Not too much in parts, but some more work. You need rod bearings, and an oil pan gasket. It would be a good time to change out the motor mounts as well, and they are cheap. Looking at a buck fifty more tops.

 

Ok WOW day one is already over, i just returned from picking up the head gasket set and leaving the head at the shop for cleaning and rebuilding.
What can I say, well so far its been a piece of cake...I started at 10:00am and finished at 2:00pm. Its pretty fun actually and i cant wait to get the head back and put it back together, I have the rest of my parts ariving on tuesday. Good news is that I found out the previous owner replaced all the little hydraulic valve tappet's they do not have a scratch on them and look brand new, the cylinders all look great and my waterpump and all the rollers are perfect. I have found however lots of oil inside the intake, I think its comming from the turbo. I hope my engine bottom end will be good as i do not have the money at the moment to go down and do anything to the crankshaft , It my bearings go bad ill worry about that later so im hoping for the best.






Here is my old head gasket my water leak into the oil was pretty small, The headgasket however was in horrible shape and is probably the original from 15 years ago.


Here is some more detail of my dirty engine with the head still on and then with it off



MORE COMMING SOON!

 

this is the perfect time to clean out your Idle air stab valve.

 

So how much stuff do you need to remove from the top of the engine besides the obvious valve cover, intake manifold, and fuel rail? Good pics!

 

Well that is pretty much it, you need to be careful not to let any screw fall into any opening in the engine! those are the main things.. also the airbox obviously. Make sure nothing is attached to it before you take the major parts out and just remove anything that gets in the way and keep it organized so you dont get in trouble while rebuilding.

 

I had a Ford V6 rod bearing go out on a SUV I owned. I bought a rebuilt motor and had a shop down the street RR the engine. The rebuild shop put the right head gasket on BACKWARDS and the oil looked just like the picture. Well the rebuild shop covered the cost of replacing the head gasket and then came the task of removing all the oil/water goo from the engine.

We went out and bought a couple cases of oil (cheap stuff),several quarts of engine flush and five oil filters. We took a rag and attached it to a rod and cleaned the oil filler. On the first three fills we added engine flush and let the car run for a few minutes, drained, replace oil filter and did it again. After about five times the oil was clear. This engine has been running perfect for three years even with my son driving it...VARRROM.

Hope this helps

 

Day two is finished, the head is now on and the exaust mainfold almost... The bolts would not go on as it was very hard to get it aligned. Because of the heat the exaust got a little bent and it took almost three hours to put alll the bolts on, well there is still one left but i figured its going on tomorow. The head looks great and it cost me $100 for cleaning valve seating and everything that had to be done, not bad. take a look at the pictures.










MORE TUESDAY...

 

I know its a PITA and very time consuming, but please post more pics!

Thank you for what you have posted so far, this is my summer project after I move to Phoenix.

I think I may have a crack in my pick-up tube, so I am planning a bottom end rebuild as well, since it probably needs it and I will be in there anyways. I will post the process when I do.

 

[quote]Originally posted by Water944t:
<strong>Thank you for what you have posted so far, this is my summer project after I move to Phoenix.
</strong><hr></blockquote>

When are you moving to phoenix? If you need any help, I'd be more than happy to lend a hand... or a beer. There's only two other 944/951 owners that I have met here in Phoenix... Roberto and Paul Bloomberg. I just met Paul today when he droped off an intercooler at my house. Thanks Paul!

Sorry for going off topic. I just started to clean my head and pistons today. How did you clean your pistons?

Thanks,
Dan

 

Here are some photos of what mine look like...

 

Love the beer cap...hehe... <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

 

 

And another entry...Not too many progress pictures today as I forgot to take the camera in the morning. The morning began with tightening the exaust bolts. When installing the camshaft make sure you move the crankshaft back a bit so that all pistons are on the same level and no where near the top of the cylinder, then install the camshaft and tighten it...This will help you not to bend the valves as you tighten the camshaft down. Move the camshaft to the right timing THEN the crankshaft, and if you feel any resistance STOP. Next all the little vacuum hoses and wastegate lines under the intake mainfold where done, here make sure that you know where everything goes so pay attention when you take it appart. OK all that is left tomorow is timing belts. Cleaning and VROOOM...(hopefully no bent valves)
NOW TO THE PICTURES!
Here is wher I am right now
http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/almost.JPG[/IMG]
My old belts ready to be done tomorow morning

Here is throttle after some WD40

Some detail of a new hose I installed

Some nice shot(Mike this is the water pipe you told me to replace LOOK its nice and black) Yes it is heat resistant paint.

Here are the little conectors at rear of the engine compartment, they where all loose but are now nicely organized.

Tomorow the final touches! <img src="graemlins/bigok.gif" border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" />

 

Ok... IM DONE Its been awsome, and much easier than i thought, if you have the time do it...BUT FIND SOMEONE WHO IS A GOOD MECHANIC.
Giving me a hand was a friend who is a mechanic for a living he works on his own and is a perfectionist, he had never done any porsches before mine, but the more i saw him work the more I trusted him. Everything worked out great, and everyone who is scared about timing belts (like I was before this) ITS NO BIG DEAL. Also
its very hard for anyone to bend a valve on this car, its very easy to time it right as there are marks EVERYWHERE. About tentioning, the factory tool was not used by us(We trusted the spring tentioner and for the balance shaft we used my friends hand as a guage, he said he knows what he is doing so I trusted him). So far everything is prefect, the car sounds great, and even though im not pushing it that hard these first weeks i can already feel its a little better low end. I also fixed a small oil leak on the incomming oil line at the top of the turbo. I did not do the shaft bearings and i suppose they are good as I have driven quite a while today and have heard nothing wrong. We used 2 bottles GUNK Flash cleaner in the oil and ran it once, drained it then fiklled up again with just oil and ran it for a couple of minutes again, at IDDLE. Then "The NEW" Mobil 1 15W50, new filter, new coolant, and before I knew it I had my car working again. Total costs 700 parts and labor for my "mechanic". Here are the timing belt pictures for today.

Here the old belts are removed! You do not have to completely remove the automatic tentioner. just losen the two screws holding it and slide it out enough so you can get the belts out and in under the back of it.


New belts in.


Almost done!


ready to go! Well exept for those dirty sparkplug wires.


The final product <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

 

great job, congradulations