C4KIWI

I bought the rear wheel bearing removal tool ($250)and after getting the hub and inner races out I discover that the inside edge of the outer bearing shell is covered (by flange - part of trailing arm)so that the tool cannot engage and extract it. Apparently not all 951 are like this as the tool is designed to extract all parts of the bearing.
Has anyone else encountered this problem and what's the best way to drive the shell out of the trailing arm? I'm trying to not have to remove the arm off the car.Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks Bern Wilson

Bri Bro

I just replace mine but I need to see a picture of what you are talking about. I just pushed the entire bearing out and then pressed a new one in. I had the arms removed from the car.

Marcus

I think you should be able to push it out by pressing against the smaller inner race.

Cheers,

C4KIWI

The inner parts of the bearing are out - half came out with the hub. All I'm looking at is the outer shell still in the arm. On the inboard side none of the shell is visible to get the extraction washer onto. In fact the washer will not fit through the hole in the arm from the inboard side and it is slightly smaller in diameter than the bearing.
I'm thinking that I'm going to have to drill some of the inboard flange away to get a drift or punch onto the shell and drive it out......Does this sound familiar??

MadMax

First of all, by your signature I am guessing that you have an '86 Turbo. That being the case I don't know why you felt the need to purchase a tool that you don't need. IIRC, the '86 turbo has steel trailing arms not alloy arms. If you have steel rear trailing arms then you do not need a special bearing extraction tool. If you have alloy arms then you should refer to my bearing removal procedure on Paragon's tech session.

<a href="http://www.paragon-products.com" target="_blank">www.paragon-products.com</a>

If you supply a picture I will be able to help you out.

Regards,
Max

eclou

My 86 951 has alloy bannanas, not steel.

Eugene

MadMax

thanks Eugene. I couldn't remember if the '86's has alloy or steel. Anyway, eclou please check out the tech-session article. It should help you out.

Doug Donsbach

The inner shell you refer to should still have a raised center section that the outside inner race and ball bearings ride on. You need to put that race and the bearings back in there and use that to pull on with the tool. It will help a lot if you heat the arm to 250F as the manual asks you to do. Without doing this, you will find it pretty difficult to pull that sleeve from the arm.

Danno

"the '86 turbo has steel trailing arms not alloy arms."

Uhhh... the '86 Turbo has the aluminium arms. Only the '85 Turbos had the steel arms along with the early square dash. Some of the really, really early developmental Turbos had 15' Phone Dials with NA brakes too...

C4KIWI

Thanks for the input on this situation. The arms are Al, and I'll try to put the smaller inner race and ***** back inside to pull on. I will have to use the smaller washer supplied with the tool as the large one will not fit inside the outer shell. The technical article on Paragon's site advised to use the large washer, but the opening in the arm on the inboard side is smaller than the washer which means that the washer cannot contact the bearing shell. Thanks for the help and any other suggestions would be appreciated.
Bern Wilson

Bri Bro

Pic of a 86 951 control arm.

The back side of the arm.


The front of the arm with the split ring installed that retains the bearing.


The #12 washer or plate from a side view.

The washer installed in the bearing, tight fit.


The way the rest of the tool would be assembled to pull the bearing.


WITH the tappered adapter ring, thanks Max


This setup worked, the bearings in the pictures are new.

MadMax

The above pic shows the tool that I used to remove/install my bearings and therefore the tool detailed in the tech-session procedure I wrote. The numbers on the two disks that you should have are #12 (large disk) and #14 (small disk). It will work if you follow the procedure. Also, look at the instructions that came with the tool. It should detail removal for various german vehicles. BTW, there should also be a tappered adapter ring (not shown in the pic) that goes up against the outboard side of the trailing arm to help keep the 3" spacer ring from slipping and driving the entire tool off at an angle.

That tool is worth every penny.

Good luck.

Max

MadMax

Here are a couple of pics of the Bearing Removal/Install tool and the two disks used to push/squeeze the bearing out of the trailing arm.





I hope this helps some of you guys out there that want to know about this tool. It works very well.

Best Regards,
Max

C4KIWI

Max thanks a ton for the pics and general help. I finally concluded that the only way to press the bearing out is to use the smaller washer #14 and act on the inner race. It worked and I have it all back together. It's hard to tell looking at your rear arm but it does look different on the inboard side. Mine has a "flange" cast into the arm which has a internal diameter less than the #12 washer so that one can't be used to extract the shell. It does work to press the new bearing back in just fine. Maybe you could add this note to your procedure. Perhaps mine is an early 86 or something that had a different casting. If I can figure out how to post a pic I'll show you the internals of my arm.
Thanks a lot
Bern.

Bri Bro

The P/N I see on the casting is 951.331.514.00 The last 0 is raised so this must be the revision number. The next number is 0056 1 86 which might be a date code. The last number is 951.331.514.0R were R is the revision number in the first set.