The Iceman cometh !
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Berkshire uk
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The Iceman cometh !
Hey yall,
Just following one of my previous poosts about ICE,
Wanna run some ideas past ya, kewlllllll
(dont forget this is going in a cab.)
1) fit Phoenix line driver, to raise noise floor
2) fit capacitors
3) Replace door panals for 10spkr panals
4) 3 way MB quart's, to run from the head unit as is with no amplification - for staging and lo-level running, the tweeter and 10cm mid-range in front door (where the armrest is) 16cm mid-bass in rear passenger door
5) replace front (6x9) front door speaker with 8" MB quart run from a rockford fosgate amp
6) in boot, Pair of 12" JBL subs (sealed) run from another rockford fosgate amp.
question ? each amp either 50watt(RMS) x 2 OR 100watt(RMS) x2
preference ? amp with FIXED crossover or Variable Crossover
I really want an eq as well not sure wether I'd need it or be able to get any great effect from it. (15channel Phoenix), the eq'd signal would go to each amp (with it owns crossover) or would the amp's own crossover and headunits mid/top/bass adjustment be ok
cheers
Just following one of my previous poosts about ICE,
Wanna run some ideas past ya, kewlllllll
(dont forget this is going in a cab.)
1) fit Phoenix line driver, to raise noise floor
2) fit capacitors
3) Replace door panals for 10spkr panals
4) 3 way MB quart's, to run from the head unit as is with no amplification - for staging and lo-level running, the tweeter and 10cm mid-range in front door (where the armrest is) 16cm mid-bass in rear passenger door
5) replace front (6x9) front door speaker with 8" MB quart run from a rockford fosgate amp
6) in boot, Pair of 12" JBL subs (sealed) run from another rockford fosgate amp.
question ? each amp either 50watt(RMS) x 2 OR 100watt(RMS) x2
preference ? amp with FIXED crossover or Variable Crossover
I really want an eq as well not sure wether I'd need it or be able to get any great effect from it. (15channel Phoenix), the eq'd signal would go to each amp (with it owns crossover) or would the amp's own crossover and headunits mid/top/bass adjustment be ok
cheers
#2
Race Car
I have a question for you... HOW DID YOU GET 6X9s INTO THE DOORS?????? <img src="graemlins/oops.gif" border="0" alt="[oops]" />
Skip the EQ, they are used primarily to make up for the shortcomings of cheap speakers, MB Quarts shouldn't need any EQ.
Skip the EQ, they are used primarily to make up for the shortcomings of cheap speakers, MB Quarts shouldn't need any EQ.
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Berkshire uk
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey Dave,
fronts 6x whatever they are the "standard" issue porker spkrs.
Eq's had been told that, but my understanding of an eq' is to give you the best sound for the area the music is being played in.
So you could have the best sppkrs going, but put them in a "bad" room or accoustically challanged "car area" you wont get the best outta them. Thats how I understand it anyway.
cheers
fronts 6x whatever they are the "standard" issue porker spkrs.
Eq's had been told that, but my understanding of an eq' is to give you the best sound for the area the music is being played in.
So you could have the best sppkrs going, but put them in a "bad" room or accoustically challanged "car area" you wont get the best outta them. Thats how I understand it anyway.
cheers
#4
Pro
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Cambridge and Miami
Posts: 588
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
And there's no worse environment than a car, to many variables involved unfortunatly, the way I used to think, that any extra component lessened the overall quailty of the system, this was proved in Bernie Gee's BMW (sound off winner for a whole season) when he fan a Nak CD, Punch X2 amp and two 12's and Uni Q's front and rear.
Only problem you might have is running sub frequencies in front and rear from different size speakers, apparantly a real no no, cancelling out each other at around 180 Hz loseing snare and kick drum.
Have an active x-over so you can filter lower freq to front and control overall system to your spec not what manufactures think you need to hear, that way if you get tired of the sound you can change it to sound deeper - basier - sharper or whatever you want, and you'll still have some control with your head unit.
Only problem you might have is running sub frequencies in front and rear from different size speakers, apparantly a real no no, cancelling out each other at around 180 Hz loseing snare and kick drum.
Have an active x-over so you can filter lower freq to front and control overall system to your spec not what manufactures think you need to hear, that way if you get tired of the sound you can change it to sound deeper - basier - sharper or whatever you want, and you'll still have some control with your head unit.
#5
Race Car
[quote]Originally posted by adrian jay:
<strong>Hey Dave,
fronts 6x whatever they are the "standard" issue porker spkrs.
cheers</strong><hr></blockquote>
4x6 is the standard door speaker, which poses a new question. If you put 8" drivers there, how far will the window go down? I hope you have a plan for this, clearance is less than 2" IIRC with the little 4x6s, if you get 8s to work there, post pics 'cause we'll all want to do it
As for using an EQ to make up for the room, I have heard of this, but to do it right requires spectrum anylizers and noise generators. For the hobbyist(IMHO)this is a waste of time and money as any adjustment is a trade off, and any extra piece of equipment will lower your s/n ratio and raise your noise floor.
<strong>Hey Dave,
fronts 6x whatever they are the "standard" issue porker spkrs.
cheers</strong><hr></blockquote>
4x6 is the standard door speaker, which poses a new question. If you put 8" drivers there, how far will the window go down? I hope you have a plan for this, clearance is less than 2" IIRC with the little 4x6s, if you get 8s to work there, post pics 'cause we'll all want to do it
As for using an EQ to make up for the room, I have heard of this, but to do it right requires spectrum anylizers and noise generators. For the hobbyist(IMHO)this is a waste of time and money as any adjustment is a trade off, and any extra piece of equipment will lower your s/n ratio and raise your noise floor.
#6
Race Director
You can get adapter shims that space the 6x9 speakers above the surface of the door panel. That gives you an extra 1" or so of clearance in back for the window...
#7
Race Car
[quote]Originally posted by Danno:
<strong>You can get adapter shims that space the 6x9 speakers above the surface of the door panel. That gives you an extra 1" or so of clearance in back for the window...</strong><hr></blockquote>
Danno,Isn't the dash in the way? I only have about 1/4" between the top corner of my 4x6 and the dash. I really don't want to keep sounding negative here, but I just don't see it, I hope I'm wrong as I'd like to put a larger speaker in my own door(6 1/2" would be nice).
<strong>You can get adapter shims that space the 6x9 speakers above the surface of the door panel. That gives you an extra 1" or so of clearance in back for the window...</strong><hr></blockquote>
Danno,Isn't the dash in the way? I only have about 1/4" between the top corner of my 4x6 and the dash. I really don't want to keep sounding negative here, but I just don't see it, I hope I'm wrong as I'd like to put a larger speaker in my own door(6 1/2" would be nice).
Trending Topics
#8
Race Director
Well, I was thinking of keeping that corner near the dash roughy in the same spot, but putting all the extra size lower and towards the rear of the car. You can even make one of these spacer rings from wood to try out. Then just position it on the door-panel to see where the best fit would be. Then take off the panel and check the clearance depth behind it.
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Berkshire uk
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
[quote]Originally posted by Dave:
4x6 is the standard door speaker, which poses a new question. If you put 8" drivers there, how far will the window go down? I hope you have a plan for this, clearance is less than 2" IIRC with the little 4x6s, if you get 8s to work there, post pics 'cause we'll all want to do it
cab is different, no large window going down all the way along it's length, has a front quarter (fixed) glass panal
As for using an EQ to make up for the room, I have heard of this, but to do it right requires spectrum anylizers and noise generators.
got that, already so setting up is not a problem
For the hobbyist(IMHO)this is a waste of time and money as any adjustment is a trade off, and any extra piece of equipment will lower your s/n ratio and raise your noise floor.
Hopefully the line drivers will already have rasied this substantially so this "shouldnt be a problem,
Though the jury is still out on this one
<hr></blockquote>
4x6 is the standard door speaker, which poses a new question. If you put 8" drivers there, how far will the window go down? I hope you have a plan for this, clearance is less than 2" IIRC with the little 4x6s, if you get 8s to work there, post pics 'cause we'll all want to do it
cab is different, no large window going down all the way along it's length, has a front quarter (fixed) glass panal
As for using an EQ to make up for the room, I have heard of this, but to do it right requires spectrum anylizers and noise generators.
got that, already so setting up is not a problem
For the hobbyist(IMHO)this is a waste of time and money as any adjustment is a trade off, and any extra piece of equipment will lower your s/n ratio and raise your noise floor.
Hopefully the line drivers will already have rasied this substantially so this "shouldnt be a problem,
Though the jury is still out on this one
<hr></blockquote>
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Berkshire uk
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
[quote]Originally posted by Danno:
[BThen just position it on the door-panel to see where the best fit would be. Then take off the panel and check the clearance depth behind it.[/B]
Kinda on the lines I was gonna work from
<hr></blockquote>
[BThen just position it on the door-panel to see where the best fit would be. Then take off the panel and check the clearance depth behind it.[/B]
Kinda on the lines I was gonna work from
<hr></blockquote>