2BWise

Got the passenger side in after playing tug-a-war with the crossmember, but now I'm stuck! Where do I need to pry to get the driver's side out. There's lots of room to negotiate it out, but I can't find a good pry point, there always seems to be something else important in the way (brake master cyl., wiring).

So for those of you in the know. Where do I pry to get the driver side mount out?

Riff

How loose do you have the cross-member?? When I recently did mine, I essentially backed the cross-member bolts all the way out, then put them back in only a full rotation or two. Lowered the pass side the same amount to get clearance, but the real bizzatch was trying to get the new one in!

2BWise

I have the cross member held in place by about two threads on each of the four bolts, but there isn't enough clearance. If I pry between the motor and the cross member I can make enough room to get the pass. side out, but can't get the driver side. I need to pry on something but can't find a spot to get good leverage to provide the clearance I need.

75ohm

Is the engine supported while lowering the cross member?

xsboost90

hey bill- my phone never rang but i got your voice mail- didnt even show up on the missed call screen. huh. I have no clue as ive never changed them in the car before. Can you chalk up the motor and drop the crossmember down some more?

2BWise

I'm not sure if there's something I need to detach that I didn't, but I have the engine supported from underneath and the cross member by two threads on each bolt. I've tried jacking the motor up some more and the cross member wants to follow it up.

billthe3

I don't know how correct of a method this is, but when I was reconnecting my steering rack I lifted up the engine with a jack and piece of wood on the oil pan and was able to lift the engine and driver side mount bracket piece completely off of the motor mount. Had I been changing the mounts it seems like it would have just been an issue of pulling the old one out and sticking in a new one.

Riff

MM's are pretty basic, 2 nuts on top to the engine and a single underneath to the crossmember. Since the cross-member is moving with the engine, did you connect the passenger side already? Otherwise perhaps the old mount has a thread that is "hooked" onto the opening in the cross-member. Should be no way for the cross-member to move up with the engine if the MM's are disconnnected.


Good luck,

2BWise

Riff, thats what I was thinking but when I pryed a little bit the whole mount would go loose, but without giving enough remove to remove it even with all the bolts disconnected. Got it done this afternoon, but no where near the method described in Clarks Garage. What ended up having to happen was that I pulled the "foot" on the driver side and removed it so that I could get to the mount. Took about two mins then to get the old mount out and the new in.

2BWise

Drove the car about 30 miles last night. Holy crap did that make a difference. It now feels like my car just got 10 yrs younger. It starts much smoother and pulls smoothly up to redline. I'm amazed at the difference $240 and 8 hrs of work made even if it was a PITA to do. That said I don't think I'll ever want to do it again.

Pcar944

I've had that feeling too. It really is like a new engine.

jtsporsche

$240 for motor mounts?? isnt that kinda expensive? and how do you know when they need to be replaced?

gtroth

--feeling a little nostalgic, so I'll point you to the legendary SoCal Driver to answer that one (sure miss him).

post #7 here:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...t=cross+member

New mounts surpised me too. Thought my car was stalling at first since I could barely tell it was idleing.

PorscheDude1

Cheap aftermarket mounts SUCK!
You will end up doing again, so the $240 for factory mounts the first time is cheap.

SamGrant951

Nice work Bill, after mine were replaced I couldnt believe how BAD it was before. See you at Mid-O!