Another caster block question
#1
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I didn't want to jack the other thread so I just made another.
My weld nut that one of the bolts threads into came unwelded and got lost in that little mount in the body. Now I can't thread the bolt in to anything. How can I fix this?
Also it seems like I have the early casters. Shouldn't I have updated ones on my 86?
Thanks!
My weld nut that one of the bolts threads into came unwelded and got lost in that little mount in the body. Now I can't thread the bolt in to anything. How can I fix this?
Also it seems like I have the early casters. Shouldn't I have updated ones on my 86?
Thanks!
#2
Drifting
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Are there two 'levels' of upgraded caster blocks? I thought the 'upgraded' ones were the 968 ones. If so, then no, your car would not unnecessarily have them. Though they do make a good upgrade.
#5
Racer
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What about rivet nuts? Anyone ever tried these?
To see what I'm talking about, go to http://www.mcmaster.com/ and search for "rivet nut"
Last edited by Wallace; 04-23-2008 at 06:54 PM.
#7
RL Community Team
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I have 2 ideas. I have not tried either one; they are just ideas.
1. Try to use a wire/paper clip and magnet to fish the nut out from where it's hiding, and get it back into position, then use a resistance spot welder from below to weld the sheet metal to the nut. And hope it works. If you can't get a spot welder, you can try to just drill through the sheet metal in one spot where the nut will go, then mig a spot weld.
2. Cut away the area, mig or tig the nut back where it belongs, also reinforce the other nut WYAIT, and weld the area back together.
'86 with 968 caster blocks? Even some 968s didn't come with 968 caster blocks. They weren't used until like 1993.
1. Try to use a wire/paper clip and magnet to fish the nut out from where it's hiding, and get it back into position, then use a resistance spot welder from below to weld the sheet metal to the nut. And hope it works. If you can't get a spot welder, you can try to just drill through the sheet metal in one spot where the nut will go, then mig a spot weld.
2. Cut away the area, mig or tig the nut back where it belongs, also reinforce the other nut WYAIT, and weld the area back together.
'86 with 968 caster blocks? Even some 968s didn't come with 968 caster blocks. They weren't used until like 1993.
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#9
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its not tapped- it has a nut crimped into the frame in one spot. If the nut is gone, see if you can find a proper sized nut, stick it back in there and see if you can tack weld it like suggested.
#10
Three Wheelin'
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On the Revit nut idea, I have used those for smaller applications - possible but they seem a little light duty for this problem.
On Dan's idea... "...stick it back in there..." is the problem. Its been awhile since I looked at doing this but I remember thinking I would have to open up a hole in the frame rail, (1/2 in minimum) insert and attach the nut and then close up the hole. Do-able if Mig equipped but much more difficult for shade tree situations. Maybe you could leave the hole open, use a small "tab" weld nut but there would be some loss of strength... Bruce
On Dan's idea... "...stick it back in there..." is the problem. Its been awhile since I looked at doing this but I remember thinking I would have to open up a hole in the frame rail, (1/2 in minimum) insert and attach the nut and then close up the hole. Do-able if Mig equipped but much more difficult for shade tree situations. Maybe you could leave the hole open, use a small "tab" weld nut but there would be some loss of strength... Bruce
#11
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Sorry but I think if your nut completely came loose the only real correct way to fix it would be to have it welded back onto the frame. If you have access to a mig and a cut-off wheel it's pretty easy.
Anything less and I wouldn't feel safe.
Anything less and I wouldn't feel safe.
#13
Hey Man
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There were a few solutions in this old thread.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...+block+threads
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...+block+threads