Its a new year, with a new money pit!
#31
I was walking around HomeDepot today and saw a flexible drill attachment similar to this..
It seems like sort of a ridiculous setup, but using this i should be able to squeeze a reverse drill bit in and take a shot at drilling out the stud. What im thinking is i can remove the headers and make a simple piece of metal that will bolt to the studs, and allow me to stick a hollow aluminum bushing over the broken stud. With the bushing and metal bracket in place, i should be able to hit the stud almost dead on with a reverse drill bit and not have to worry about it walking.
Something like this..
Just a thought really. Im really not afraid to do the headgasket, its just it would save me around $1000 in parts by avoiding having to do it!
It seems like sort of a ridiculous setup, but using this i should be able to squeeze a reverse drill bit in and take a shot at drilling out the stud. What im thinking is i can remove the headers and make a simple piece of metal that will bolt to the studs, and allow me to stick a hollow aluminum bushing over the broken stud. With the bushing and metal bracket in place, i should be able to hit the stud almost dead on with a reverse drill bit and not have to worry about it walking.
Something like this..
Just a thought really. Im really not afraid to do the headgasket, its just it would save me around $1000 in parts by avoiding having to do it!
#32
great picture Jon!
Good idea with the drill, etc...but not sure I'd use aluminum for the bushing....it's really soft and you might wind up witht the drill chewing it up..then you'd lose alignment!
Maybe stainless? Or even a steel bushing I think might be better than aluminum.
Good idea with the drill, etc...but not sure I'd use aluminum for the bushing....it's really soft and you might wind up witht the drill chewing it up..then you'd lose alignment!
Maybe stainless? Or even a steel bushing I think might be better than aluminum.
#33
Jon, I'm telling you - try the welding trick. It works great. I have removed many broken bolts and studs that way.
If I wasn't waste deep in other projects, I'd suggest you drive up and do it at my place.
If I wasn't waste deep in other projects, I'd suggest you drive up and do it at my place.
#35
If I knew that was all it needed I probably wouldnt have sold it!
What you describe as the squirmy feeling is what got me a little squirmy on the track compared to the S2. I may have to get a set for the S2 before i put the weltmeister sways in the S2 (when it gets warmer).
What you describe as the squirmy feeling is what got me a little squirmy on the track compared to the S2. I may have to get a set for the S2 before i put the weltmeister sways in the S2 (when it gets warmer).
#37
Jon, you take the manifold off (so you can get to the flush broken stud). And with a mig welder, start making a bead right on top of the stud. Because the metals are different, the molten steel will not bond with the aluminum. After you've built up an 1/8" or so of weld on top of the broken stud, you can then put a larg-ish nut over the thing, and weld the little nub you created to the inside of the nut. This will a) give you something to hold onto; and b) the heat will help break the dissimilar metal bond between the stud and the head.
I'm not trying to beat a dead horse here, but, hands down, this is the easiest, most trouble free way tp remove a broken stud or bolt from aluminum. (And it'll be the quickest and cheapest.)
Good luck with it.
I'm not trying to beat a dead horse here, but, hands down, this is the easiest, most trouble free way tp remove a broken stud or bolt from aluminum. (And it'll be the quickest and cheapest.)
Good luck with it.