I've actually never used a dremel lol. wouldn't it be dangerous if those cutting wheels shatter at 35,000 rpm? obviuosly I'll wear eye protection while cutting but I don't want a cutting wheel flying into my face at 35k rpm.


do you know what kind of blad you need for cutting into thick steel?

 

yeah that was my thought. It's not like I own a ultra rare mint condition museum piece 944 that will one day be worth thousands of dollars and then they'll look at it and be like oh no he cut the spare tire area that'll take 10 grand off the value.

to me it's just a car and if it's sitting on jackstands it's not serving it's purpose which is to take me places.

I'm still going to try and cut the coupler, cutting the car is the last resort. you would have to weld it back on or else you'll have a pretty massive ehxaust leak in the cabin which would kill you.

 

I wouldn't use a cutting disc- a bit too risky, IMO. I've had a few break and fly violently around my face (wearing goggles of course) and I would rather not go through that again.

Use a sawzall or an air nibbler.

 

get under the car, have someone turn the hub where the cv joint attaches...perhaps the splines are out of alignment.

 

^ tried that didn't help.

at this point getting something in there and cutting it off would save me a lot of time.

yes I did think a thin cutting disk would be a bit risky, don't want to get hit in the face with a cutting disk shattering as I'll have to do the cutting from under the car lying on my back through that inspection window.

what about using a dremel and a grinding stone on it? would it be possible to grind through the coupler?

 

I really think you have to give this project over to the pro's. I have a lift under my car and did the clutch but what you need doing is beyond my capability. Sometimes you gotta say uncle.

 

kind of too late for that now lol.

the tranny is stuck out and still attached to the coupler and supported by a jack. the trans doesn't want to go back in the bellhousing now due to the coupler being stuck. you can't really tow a car with the tranny hanging by the coupler......

if that trans comes out I'm sure I can manage the rest.

I just don't want to keep on wasting more and more money... I already spent 160 bucks on that atv jack and bought a bunch of tools (cheeshead bit/ 8mm /10 mmbits/ extension).

 

can you get a sawzall in there?

 

I'm pretty sure you can get long hacksaw blades (9 inch IIRC) for a sawzall. Perhaps you can rent one? BTW, a sawzall is essentially a power hacksaw (with appropriate blade). I beleive the gap between the end of the trans input shaft and drive shaft is mid-way between front and back of the inspection cavity. Or do a search to see where you can buy one in your area.

 

I did a search for "sawzall" on google and it's just a reciprocal saw correct?

those things are way too big I have to do the cutting while lying on my back under the car. Now theres even less space under the car with the atv jack holding up the trans, jackstands holding the rear end up and ramps under the front tires. I'm starting to feel a bit claustrophobic under there lol.


I'd have to cut lying on my back through that inspection hole so I need a small tool.

I'll look tomorrow and see if it is possible to cut through the space between teh bellhousing and trans (trans is pulled back) but I doub it.


a dremel with a snake attachment I can probably get into that inspection hole.

if I use a dremel I'll probable wear a face shield but like I said the space under the car is getting very cramped and I don't have much room to move under there.

 

I have a Sawzall with a bi-metal blade that extends at least 12" past the mount. I know that it would reach at least one side of the coupling through the inspection hole even if I had to turn the guard sideways to get it into the inspection opening and then twist it back square. Having someone slowing turn one wheel while in gear would make short order of that coupling. If you aren't sure where the center point of the two shafts is just measure where the coupling was before you moved it and add that to half the length of the coupling. There has to be some sort of mark left on the TA side of the shaft to start that dimension from.

I don't know why I keep posting here but I'm a sucker for abuse.

 

I may have to try and move the coupler forward towards teh trans again (to originally where it was) to even be able to cut it. righ tnow it's pushed all the way to the trans side and doesn't want to budge back so any cutting device may not even reach it.

anyways first I"ll try lowering and lfiting the trans again to get it as level as possible then try smacking that coupler back to the trans side.

the atv jack I bought sucks. you can't slowly lower the trans like my floor jack when I try to lower it it drops too quickly and my trans was pulling and bending that coupler still attached to the torque tube and I had to quickly raise it up again. 150 pounds handing on the coupler / tq tube can't be very good.

right now I think I can see the trans shaft still stuck in the coupler for only another couple centimeters.

 

get a cold chisel and a 2 pound small sledge hammer and start whacking!

do you have a PROPER pry bar? they are worth their weight in gold for a project like this.

 

How is it coming along? I am in the Van area too, and will take the car off your hands as - is, with the TA hanging off the TT and stuck on the coupler etc. for say... $800.

 

Its not a good sign when buzzards are circling above your wagon train.