Ben951S

I replaced my rear pads, rotors, and calipers. I bled from all four corners, and I didn't think that the fluid level got below the pickup line for the clutch (I assume that's what it is on the side of the resevoir).

Anyway, it seems when I start the car, everything is fine, I put it in gear, wheels spin (this is all up on jackstands mind you), take it out of gear, I still get wheel turning (maybe a revolution per second), like the clutch is still partially engaged.

Also, brakes do not work at all, so I bet I still have plenty of air in the system. I have a motive power bleeder, but I tried to do it the quick with an assistant way, but didn't take that much fluid out of the system, just enough to get the big bubbles out.

So I assume I have tons of air in there, but I wonder about the wheel spin, because I just tried to replace the transmission fluid, and I used an oil extractor that was NOT up to the job (too thick). I put the pickup hose into the trans a fished it in to the bottom or so, I had to do this through the fill hole because the drain one was stripped. I then topped off what I took out with Royal Purple...

I couldn't have moved a collar or something with the pick up hose from the oil extractor, right?? That's my worry, just reading on how stuff works.com, etc. I highly doubt it, but I'm just a little worried. Please tell me I am crazy, and that when I put on my motive and bleed the clutch and all 4 wheels, I will be back to normal!

Thank you,

noob.

alex

First of all, everything worked fine before the brake job, right?

As far as the clutch goes- when you say "take it out of gear" you mean depressing the clutch pedal, not physically moving the shifter to affect the transmission? That could cause a partial engagement if there is air in the system.

Bleeding this stuff can take a while and be a real pain, but I would assume that everything is fine until you get the air out of the lines and everything firms up before I got too concerned.

Ben951S

1) Yes - Everything worked well (besides rear brake dragging) before parking it/starting this little project

2) I will be more clear (from memory).
* Start the car (shifter in neutral, pedal down in order to start)
* Release pedal. Still in neutral. No rearwheel movement
* Push pedal in, put in 1st, release pedal - wheels spin (yay)
* Push in pedal, put in neutral, release pedal - wheels still spinning (??)
* Press brakes to stop wheel spin (maybe just coasting from being in first) - No action in the rear (ha).
* Wheels still spinning... I believe engine driven (not just coasting).

?

Bottom line - Could I have caused something like this by putting a pickup hose into the fill hole of the trans? I would assume everything is 'bolted in' and could not be 'pushed around' by a semi-flexible plastic pickup tube from my oil extractor (though I did remove/insert several times trying to get to the bottom of the trans/pan).

Thank you.

alex

Got me there... Good luck, that seems a little problematic. You may still want to get all the air out and see how it drives... slowly. I mean, assuming the brakes can overpower the drive of the car

moorepower

Can't say for sure what's causing this, but I'm pretty sure you couldn't have damaged anything in the trans with a plastic hose. I'm guessing you either got some air in the clutch system while doing the brakes, or you've had a slightly dragging clutch for a while and just didn't know it until you put it on stands. Where in the pedal travel does the clutch seem to disengage? Has it changed since you did the brakes?

Ben951S

moorepower. This is a new car to me, only like 200 miles on it (from transporting it)... Could be right, clutch could be out of adjustment. I will get all of the air out, and THEN look at adjustment. I just want to get it out of my girls parents place to somewhere where I can work on it easier/not bother them.

V2Rocket

might just be cold tranny fluid. first time i started my car the back wheels were up from replacing the fuel pump and the car had sat for a number of years. they started spinning a little bit.

ButtSled

Check your firewall for cracks at the master cylinder mounting area. Have someone push the clutch and LOOK at the master to see if it moves. It should not move at ALL. Hopefully it is only the bleed job.

Ben951S

You mean when it's 32 degrees outside and I'm working on my car, the fluid may be a wee thick/cause something like that? Neat. =)

I will also check the firewall. =)

V2Rocket

yes. even with the car in neutral the gears still spin freely. they dont make any output power until the gear is actually engaged. if the fluid is cold/thick it will sort of take the place of the synchro/selector and will allow the idling driveshaft to turn the wheels a tad.

Ben951S

Good to know. The wheels were not even on, just the hub, so even easier to turn I suppose!

=) It was quite cold out, too. Thanks guys. I should still bleed the clutch, though I may let the shop do it.... =)