemlins/wave.gif" border="0" alt="[byebye]" />

Jeff928S4

Thing is that I'm not losing any fluid at all - the reservior is topped up.

Could it be a spring on the pedal problem??


944S Boyeee

Tom R.

i have the same thing. started immediately after i replaced the brakes and fluids.

disappeared for the summer, then mysteriously appeared after sitting at my mechanics for about a month waiting for parts with the front raised.

I usually step on the clutch when I start the car (my RX7 starter wont engage unless the clutch is depressed), and have the problem until the car warms up. the problem isnt as bad if I start the car without stepping on the clutch.

I also found the problem occurs around 40deg and below.

I don't think its the slave cylinder, see other posts on the topic. My brother didnt have these symptoms before his slave cylinder died. i think there is a bubble in one of the lines. Did you bleed your lines lately?

There are a few people on the board that had the problem for a long time, and just ignored it. the clutch is engaged, no damage is being done to the car.

again, check the archives, and if you get a definite solution be sure to share it with me/us.

Tom R.

i just re read your original post. you didnt drive yours for a couple of days. maybe it has something to do with sitting?

Jeff928S4

Yea - it sat for 1.5 days and it got REALLY cold here last night.

I have noticed over the last week that the pedal would not have as much "clutch" to it. Before, the pedal would feel stiff on retraction all the way till it stopped. Last week I noticed that it would feel "tight" about half-way up and then very "loose" after that. It was at this point of change between tight to loose that the pedal is now sticking at upon retraction.

Haven't bled the system since I bought it (about 1.5 years ago) and have no clue as to when it was done before. Should I get a powerbleeder for this or do I just need one when I change the slave/master (if I have to, which I most likely will)?

Also, what spring on the pedal assembly can I adjust to make sure it's not the pedal itself?

944S Boyeee

Mike Buck

Sorry to say, but your clutch slave is on its way out. It will appear to "fix" itself, but in the near future it won't and you'll have the puddle under the car to prove it. Been there, done that, paid to have it fixed.

mike

daytrader968

Let me preface this by saying I'm no mechanic. But, a few months ago, my clutch pedal in my 968 wouldn't come all the way up the first 2-3 times releasing it after not driving for 12+ hours. I would pry it up with my toe. Then it would be fine. I bled it and it's been fine since. All the clutch hydraulics were replaced a year ago so my cylinders are OK. I would try bleeding it first, even though it can be a PITA to get all the air out. I would try the cheap stuff first. (the slave cylinder is fairly easy to replace if it comes to that)

jim968

One slim possbility... if the car was driven on wet roads before being parked for 1.5 days, there might have been some ice somewhere in the bell housing interfering wih the movement of the clutch or clutch arm.

But if the pedal continues to feel wonky after everything is _fully_ warmed up, I'd be inclined to suspect the master or slave cylinder, or the possibility of having sucked some air from a low brake fluid reservoir.

As mentioned, there's tons of posts on the bleeding and replacement procedures. And yes, you don't _have_ to have a Power Bleeder, but it's nice.

Jim, "But other than that, Mrs. Hitler, how was the honeymoon?"

iloveporsches

I just did the master/slave job this weekend. This is the first time I actually worked on a car, aside from oil changes. It took maybe 3 hours, 45 minutes of which was me and my friend looking for and then getting to the damn master cylinder. Other than that it's simple.

I'll probably bleed the clutch tonight, so that will add another hour (my dad likes turning simple things into huge projects ).

Luis de Prat

Boyee, as you noted, the hydraulic clutch and brake system share the same reservoir.

It's widely recommended to have the brake fluid changed out at least every two years, more regularly if you track the car.

Over time, moisture and debris contaminate the fluid, making both the brakes and clutch hydraulics less effective.

As has been suggested, I'd get the fluid replaced first and see how it goes, unless you're ready to get the master & slave cylinders done, because they really ought to be done together.

Tom R.

Why do people on this board say replace both? I dont see the relation between the two. The fluid isnt contaminated so that it would corrode both etc. there isnt a relationship for wear like that between a clutch and pressure plate, etc.

Is it that the bleeding is such a PITA that its easier to replace both?

My brother replaced his slave about 30k or 12 months ago, and no news yet about a bad master cylinder.

Why? <img src="confused.gif" border="0">

Luis de Prat

[quote]Originally posted by Tom R.:
<strong>I dont see the relation between the two. &lt;snip&gt; My brother replaced his slave about 30k or 12 months ago, and no news yet about a bad master cylinder.Why? </strong><hr></blockquote>

Any idea how long the master cylinder had been in your brother's car? It may have been replaced before he bought it, hence it's longevity after the slave went out.

Both units share the same hydraulic system, have similar pistons, seals, etc. and work in tandem. Thus, they are likely to wear in tandem as well.

It's too much of a coincidence that so many 944 owners have seen both go bad within less than 1K miles, and it's not much fun to replace just one and have the other go out at an inopportune time and leave you stranded when you could've gotten it out of the way relatively inexpensively when you did the first.