Conor

It appears that my tank is leaking in the right rear area, near the pump and stuff. It's a pretty continuous drip, and doesn't appear to be coming from any hoses. As you can see from the pics, there is gas on alot of stuff, but it looks like it is originating from under the strap that holds the tank in. I'm pretty sure that it's coming from the tank, but if anyone suspects otherwise please tell me.
Are there any typical failure points that can be easily fixed? If I pull the tank out is it likely that something like this could be repaired?





Thanks,

Conor

Chris_924s

I think its "new tank" time. I have known people (my brother) who used an in tank sealant, just to spring a leak later due to freeze/ thaw cycles in weather.. Maybe someone has a better idea..

Conor

What's a new tank gonna run me you think?

Conor

I took a trip to the parts store and got a tank reapair kit. I'm gonna try that and see how it goes. Anyone know the best way to drain the tank? It's about half full now.
Also, can I remove the strap where the leak is without taking anything else off?

Thanks,

Conor

Legoland951

Taking the hose off at the bottom by the pump is the best way to drain the most out. I would find a good replacement tank instead of playing with repairing it if possible since gas leakage is no joke.

Jay W

Tank repair is temporary at best. Rather than taking the chance of blowing up you and your car playing around with a leaky tank for hours and hours, I think there are alot of good used ones out there. Leaking tanks because of rotting at the bottom seems rare on these cars. Are you sure its not coming from higher up? I see some wetness on the side of the tank. Maybe get some brake parts cleaner and spray that side of the tank down and when the fumes clear, crawl under there and watch to see where the fuel is coming from.

Conor

I know exactly where the leak is coming from now. I cleaned it up a bit and its coming from right under where the strap bends at the rear of the car.
I'm gonna take that strap off as soon as I can figure out where to put 6+ gallons of gas.

Perry 951

Get an old garden hose and clamp it onto the end of the fuel rail. (after you remove the nut and ball seal)

Pump the gas into another car by activating the fuel pump with a jumper. (DME Relay socket, terminals 30 and 87b jumped)

89magic98

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Perry 951:
<strong>Get an old garden hose and clamp it onto the end of the fuel rail. (after you remove the nut and ball seal)

Pump the gas into another car by activating the fuel pump with a jumper. (DME Relay socket, terminals 30 and 87b jumped)</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">If you do this, remember to be careful when putting the fuel rail nut back on! Don't over-torque it! I _think_ you only want 16 ft-lbs on this nut when putting it back on.

I was using a new torque wrench, and sheared off the threaded end of the fuel rail. I'll post a link to the picture one day. One of my shining moments in maintaining my car. <img border="0" alt="[crying]" title="" src="graemlins/crying.gif" />

I should have tried using the wrench on something like a wheel lug nut first to get a feel for how it worked. (My larger torque wrench gives a more audible "click" when it hits the desired torque.)

Conor

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Perry 951:
<strong>Get an old garden hose and clamp it onto the end of the fuel rail. (after you remove the nut and ball seal)

Pump the gas into another car by activating the fuel pump with a jumper. (DME Relay socket, terminals 30 and 87b jumped)</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Could you expand on how do do that?
What do I need to do before taking that nut off? Also, what do you connect to what to jump the fuel pump?

Perry 951

1st, pull the fuse for the fuel pump, then crank the car for 5 seconds.

At the end of the fuel rail there is a 17 or 19mm nut. You will want to remove that. Put some rags underneath to catch any fuel that comes out. There is also a small metal ball inside that makes the seal, be sure not to drop or lose it.

Attach a length of hose to go from that threaded fitting to the filler neck of another car with a hose clamp. No need to tighten it too tight, but tight enough so it does not drip all over the place.

Remove the DME/Fuel pump relay. You will see the terminals on the fuse box. One is labled 30, the other 87b. Insert a wire "jumping" the terminals. This will turn on the fuel pump, and pump the gas from your car into the other car.

No lost fuel, and you have a mostly empty tank. When the pump starts making different noises, pull the jumper. Do not run it completly dry.

When you replace the tank, replace the fuel filter, it will have contaminants from the bottom of the tank from when you pumped it out.

Conor

Is it ok to do that and not replace the fuel fliter right away? I'm planning on draining it to repair the leak, but hopefully a new tank will be in the future.

Thanks again!

Conor

Perry 951

I would not run the car with the old filter on it after you drain the tank. Over the years, dirt, corrosion, and other contaminates will get to the bottom of the tank. When you go and pump out all the gas, it tends to suck up some of the nasties. Once you start flowing a more fuel through it, it can dislodge the particles picked up in the filter. This can clog injectors and cause running issues.

Filter is a cheap and easy replacement, and you'll be right there anyway.

Conor

Is a generic fuel filter ok, like would I be able to get one at a local parts store?

Also, when I pulled the dme/relay there were like 9 terminals/socket type things numbered 1-9. None were 30 or 87b. Which ones should I jump?
EDIT: Never mind, its written on the relay. 2-4.

Thanks again,

Conor