Valve Cover Gasket on a regular 944
03-20-2008, 03:45 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
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Valve Cover Gasket on a regular 944
Okay, so I've known I needed to replace this because it leaks oil onto my exhaust manifold which begins to smoke out the hood and into the cabin (great!). The problem is, nobody sells 8 valve gaskets, only 16, and search didn't reveal that anyone has ever even done it. What's the deal?
03-20-2008, 04:21 PM
#4
Race Director
Well the 8valve cars don't have a valve cover so looking for a Valve Cover Gasket for an 8valve will not turn up anything. Our camshaft is housed in a large casting and the entire unit comes off. We typically call it a cam housing and the gasket is the cam housing gasket. It is just a semantics thing, but explains the lack of search results.
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03-20-2008, 07:11 PM
#10
Nordschleife Master
Yes, if you compare it to doing a vavle cover that takes something like 5-10min on a S2.
You have to pull off all the belts and then you can get it off. It takes about 2 hours if you are flying but usually it takes most people a hell of alot longer expecially if it is the first time it has been replaced. The first time you get to deal with the cork factory gasket. Ohh the joys of owning a 2.5L motor... Well, atleast its not a turbo.
You have to pull off all the belts and then you can get it off. It takes about 2 hours if you are flying but usually it takes most people a hell of alot longer expecially if it is the first time it has been replaced. The first time you get to deal with the cork factory gasket. Ohh the joys of owning a 2.5L motor... Well, atleast its not a turbo.
03-20-2008, 07:26 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
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Just a note for when you do change it. When you are pulling out the bolts accessed through the big plugs above the cast "Porsche", make sure you have some kind of grease or whatever on the allen wrench. It is not fun trying to fish one out that you dropped in there (ask me how i know). The grease will help the bolt stay stuck on the end of the wrench.
Yeah it will take a bit to do, but its not that bad.
Yeah it will take a bit to do, but its not that bad.
03-20-2008, 07:53 PM
#13
Race Director
Ah its not that bad. if you don't have your front timing cover on you don't have to remove any belts.. just loosen the t-belt tensioner and slide the belt off. If you do have the cover on no big deal pulling off the PS and alternator belts
infact all you have to do is remove the fuel rail, slide off the timing belt and remove the 15 allen head bolts. Gives you an excuse the paint the cam tower too
infact all you have to do is remove the fuel rail, slide off the timing belt and remove the 15 allen head bolts. Gives you an excuse the paint the cam tower too
03-20-2008, 07:59 PM
#14
Racer
03-20-2008, 08:09 PM
#15
(I am going to be taking on this same project within the next couple of weeks. I just need to source a tensioner stud and water pump studs.) I got my parts from vertex.
It hasn't been mentioned above so I will do honors. If they have not been replaced recently, you may want to replace front seals, belts, tensioners, studs, and water pump while your in there.
www.clarksgarage.com is an excellent resource.
It hasn't been mentioned above so I will do honors. If they have not been replaced recently, you may want to replace front seals, belts, tensioners, studs, and water pump while your in there.
www.clarksgarage.com is an excellent resource.