Florida951

Well it does suck, remember the coolant going down and i dont know where its going post? Well its going right into the oil, and the horror stories have finaly reached me. Now I've got milk too!
Now I need to figure out what to do, Im completely out of money so how would be the cheapest way to get this done right. What headgasket should i get, from where(is it the headgasket?) and primarily where does everyone think i should start. One thing i do have is lots of time and i do know i will need it, what should i do on my own and what should i do while i have the head out! Ill post some pictures as i get them. WOW I cant wait to start! <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" /> <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" /> <img src="graemlins/cussing.gif" border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" /> <img src="graemlins/bigok.gif" border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" />

Skip

If you've got a dual mix (oil in coolant AND coolant in oil) it could be both, but more likely just the oil cooler seals.

If you end up doing the head gasket, might as well upgrade to the wide-fire - so you can play the boost game later with measured safety.

Do_not drive the car with coolant in the oil... it can easily destroy the rod bearings, along with other friction surfaces.

Good Luck!

Florida951

I only have coolant in the oil, no oil in coolant. The coolant level also only comes down after i turn off the car it could be the lack of oil pressure is letting coolant into the oil system after the car is off. Well i really hope its just the oil cooler seals. thanks for the info.

david fracolli

Sorry to say this but if you only have oil in the coolant it is very unlikely that it is the oil cooler seals. Everytime I have seen them go bad the oil always mixes with the coolant since the oil pressure is much higher than the coolant pressure.
Just my 2 cents and experiance doing numerous oil cooler seals.
Dave
85.5 944
unemployed snow bum
yes it is still snowing in upstate new york!

lordgrommit

Well I had a local shop do the valves and clean the head ..cost $350 then I did get the widefire gasket set I think it was $180 from Paragon or Vertex. bolted it all togher ( ok so it took four weeks ) and it's been rock solid ever since... now for that damm Huntly fuel regulator thats another story..

Matt

Florida951

Well I've decided to have a friend help me and tackle the job on my own. I drained the bad oil tonight, I'll post pictures of the work as i do it just for your enjoyment...
Well needless to say today was sort of interesting, as simple as it is to drain the oil I screwed up. I succefully removed the drain plug without any drops, I went inside and left the oil draining as i cleaned the wrench. I was very happy to see that i acomplished this by not dripping any on the ground, or my hand. As i walked back to the car i was shocked to see a nice and pretty reflection comming from the ground. Yes it was oil and LOTS of it <img src="graemlins/cussing.gif" border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" />
the drain plug managed to clog the small passage leading into the drain pan, the pan overfilled and 90% of the oil that was supposed to be inside was now a nice brown river heading downstream to the bottom of my driveway. <img src="graemlins/icon107.gif" border="0" alt="[icon107]" />




Here is my oil filler tube, hmm i wonder how im getting all that stuff out of my block does anyone know?


And here is a nice picture of my chocolate milk!

Florida951

Ok im starting to take my head apart friday...
I need tips about what to do and not to do at any specific part of the process... any advice any of you have would be great.

I will also be rebuilding it on my own and with no tentioner tool, how reliable is my automatic tentioner and how should i do the tentioning of the balance shaft belt.

Thanks <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

Bri Bro

You can get a loaner tool through most PCA groups or you can buy a simple but effective tool from

<a href="http://www.geocities.com/blaszak_precision/Belts.html" target="_blank">Blaszak Precision Motorsports</a>

Florida951

Tomorrow is the big day I start at 8:00am EST, I ordered a headgasket kit(WideFire) and it will be picked up tomorow. The head will go to a shop to get it cleaned, maybe I will seat the valves etc. Is it worth it to do a complete job on the head while its out,,,I dont know let me know what you guys think. More news soon.

PorscheG96

Wow, that engine looks terrible! You're gonna have to do a LOT of flushing to get all of that crap out. I flushed my cooling system for an entire day, over and over again when my oil cooler seals went south but my oil looked nothing like that! Definitely get new valve stems and have the valves and seats ground to precise angles, you won't have to worry about any of that stuff for another 100k+ miles. Detail EVERY step of pulling the head, we wanna see! Good luck!

Tabor

You should heavily consider replacing your rod bearings.

Bri Bro

Dido on the Rod bearings. See Tech note.

<a href="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/Tech3_6.jpg" target="_blank">Tech3 6</a>

Type_LT

I don't me to discourage you but if I looked in my oil filler tube and there was that much goo in there my engine would be pulled Did you get the manuals downloaded? If not here they are.

EDIT: E-mail me to wait in line to download via ftp the manuals or petcd.

Tabor

I second Type_LT.

Florida951

Thanks for all the info.. Hmm this sucks, how much do you guys think it will be in parts extra