how do you get the freakin transmission off!!!
11-21-2002, 12:54 AM
#16
Drifting
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so ok, whats next. i need to move the torque tube toward the rear i knwo thta, shoudl i actually try to get it out of there completely so its out of the way or should i try to jsut move it back a good foot or so. my dad is stuck on taking the whole thing out.
11-21-2002, 01:05 AM
#18
Drifting
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[quote]Originally posted by Cass944:
<strong>so ok, whats next. i need to move the torque tube toward the rear i knwo thta, shoudl i actually try to get it out of there completely so its out of the way or should i try to jsut move it back a good foot or so. my dad is stuck on taking the whole thing out.</strong><hr></blockquote>
You can't remove it without dropping the rear suspension, so NO! To move it back sufficiently you will need to rotate it 180 degrees.
<strong>so ok, whats next. i need to move the torque tube toward the rear i knwo thta, shoudl i actually try to get it out of there completely so its out of the way or should i try to jsut move it back a good foot or so. my dad is stuck on taking the whole thing out.</strong><hr></blockquote>
You can't remove it without dropping the rear suspension, so NO! To move it back sufficiently you will need to rotate it 180 degrees.
11-21-2002, 01:07 AM
#19
Drifting
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ok good i didnt want to take it out anyway, so ill get to work on that tomarrow. and most likely be back with more questions once i get to the bell housing. ah crap i just realised i have to buy another clutch to put in there...
11-21-2002, 08:40 AM
#21
Three Wheelin'
I had more problems than I expected trying to slide the torque tube back. I ended up taking everything I could off besides the rear suspension. It ended up falling down out of the way more than "sliding back".
11-21-2002, 09:14 AM
#22
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To make thing a little easier in sliding the torque tube back. First unboltthe starter, slave cylinder, and the torque tube from the bell housing. This should give you a good view of what you are doing at the front of the car. Next, get inside the car and unbolt the shift lever from the torque tube. I find doing this makes turning the tube a lot easier. Next slide the tube back far enough to allow it to rotate freely. Then rotate it 180 clockwise, at least I think it is clockwise. Try and keep the shift linkage from causing the torque tube to bind while rotating it. Just basically keep it from getting in a bind. Finally slide the torque tube as far back as possible. Sliding it far enough back will be a little easier without the cross member in the way. If I forgot something I am sorry. Just ask if you have any questions.
11-21-2002, 10:54 AM
#23
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billybones
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User # 760
posted 07-19-2002 12:58
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I just did my clutch not sure of the differences. but will state what I found.. top bolts I used a combination wrench used the box end on the bolt head.. and then stuck a box end on the open end of the wrench on the bolt for leverage like a breaker bar.. both wrenches standard offset. they slip in nicley between the firewall and engine. did not have to remove anything.. Torque tube, has a front and rear set of hooks at the back just before and after a brace that is just infront of the trany hollow in the rear..with the torque tube in normal position pull back about an inch or so.. rotate 90 degrees all the while doing this you must keep putting things back on top of the tube. once rotated 90 pull back as far as you can.. all the while keeping things on top.. the back hooks should beclear after about 4 to 5 inches.. then to get it the rest of the way out. rotate torque tube so the hooks are now on top. while keeping all the stuff above the tube there. then you should be able to pull the torque tube all they way back.. On the manual trany it has to be ALLL the way back till it hits the tire well... The main thing wasconstantly adjusting the stuff up top and slidding the muffler mounts as you work your way back. with the torque tube. 2 people, 1 front and 1 back would make this easier..It took me awhile to get this right. as I kept thinking this was far enough... it has to touch the spare tire well to get the bell housing out.. this was on a manual though.. but I dought that the auto is a whole lot different..good luck! Sorry about the length of this guy's but I spent almost 2 hours doing this.. as it was not ever clearly pointed out in anything I read..ie, haynes pull torque tube back......that is all it said..
--------------------
Dwight
85.5 944na
metallic blue
Finally done with the mechanical part. On to the fun stuff!
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Posts: 563 | From: Utica Michigan | Registered: Jun 2001 | IP: Logged
This was an earlier post in response to an auto trany. The hooks are what you need to clear. The 90 degree turn is what no one ever tells you..It needs to touch the spare wheel well to get the bell housing off.. may need to loosen the exaust manifold to get that out.. good luck!
Senior User
Rennlist Member
User # 760
posted 07-19-2002 12:58
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I just did my clutch not sure of the differences. but will state what I found.. top bolts I used a combination wrench used the box end on the bolt head.. and then stuck a box end on the open end of the wrench on the bolt for leverage like a breaker bar.. both wrenches standard offset. they slip in nicley between the firewall and engine. did not have to remove anything.. Torque tube, has a front and rear set of hooks at the back just before and after a brace that is just infront of the trany hollow in the rear..with the torque tube in normal position pull back about an inch or so.. rotate 90 degrees all the while doing this you must keep putting things back on top of the tube. once rotated 90 pull back as far as you can.. all the while keeping things on top.. the back hooks should beclear after about 4 to 5 inches.. then to get it the rest of the way out. rotate torque tube so the hooks are now on top. while keeping all the stuff above the tube there. then you should be able to pull the torque tube all they way back.. On the manual trany it has to be ALLL the way back till it hits the tire well... The main thing wasconstantly adjusting the stuff up top and slidding the muffler mounts as you work your way back. with the torque tube. 2 people, 1 front and 1 back would make this easier..It took me awhile to get this right. as I kept thinking this was far enough... it has to touch the spare tire well to get the bell housing out.. this was on a manual though.. but I dought that the auto is a whole lot different..good luck! Sorry about the length of this guy's but I spent almost 2 hours doing this.. as it was not ever clearly pointed out in anything I read..ie, haynes pull torque tube back......that is all it said..
--------------------
Dwight
85.5 944na
metallic blue
Finally done with the mechanical part. On to the fun stuff!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posts: 563 | From: Utica Michigan | Registered: Jun 2001 | IP: Logged
This was an earlier post in response to an auto trany. The hooks are what you need to clear. The 90 degree turn is what no one ever tells you..It needs to touch the spare wheel well to get the bell housing off.. may need to loosen the exaust manifold to get that out.. good luck!
11-21-2002, 11:05 AM
#24
Three Wheelin'
Before you remove the bolts holding the torque tube to the bellhousing, prop the engine up so it will not tilt backwards and put the driveshaft in a bind. I use a bottle jack and block of wood under the oil pan. Another idea is a piece of angle/unistrut between the fenders and a hook to the rear engine lift point.
I guess you are replacing the clutch? Detailed instructions are available for the 951. They are the bascially the same steps except for the exhaust system and need to remove the intake on early turbo cars.
I guess you are replacing the clutch? Detailed instructions are available for the 951. They are the bascially the same steps except for the exhaust system and need to remove the intake on early turbo cars.
11-21-2002, 05:53 PM
#26
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When I went to remove my trans I noticed that the spare tire well had been cut out. I called the PO and he told me that the trans had been fixed under warranty when the car was new and the dealer had cut it out 
So now it is a bit easier to remove but pretty ugly on the eyes.
i actually thought about removing the spare tire well to clean up the back end of the car, may have to have a couple more drinks and think about it a bit more.
So now it is a bit easier to remove but pretty ugly on the eyes.i actually thought about removing the spare tire well to clean up the back end of the car, may have to have a couple more drinks and think about it a bit more.
