Yummybud924

I have an 85.5 944 and I phoned my porsche parts suplier and they can't find a listing for a 944 timing belt tensioner stud. If I can find out what the porsche part number is they might be able to get it for me.

also I know clarks recommends replacing this stud and a few others have done it here. Is it easy to get the stud to come out or does it usually seize and break when you try and remove it? I'm deciding whether to try and do it myself or pay to have it done. The porsche shop told me 3 hours labour if the stud does not break.

OhioState944

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...75&itemquant=1

PN 944.102.216.01

Mine broke but fortunately I didn't bend any valves. Do a quick search and you'll find my thread. There was also another thread recently about the tensioner stud by another guy who had his break.

Yummybud924

thanks.

so did you replace teh stud yourself? is it easy to get out? I don't want to end up drilling it out.

Mike C.

Mine broke a while back and I was lucky an easy-out worked. I seem to recall using a torch to warm up the area around it since (I was told) it is held in with heavy duty Loctite.

Yummybud924

so they used red loctite on it? if so I'll just pay my porsche shop to replace it as I'll probably break the stud and then I'll have to curse for hours to try and drill it out and then it'll turn into a huge job.

i remember reading on clarks garage to nut use loctite on the stud.

thanks.

Calmchaos

Yup........ lol.

FRporscheman

On my '86 turbo engine the stud came out very easily. If it did have loctite on it, it definitely was not red, possibly blue, but it did come out very easily. I just used the double-nut method, near the base of the stud (to prevent twisting).

StoogeMoe

Mine didn't have loctite on it and came out easily too. Maybe you can just give it a try, and if it doesn't come out easily, then give up and pay the man.

Yummybud924

has anyone tried a stud remover? I sell one at my work. it grabs onto the stud and probably chews it upbut you can use a ratched to put more torque on it.

also to remove the stud do I have to remove the rear timing belt cover / the crankshaft bolt etc? it's been a while since did the timing belt i forget.

also I don't have a tensioning tool so i'll have to use the kricket tool and tow it to a shop to have the tension checked.

the shop told me it would cost around 280 bucks to replace the stud and if replacing the belt maybe more not sure. if the stud breaks it will cost more than that. not sure if i'll save too much by doing it myself as i'll have to pay to have the belt tensioned and also may have to tow it to a shop.

m73m95

I wouldn't use the stud remover.

I have a snap on one, and the only time I use it is when the threads are chewed up on the stud I'm trying to remove (so I can't double nut it). Sometimes they'll get cocked on the stud, and it breaks (especially when you're really cranking on it).

The double nut is the way to go.

Calmchaos

If the double nut doesn't work for me it's pipe wrench time.