About to dive into a suspension job...
#1
About to dive into a suspension job...
Hey guys.
My new struts and bars should be here by the weekend, and I was getting ready to do the job on sunday.
Ill be installing:
Height adjustable struts with stiffer springs (front)
Adjust. struts (Rear)
Bigger rear torsion bars.
20mm rear anti-sway bar.
Now, Ive done plenty of suspension work on cars, but this being my first time tearing into a 944 (1984). What will I run into, what should I do to prep for it (anything different then normal?), and what tips can you give me to make the job go a little easier. Also, is there a general write up so I can get the order of removal/installation correct?
I have set aside an entire Sunday for the job, which I think is enough. (I can do coilovers on Subie in about three hours.)
I did some searching but came up with little. Thanks for the help.
My new struts and bars should be here by the weekend, and I was getting ready to do the job on sunday.
Ill be installing:
Height adjustable struts with stiffer springs (front)
Adjust. struts (Rear)
Bigger rear torsion bars.
20mm rear anti-sway bar.
Now, Ive done plenty of suspension work on cars, but this being my first time tearing into a 944 (1984). What will I run into, what should I do to prep for it (anything different then normal?), and what tips can you give me to make the job go a little easier. Also, is there a general write up so I can get the order of removal/installation correct?
I have set aside an entire Sunday for the job, which I think is enough. (I can do coilovers on Subie in about three hours.)
I did some searching but came up with little. Thanks for the help.
#2
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Clarks Garage has a write up on t-bar installation and adjustment.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/susp-06.htm
There's apparently a way to remove t-bars without fully removing the rear suspension. It involves loosening things up and tipping the components so the end cap is low enough (below the fender line) to remove the t-bar. I've never seen that written up, but I'd love to see it. The removal of the rear suspension is IMHO a fairly high-end DIY task.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/susp-06.htm
There's apparently a way to remove t-bars without fully removing the rear suspension. It involves loosening things up and tipping the components so the end cap is low enough (below the fender line) to remove the t-bar. I've never seen that written up, but I'd love to see it. The removal of the rear suspension is IMHO a fairly high-end DIY task.
#3
If your not going to completely drop the torsion tube, it's easier to leave the rear shocks attached and do it one side at a time then swap the shocks out. This way also takes about 20 min per side to re-adjust the torsion bar if your initial setting is wrong and can be done easily without a lift.
#5
thanks for all the info guys!
I was mostly interested in the Torson bar removal/installation as this is my first time dealing with this kind of suspension set-up.
aben- could you kindly eMail that to me? (matthewchmielewski@kings.edu) Thanks!
I was mostly interested in the Torson bar removal/installation as this is my first time dealing with this kind of suspension set-up.
aben- could you kindly eMail that to me? (matthewchmielewski@kings.edu) Thanks!
#6
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Sunday might not be enough for your first time with the rear suspension! Still, only way to find out is to do it... enjoy...
#7
Vaughan, are you serious? Im borrowing a garage because mine is loaded with Corvette, so I can only have the one day.
Also, can someone recommend an order of attack?
(i.e.- Front Struts, then Rear Torsion, then Rear struts, then rear sway)
Also, can someone recommend an order of attack?
(i.e.- Front Struts, then Rear Torsion, then Rear struts, then rear sway)
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#8
I would do the T-bars first myself. I recently did my first t-bar replacement with reindexing and it took me 6 hours of working... And that was working fairly laid back... But that is also with a lift, air tools, and an engine table to set the suspension on and lower it down. On your back it will take longer.
Mark
Mark
#11
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it took me a whole weekend, and i'd done them before. presuming you're doing it with jackstands, i would highly recommend having one or two spare jacks on hand for certain things. some times things just don't want to go back together the same way they came apart, and it helps to use the extra jacks (vs. the weight of the car) to gain a mechanical advantage. i'm not talking about forcing a square peg into a round hole, but if you want to be able to raise your arms the next day, use the jacks when possible.
clearly you know what you're doing, but i don't think this tip is out of line for anyone: have lots of rags and simple green ready (especially if you decide to drop the tube). it's rare that you'll have the opportunity to (let alone want to) access some of these places again.
clearly you know what you're doing, but i don't think this tip is out of line for anyone: have lots of rags and simple green ready (especially if you decide to drop the tube). it's rare that you'll have the opportunity to (let alone want to) access some of these places again.
#13
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With time, it comes down, but not that much...
I agree, tackle the t-bars first... the front's much easier, come back to it.
You aren't planning on driving the car till it's all done, right?
#14
Mark