triscadek

Several months ago my drivers door stopped locking from the CLS button or locking/unlocking the pass. door with the key. If I push the CLS switch the pass. door will lock then unlock and the drivers door will do nothing, if both doors are locked and I push the CLS button neither door will unlock but I can hear a "tunk" somewhere, I can lock/unlock the drivers door with a key and the pass. door will do the same.

I have replaced the CLS control box and the drivers door power lock actuator (motor) and plastic linkage rods and nothing has changed. I know that the actuator may be not adjusted correctly but if the actuator is not mounted in the door shouldn't it still operate if it's plugged in?

If I put a test light to the plug I don't beleive that the actuator is getting a signal, could the switch be doing this? Any other ideas?

EDIT: Post # 928 am I on the correct board?

Luis de Prat

I'm going to be looking into this myself, soon. From a past thread, I recall it was important to make sure the door microswitch was properly grounded.

Let us know what you find. BTW, I thought the CLS control boxes were repairable. Did you open yours at all to check if it was beyond repair?

If you could post any pics of your work it would be great.

P.S. Post #968, not my car but almost!

triscadek

I took my 1st control box to the CB radio shop that resoldered my cruise box and fixed that, but didn't help the CLS box.

Funny how the #'s hit.

dave120

I had this problem with my car a couple months back. If it stops working from the switch and from the pass door, but still locks with the key in the drivers door, your problem is a little $3 plastic clip that connects the door lock to the central locking system in the door.

They tend to break after a while, or actually mine didn't break they just slipped off. These things are cheap but they're also a PITA to change because you can't really see in there, you just have to feel around and eventually get it on. Good luck!

Luis de Prat

So, if my passenger side door lock is the one not being activated by the CLS button, then you would suspect the plastic clip in the passenger door being at fault?

Driver side door lock will make both doors open and shut with the ignition key.

TIA

dave120

Yeah both of mine were messed up. I only replaced the passenger side because it was a PITA and I never lock the doors from the passenger side, so the one in my driver door is still off.

If the passenger side won't lock with the button or with the key in the driver door then it would be that clip, but you said it WILL lock and unlock if you use the key in the driver door? If the little clip is off the passenger door shouldn't work with either the key in the driver door or with the CLS button..maybe you're chasing a different problem.

Luis de Prat

That's right. Both locks open and close normally by using the key from the driver side. From the passenger side, only that lock will open and close.

If I press the CLS button, the driver side door locks, but the passenger does not. If I press again to unlock, the driver side lock stays shut and I must manually open it to get out of the car.

Pretty crazy, these CLS circuits!

Kevin R.

This is near the exact problem I have but no real solution was given here so I wanted to resurrect this post for two reasons...

1. Central Locks.
2. How it relates to Arming the Alarm Unit.

1. In my case, BOTH the driver's and passenger's side locks successfully using the key. When in the car with the key in the on or start position, the central lock button is lit and only makes a loud "tunk" sound when depressed. IT will not activate the locking or unlocking of the doors. What's the cause?

2. Does this affect the proper arming of the vehicles alarm system? The only reason I ask is, are both LED lock pins suppose to light up? And are they not suppose to go out when the door is open? My driver's side flashes all the time. There is no flash coming from the passenger's door at any time.

ROG100

Kevin,
My first guess is to check the two small in line fuses .5 amp located behind the fuse/relay panel. Pull wires at the top until you find them.
Try locking the doors with the window open and then lean in and try opening the doors - that will tell you if the alarm is armed or not.
Both LED lights should be on.
Roger

Kevin R.

Roger...

Okay, just got back up from doing what you suggested.

Here is what I found... nothing. I pulled the CE panel out and looked diligently about the underside and saw no inline fuses anywhere. The top section has wires and their corresponding flat male pins, the mid-body has the back of the relay blocks, and the bottom of course is where all the main lettered connectors are.

As to the alarm LED, I will run this once I put the CE panel back. On those door LED's, if one dies, where exactly are they located? Can they be replaced separately or are they a part of the door assembly or pin?

Thank again...

Kevin R.

Does anyone else besides me have NO inline fuses behind the CE panel on a MY 1990 928?