87 924S Auto-X Questions
#1
87 924S Auto-X Questions
I aquired a 924S with 49k for a deal. I plan to Auto-X the car without spending too much money. Our track is small and average times are 30-5 seconds a run. we barely hit 50 mph due to restrictions by the authorities.
Are KYB's any good? if not I will have to revalve the stock shocks. I would like to get some Koni Sports but it is not in the budget right now. I am planning to spend the money on Hoosier A6 tires. I will be racing in the SCCA E Stock Class. Are there any other cheap tricks? Since I will be using this car for auto-x only I am going to set the alignment and leave it alone.
Are KYB's any good? if not I will have to revalve the stock shocks. I would like to get some Koni Sports but it is not in the budget right now. I am planning to spend the money on Hoosier A6 tires. I will be racing in the SCCA E Stock Class. Are there any other cheap tricks? Since I will be using this car for auto-x only I am going to set the alignment and leave it alone.
#2
Some new shocks will help, but no reason to go too high end if you're going to keep running in the stock class. My opinion, but don't buy the Hoosier A6s. You'll cord them in no time. I have been running the R6s and while they're not as fast as the A6 I keep up with the guys on the Kumhos. Kumho V700 seem to be cheap and wear well and would probably last a season or two. The Hossiers won't
#3
That is the good thing about our track. Because our runs are short Hoosier A6s last a whole season of 11 races and Kumhos will last 2.5 years. Hoosiers are needed to win here. Kumhos always come in second unless the whole class is on Kumhos. No one here has tried R6s but we just got some sent to us that we got cheap to try out.
#5
How competitive do you want to be?
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#9
I'm paying attention; you said E stock. Welcome.
Try BFG R1s. They don't wear quite as long as khumos, but have better grip and better heat characteristics. They heat up pretty quickly and it's pretty much impossible to get them too hot in AX; I never spray them. That being said, you might actually need the hoosiers if the runs are that short. We have airport 90s runs here.
"cheap" things for stock class:
Alignment. Zero toe in the front, max out your camber all around, max out your caster, and put a bit of toe in in the back. You can get an unfair amount of camber from these cars; IMO why porsches are not allowed in street touring. I got 2.7* in the front of mine.
Rake: I would set the ride height to be perfectly level with the spare in. If you want more rotation, take the spare out and don't run much gas (the tank is in the back, remember). This will raise the rear and you'll get more rotation. Ideally you can run without the weight of the spare and gas, but it does help stabilize the car to have some weight in the back.
The front bar is "free" like the shocks. You can run the $40 swaybar bracket stiffeners available at pretty much any 944 place (got mine from rennbay) because you're allowed to replace the whole stock bracket if you want. Don't go too big, especially without a rear bar. I have 26.8 with delrin and I like it. I think a huge aftermarket one would be okay, too, though, but the 25.5 and 26.8 sizes are real cheap. I've got a 25.5 if you're interested...
You can do a "package conversion" for the sport stabilizers package and put on a rear bar that way. Since the only other thing in that package is the front bar, and the front bar is free, you can put on the rear bar your car would have had with that package.
K&N air filter and ignition wires are also "free" but not really worth it IMO.
As far as shocks, either get koni sports single adjustable from paragon or go home. If you can't afford the konis, then just run whatever you've got until you can.
Try BFG R1s. They don't wear quite as long as khumos, but have better grip and better heat characteristics. They heat up pretty quickly and it's pretty much impossible to get them too hot in AX; I never spray them. That being said, you might actually need the hoosiers if the runs are that short. We have airport 90s runs here.
"cheap" things for stock class:
Alignment. Zero toe in the front, max out your camber all around, max out your caster, and put a bit of toe in in the back. You can get an unfair amount of camber from these cars; IMO why porsches are not allowed in street touring. I got 2.7* in the front of mine.
Rake: I would set the ride height to be perfectly level with the spare in. If you want more rotation, take the spare out and don't run much gas (the tank is in the back, remember). This will raise the rear and you'll get more rotation. Ideally you can run without the weight of the spare and gas, but it does help stabilize the car to have some weight in the back.
The front bar is "free" like the shocks. You can run the $40 swaybar bracket stiffeners available at pretty much any 944 place (got mine from rennbay) because you're allowed to replace the whole stock bracket if you want. Don't go too big, especially without a rear bar. I have 26.8 with delrin and I like it. I think a huge aftermarket one would be okay, too, though, but the 25.5 and 26.8 sizes are real cheap. I've got a 25.5 if you're interested...
You can do a "package conversion" for the sport stabilizers package and put on a rear bar that way. Since the only other thing in that package is the front bar, and the front bar is free, you can put on the rear bar your car would have had with that package.
K&N air filter and ignition wires are also "free" but not really worth it IMO.
As far as shocks, either get koni sports single adjustable from paragon or go home. If you can't afford the konis, then just run whatever you've got until you can.
#10
I got a free set Kumho V710s 205/50-15 so I will be running those for now. I will be rebuilding both the front and rear original shocks, I will revalve them and use 20w Shock oil. I just can't justify spending $$ on the Konis, although I would like to get some rear Spax shocks. I have been Autoxing for 30 years so this is my chance to prove to everyone I can be competitive without spending a large amount of money. This is opposite of what I normally spend! I will work on changing the bushings on the front sway bar but I will probably have to do it after the 1st event since I have to fix the sloppy shifter and rebuild the shocks before the 30th of this month.
#11
I only put delrin in the front swaybar because the stock rubber blew out. I can't really notice a difference, and they were a pain to install. If your rubber hasn't blown up yet, let it ride.
#12
last minute getting my car ready for auto-x so I put the car on the rack today. Low and behold there were KYB's in the rear! and I checked the front and KYB's in the front also. Bummers I wanted to rebuild the front stock struts, oh well next time. I left the 20mm front bar and will just drive it as is with the Kumho V710s. See how I go up the Miatas in my class. Then on a test drive the drive belt started to squeak. Looking under the car....Someone has used a hardware store turnbuckle in place of the factory one and it fell apart! So tomr. I will have to go hunt one down or put another Home Depot one in just to make it thru the weekend. I will also try to go down to the Marine Hardware store and see if they have one that will fit! Porsche here don't stock any parts.....
#13
Drove about 7 miles to my old shop to get the tires mounted. Found out they were 225/50-15 Kumho V710s so this should be fun. The car without the powersteering has a lot of slow speed understeer. After getting them mounted it was fun driving home! just praying I dont run over any nails! Can't wait for Sunday!