Yet ANOTHER 968 castor block install Q...
#3
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It's pretty straightforward. Although it's been awhile since I did this, IIRC you need to raise the front end of the car, remove the front stabilizer bar from the droplinks and control arms, and then unbolt the arms from the old blocks to replace them.
Just mark the position of the arms and old caster blocks where they meet the body before removing anything and then fit the new blocks in the same position. This way, any change in alignment will be minimal. Good luck!
Just mark the position of the arms and old caster blocks where they meet the body before removing anything and then fit the new blocks in the same position. This way, any change in alignment will be minimal. Good luck!
#4
Herr Unmöglich
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Since I did all my suspension this winter I wasn't worried about the alignment part as I needed one anyway. The job is super easy. Take the end bolt off, and then the two bolts holding the caster block on. It comes right off the end of the control arm... I did not remove sway bars at all. Slide the new one on and torque the bolts and end nut to factory specs.
Drink a beer.
Do the other side.
Still should only take you an hour or two at the most.
Drink a beer.
Do the other side.
Still should only take you an hour or two at the most.
#5
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#6
Burning Brakes
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I cleaned the area where they bolt up, and shot some spray paint to make an outline of where the blocks were sitting on the frame, that way I kept the same alignment when I put the new part on. It seemed to have worked.
#7
Captain Obvious
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Since I did all my suspension this winter I wasn't worried about the alignment part as I needed one anyway. The job is super easy. Take the end bolt off, and then the two bolts holding the caster block on. It comes right off the end of the control arm... I did not remove sway bars at all. Slide the new one on and torque the bolts and end nut to factory specs.
Drink a beer.
Do the other side.
Still should only take you an hour or two at the most.
Drink a beer.
Do the other side.
Still should only take you an hour or two at the most.
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#8
Drifting
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An additional note: take care to only use 35(?) ft-lbs of torque when tightening the bolts which connect them to the body. Those bolts have a tendency to strip out, and when they do.... it's not fun.
#9
Herr Unmöglich
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Yeah. The nuts that the caster block bolts thread into are welded to the inside of the body there. IF you overtighten them they can break off the body and then they float inside, and are a PITA to deal with. Factory torque only!
Good point Scott.
Good point Scott.
#12
Captain Obvious
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so I should loosely tight the bolts that hold the CB to the body, and torque the one on the control arm then? when on the ground torque the others?
#13
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I didn't touch anything but the casterblocks. Real easy. End bolts can be kind of tight. You can use impact on the driver's side, but there are lines that will prevent that on passenger side. A box end wrench and a jack worked great for me. I think you should plan on an alignment - the body to center distance is a little different, I believe. This little job made a surprising difference in the precision handling feel.