Oil pan gasket done.
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Oil pan gasket done.
I just wanted to commiserate with anyone else who felt it necessary to learn how Dr Porsche wanted to seal the oil in the bottom of the 944. I discovered that the pan really should be installed top down,as in engine out upside down. Getting at it involves removing the front brace and control arms . It is XREMELY important to follow the tightening sequence and instead of the two step method I found 3 steps worked better and uniform torque ulimately 7 lbs (nothing) could be achieved. like this then. Thread all the bolts until you feel resistance then go round again until you fell some snugness. The follow the prescribed 1-2-3-4-5-6 etc wth first 4 lbs , trhen 7 lbs. I had to back my torque wrench way down for seven lbs. It sounds unlikely but it works as I'm not leaking from the pan. The problem seems higher up.
#2
Drifting
yeah I did this last year. This year I looked at it and in one spot it has split and is bulging out of the oil pan but it is not leaking. I used a torque wrench and followed teh sequence but I guess if you even screw it up a tiny bit you can splie the seal and have it bulge out the sides later on. lucky mine hasn't gotten worse and does nto leak.
#3
Rennlist Member
I finally got tired of the smoke form the oil that dripped from the oil pan and onto the crossover pipe every time I started the car - so I replaced mine this winter. The seal wasn't bulging. The right rear corner had deterioriated over the years from the heat of the exhaust.
It was a lot of work, but you learn a lot from doing this yourself - and, no more leaks.
I'll have to admit, I had some help from my two buddies:
It was a lot of work, but you learn a lot from doing this yourself - and, no more leaks.
I'll have to admit, I had some help from my two buddies:
#4
Rennlist Member
Every time I reseal the oil pan it always takes me about 30 minutes to actually get the bolts uniformly tightened. I hate it... It is a huge PITA
And, Jim.... what kind of leak do you have? where can you see the oil that it made you think it was the pan?
And, Jim.... what kind of leak do you have? where can you see the oil that it made you think it was the pan?
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
First I thought it was the RMS, but when I did the clutch last year it was dry. The pan was leaking from the corner nearest the exhaust so I expect that had something to do with it. I suspect the problem is at the rear of the valve cover although I can't tell for sure without pulling it apart.
#6
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Did you use a ft-lb wrench? As in 3/8" drive, 15-150 ft-lbs? An inch-pound torque wrench should be used, as in 1/4" drive, 20-180 in-lb. 7 ft-lbs is 84 in-lbs.
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I used an inch/pound 3/8". Its the first time I needed to tension a bolt that low.
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#8
Instructor
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Victorville, CA
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Great looking dog's, hey if you want to spend the money and make the job a bit easier I would get the lindsey three piece frame that gets you to the oil pain in three hours vs the quoted tweleve. Just an idea for next time when you have to get into that area again.