Wurth's paint for phone dials: don't do like I done, mon
05-10-2002, 07:41 PM
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Wurth's paint for phone dials: don't do like I done, mon
OK, so I'm taking a day off and putzing with the car. I fixed the remote release to the hatch (thanks Hans), took 10 minutes, I changed the brake fluid to ATE superblue with one of those pressure bleeders, worked great, brakes are even firmer than before. Super. So I decide: I got the big MO goin', I am in the groove, I'll paint one wheel. Got the paint, got the sandpaper, I'm on it.
So I clean the thing, sand the thing, mask the thing, everything's sweet, I paint it with the Wurth's paint, and it looks TERRIFIC. I am so happy. I am wondering why people have a hard time with this, it went so easily, I am feeling like King Sh*t, and I wander off for an hour to play with the dog.
After an hour it seems nice and dry. No tack. No resistance to a finger slid across the surface. Doesn't dent to a fingernail. So I think: Clearcoat time.
MISTAKE.
The clearcoat immediately melted the paint, made the metal content obey gravity for awhile, the wheel went from looking PERFECT to looking like a metallic piece of runny crap. I am so pissed (at myself). So I wiped off the runs, sanded, and have re-done the Wurth's, but it still looks bad, better than before I started on my excellent adventure, but like a distinctly amateurish crappy this-guy-didn't-know-what-he-was-doing job.
Moral: let that Wurth's stuff dry OVERNIGHT before clearcoating.
Thaddeus <img src="graemlins/cussing.gif" border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" />
So I clean the thing, sand the thing, mask the thing, everything's sweet, I paint it with the Wurth's paint, and it looks TERRIFIC. I am so happy. I am wondering why people have a hard time with this, it went so easily, I am feeling like King Sh*t, and I wander off for an hour to play with the dog.
After an hour it seems nice and dry. No tack. No resistance to a finger slid across the surface. Doesn't dent to a fingernail. So I think: Clearcoat time.
MISTAKE.
The clearcoat immediately melted the paint, made the metal content obey gravity for awhile, the wheel went from looking PERFECT to looking like a metallic piece of runny crap. I am so pissed (at myself). So I wiped off the runs, sanded, and have re-done the Wurth's, but it still looks bad, better than before I started on my excellent adventure, but like a distinctly amateurish crappy this-guy-didn't-know-what-he-was-doing job.
Moral: let that Wurth's stuff dry OVERNIGHT before clearcoating.
Thaddeus <img src="graemlins/cussing.gif" border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" />
05-10-2002, 08:20 PM
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eek!
I was wanting to paint my phonedials as well, what color are you going with and what type of clearcoat, i want to do mine in white as my car is white, do think that would be to cheesy or should i do them in a silver/metallic color, similiar to stock?
I was wanting to paint my phonedials as well, what color are you going with and what type of clearcoat, i want to do mine in white as my car is white, do think that would be to cheesy or should i do them in a silver/metallic color, similiar to stock?
05-10-2002, 09:32 PM
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I was going for stock. Wurth's silver, Wurth's Clear Coat. I'm told that's what Porsche used, which is why I used it. I don't think Porsche would like the stucco finish on mine though. 
Thaddeus
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05-10-2002, 10:22 PM
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Phone dials should be silver! Save the white/red/black for Fuchs or similar wheels, IMHO!
<img src="graemlins/cussing.gif" border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" />
<img src="graemlins/cussing.gif" border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" />
05-10-2002, 11:43 PM
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I did the exact same thing last weekend. There are no instructions on the Wurth's paint cans saying anything about when to apply clear coat. I now have three painted wheels that look great and one in need of a complete re-sanding. I will try to clear the three good ones this weekend.
05-11-2002, 12:29 AM
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[quote]Originally posted by AndyK:
<strong>Phone dials should be silver! Save the white/red/black for Fuchs or similar wheels, IMHO!
<img src="graemlins/cussing.gif" border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" /> </strong><hr></blockquote>
Mine are a Zermatt like color I beleive. I really like them like this!
<strong>Phone dials should be silver! Save the white/red/black for Fuchs or similar wheels, IMHO!
<img src="graemlins/cussing.gif" border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" /> </strong><hr></blockquote>
Mine are a Zermatt like color I beleive. I really like them like this!
05-11-2002, 05:28 AM
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NO NO NO.. you want to clear coat when the paint is STILL WET.. and you HAVE to do it in the SUN.. if you do it in the SHADE it will crackle and peel.. immediatley after painting.
WET PAINT, SUNLIGHT.. TRUST ME ON THIS.
SHAUN
WET PAINT, SUNLIGHT.. TRUST ME ON THIS.
SHAUN
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05-11-2002, 09:13 AM
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Sorry to stick my nose in guys, but just had to answer this.
You do not want to spray clear coat on wet basecoat,especially on a metalic color.First of all the metallic particules will move or"float" on you, just as you described happening.Second, the solvents that are trying to "wick" or evaporate out of the basecoat will be trapped,causing fisheyes(small pinholes) in the clearcoat and later adhesions problems for the paint.
Go to Home Depot and buy a $20.00 heat gun , after spraying a lite coat , gently run the heat gun over the basecoat (careful not to get to close and scorch it).Then apply another coat medium coat, repeat drying process.The problem with spraycans is that they do not atomize as well as high dollar sprayguns, and load up the paint on the surface of the painted object not allowing the basecoat to dry fully.
Finally after the clearcoat has had some time to dry(15-30 minutes, generally) , then lightly go over it with the heatgun(once again not to close and scorch it). This will help "bake" the finish and help it withstand the higher temps of the wheel in operation.
Hope this helps, I have painted a lot of wheels this way professionally and it has always worked for me.
Stepehn
You do not want to spray clear coat on wet basecoat,especially on a metalic color.First of all the metallic particules will move or"float" on you, just as you described happening.Second, the solvents that are trying to "wick" or evaporate out of the basecoat will be trapped,causing fisheyes(small pinholes) in the clearcoat and later adhesions problems for the paint.
Go to Home Depot and buy a $20.00 heat gun , after spraying a lite coat , gently run the heat gun over the basecoat (careful not to get to close and scorch it).Then apply another coat medium coat, repeat drying process.The problem with spraycans is that they do not atomize as well as high dollar sprayguns, and load up the paint on the surface of the painted object not allowing the basecoat to dry fully.
Finally after the clearcoat has had some time to dry(15-30 minutes, generally) , then lightly go over it with the heatgun(once again not to close and scorch it). This will help "bake" the finish and help it withstand the higher temps of the wheel in operation.
Hope this helps, I have painted a lot of wheels this way professionally and it has always worked for me.
Stepehn
05-11-2002, 09:29 AM
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Stephen,
You're not sticking your nose in, you're sharing experience. That's what the board is for.
Would you apply the heat gun to the metal paint too? I was unclear from your description above whether it only applied to the clearcoat.
I am going to experiment today on pieces of sheet metal. Probably shoulda done that first anyway... I will try the Shaun method and the Stephen method. I already know the Thaddeus method bites mud clods.
Thaddeus
You're not sticking your nose in, you're sharing experience. That's what the board is for.
Would you apply the heat gun to the metal paint too? I was unclear from your description above whether it only applied to the clearcoat.
I am going to experiment today on pieces of sheet metal. Probably shoulda done that first anyway... I will try the Shaun method and the Stephen method. I already know the Thaddeus method bites mud clods.
Thaddeus
05-11-2002, 11:29 AM
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Whoa! I've painted my phone-dials with GREAT sucess using the Wurth Silver Laquer. I talked to an auto painter before I started and found out the clear-coat is in the paint. One can, as Shlag indicated.
I learned that if you put a couple of light base coats on the wheels holding the can about a foot away..... then lightly steel-wool the basecoat with fine or superfine steel-wool.... then final coat with the can 4 to 6 inches from the surface the paint comes out PERFECT! Let the wheels dry in a relatively dry place overnight. (These tips came from the auto-painter guy). The technical parts:
The clearcoat part of the paint in the can has a higher volatile vapor-pressure. So, if the can is farther away, the clearcoat 'evaporates' before adhering to the surface. You get denser paint on the wheel, the lighter clearcoat isn't seen. Conversely, holding the can really close allows the clearcoat portion of the mix to land on the surface of the wheel with the paint, 'float' to the surface, and then quicky off-gas to blend with the paint. The trick is to apply the final coat very thin in application, or you get runs. I kept the wheels flat on the ground with the face pointing upward. This allowed for uniform off-gassing and, if there were any runs, they were easy to catch and fix. Be sure to shake the can for 5 to ten minutes before spraying. Yes, ten minutes is a long time to shake a can, but the mix is WAY better. Finally, a really light brushing with superfine steel-wool or polishing with a medium to light rubbing compound will bring out bright luster. Wax the wheels after polishing and the brake-dust you eventually accumulate rinses off with water.
The other 944 guys in the PCA here are always asking me who re-painted my wheels for me. Should I tell 'em the truth?
I learned that if you put a couple of light base coats on the wheels holding the can about a foot away..... then lightly steel-wool the basecoat with fine or superfine steel-wool.... then final coat with the can 4 to 6 inches from the surface the paint comes out PERFECT! Let the wheels dry in a relatively dry place overnight. (These tips came from the auto-painter guy). The technical parts:
The clearcoat part of the paint in the can has a higher volatile vapor-pressure. So, if the can is farther away, the clearcoat 'evaporates' before adhering to the surface. You get denser paint on the wheel, the lighter clearcoat isn't seen. Conversely, holding the can really close allows the clearcoat portion of the mix to land on the surface of the wheel with the paint, 'float' to the surface, and then quicky off-gas to blend with the paint. The trick is to apply the final coat very thin in application, or you get runs. I kept the wheels flat on the ground with the face pointing upward. This allowed for uniform off-gassing and, if there were any runs, they were easy to catch and fix. Be sure to shake the can for 5 to ten minutes before spraying. Yes, ten minutes is a long time to shake a can, but the mix is WAY better. Finally, a really light brushing with superfine steel-wool or polishing with a medium to light rubbing compound will bring out bright luster. Wax the wheels after polishing and the brake-dust you eventually accumulate rinses off with water.
The other 944 guys in the PCA here are always asking me who re-painted my wheels for me. Should I tell 'em the truth?
05-11-2002, 02:01 PM
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ONCE AGAIN... try it in the SUNLIGHT when the paint is wet... you only need a LIGHT base coat and HEAVY coats of clear.. going overboard with the base will make the clear sink into it and SWIRL the mettalic as posted above.. and ALSO, my wheels are a mettallic color.
SHAUN