TRDRacer

I might get flamed for this but here it goes.

I am at the point were I am going to replace my entire suspension on my car! This is a Weekend street and Track car! This is a NA with Turbo swap but all suspension is still N/A and hot been touched!

I want to do coilovers but I have a couple questions as the search did not really clerify.

1. If doing Coilovers in the front do you need to keep the torsion bars? And If I get regular Koni Yellow Sport what is the Max spring rate i can run upfront for my situation? What are the Stock spring rates from Factory for the Front and Rear?

2. For the rear, were and what kind of strut do I need to buy? (is it the same as the front strut/Shock?) Or if they don't sell coilovers for the rear by themselfs then can I build some myself with a raceredge coilover setup?

3. What spring rate do I need to run inorder for my car to have deleted torsion bars in the Rear and would I need to get the shocks/struts revalved?

Thanks guys!

MAGK944

Your post may get flamed mainly because there are a lot of answers on this forum already if you use the search function. It helps if you do a bit of research yourself first then ask the relevant/pertinent questions.

Anyway, your questions raise a few more:

1. What year is the car?
2. What brakes are fitted?
3. What transmission is fitted?
4. What is your intended build to be mainly used for street or track?

V2Rocket

1) there are no front torsion bars, the front suspension is a strut/spring setup. for street use most people ive seen wouldnt go above maybe 250 or 300#s in the front. the konis or bilstein HDs should work fine.

2) coilovers are available for the rear to be used either independently or in combination with the torsion bar, raceredge is a good place to get them from. (http://www.paragon-products.com/product_p/944arhk-r.htm)

3) stock NA equivalent spring rate for the T-bars is about 126 lb/in, its generally a good idea to keep front/rear spring rates similar. so find a rear coilover that is close or maybe a little less than your front springs.

J Silverman

Im running 400# springs on my 924 with Koni yellows and they seem to handle them just fine.

For the rear you need to find a threaded body strut if you want to convert to coilovers in the back. www.ground-control.com has a nice option, and can also sell you a fron tcoilover kit to use with the koni yellows.

V2Rocket

J Silverman - Is your 924 a street or strictly track car? I would think that a 400# setup might be a bit harsh once the car encounters a sizeable pothole.

rmconner80

What's the point of rear coilovers? You need to reindex the rear torsion bars when adding them anyway if you want anything close to front / rear even ride height, seems like it would only be a little extra work (if any compared to installing coilovers) than just getting the right spring rate on new torsion bars.

Potomac-Greg

Maybe we just have "front" and "rear" confused. The front (the direction you face when driving) has struts and no torsion bars. Coilovers are a nice option. Spring rates from 200 to 400 are roadworthy depending on your fortitude. Koni, Bilstein are good. Rears are torsion bars. You can replace the torsion bars (lots of labor) or add "booster" coilovers to increase spring rate.

Nader Fotouhi

Does weekend Street/track car also mean driving to the track? The Koni Yellows can handle 400# spring max unless re-valeved for higher rates. With 400# upfront, you need 30mm effective rate rear torsion bars or a combination of t/b and coilover to match the front rate. 400/30 is best with M030 sways.

Potomac-Greg

I took the lazy, low-tech way out. First I dropped the rear height adjuster to its lowest point, then bolted in rear coilovers. I set the coilovers to be weight bearing so final ride height is just a bit lower than stock. Doing this I did not have to mess with the t-bars at all.

Believe me, indexing t-bars is a lot more than "a little extra work" than bolting in rear coilovers. I was going to do the t-bars but once I gathered and read through all the conflicting D-I-Y guides and realized it involved dropping the rear suspension, unbolting the rear half-shafts and taking down the exhaust, I quickly changed directions. I'm OK with my tools, but I really was way over my head when I started to unbolt half-shafts.

Call it a hack job, but it was easy and it works. I've had it on track and love the way the car handles.

J Silverman

My car is a track car, but Id have no problem driving it on the street. I dont mind stiff cars though. For refernce I drove the car from DC to Atlanta for a track day. It wasnt a picnic but I survived. I do still drove it on the street every once in a while.

Potomac-Greg

Ditto. I have 400# up front. It's firm, but tolerable. That said, I've heard of guys who have full out race cars (944 Cup) who use 250 or 300# springs. I have no regrets. Firmer springs means you may not need to buy upgraded sway bars. For now, I'm staying with the OEM sway bar. Roll is well within the acceptable range. I might upgrade the rear to get more rotation in turns.

V2Rocket

am i going to break anything when i put 200# springs on in a week or so? i have a 25.5 bar on front and a 14mm in back. stock t-bars.

Potomac-Greg

200#? She'll ride like a Buick!

What are the OEM springs? 150?

J Silverman

Factory springs are closer to 125#. My M030 were 140#. I cant think that any of the top cup guys are running less than 400# springs. As my build into a full on race car continues (picking it up from piper with the full cage tonight... wahoo!) Im going to upgrade to 600-650# springs and probably 34mm torsion bars.

200# springs will be a mild upgrade from stock. The rears have a much bigger impact in ride quality than the fronts. I drove around with 400# springs and factory torsion bars for a while and the ride was a lot better than with the 30mm bars that are in there now.

V2Rocket

factory fronts for a 944 should be 160 and rears are equiv of 126.

im going to 200 because i dont want to change comfort very much but need new springs because the OEM ones are sagging and rolling the body through harder corners (only on right turns where my weight is on the outside of the turn) and rubbing the tires.

also the 200s will lower slightly.