Clutch Job, easier to pull the engine and do it?
#16
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It's much simpler to do it the tranny-TT way. Don't get ahead of yourself... you can do all the seals with the engine in the car, the only one that will be hard will be the oil pan gasket. Even then, if you remove the engine xsboost's way, you'll have the same difficulty. YMMV!
I say bleed your clutch before you do anything. It's cheap and easy, and it should solve your problem. The smell of clutch is normal when you rub material off of it. The rubber center doesn't make a smell - when it goes out, you will still be able to drive and shift, it will just make loud clunking noises, and it won't be able to take hard launches.
An S head won't fit on a 2.7 block.
I say bleed your clutch before you do anything. It's cheap and easy, and it should solve your problem. The smell of clutch is normal when you rub material off of it. The rubber center doesn't make a smell - when it goes out, you will still be able to drive and shift, it will just make loud clunking noises, and it won't be able to take hard launches.
An S head won't fit on a 2.7 block.
#17
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Go out the bottom. Going out the top is a huge PITA. Ive done it both ways and will NEVER remove a 944 engine out the top again.
Buy a 2 ton hoist that has an extendable arm, and lift the car using that. Mine has the front frame rail tiw downs, the big black brackets that bolt to the frame rail and have a hole in them.
The other thing I did was get two short sections of 2" PCV pipe. Put each piece over the torsion bar housings (the tubes that stick out at the rear) then sit those on newer style jackstands that are cupped at the top (most are). Then it swivels up very nicely and doesnt try to slide.
![](http://thedge.info/my951/overhaul/sept806/IMG_8735_resized.jpg)
Buy a 2 ton hoist that has an extendable arm, and lift the car using that. Mine has the front frame rail tiw downs, the big black brackets that bolt to the frame rail and have a hole in them.
The other thing I did was get two short sections of 2" PCV pipe. Put each piece over the torsion bar housings (the tubes that stick out at the rear) then sit those on newer style jackstands that are cupped at the top (most are). Then it swivels up very nicely and doesnt try to slide.
![](http://thedge.info/my951/overhaul/sept806/IMG_8735_resized.jpg)
![](http://thedge.info/my951/overhaul/sept806/IMG_8737_resized.jpg)
#19
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The second time I had to get at the clutch ( in two days) was from the back and it took 4 hours. The first time was 20 hours. That was because fasteners were corroded and major nut and bolt surgery was needed. The reason for doing it over was because it wouldn't start and the replacement bellhousing I bought was for a 951 and while they are almost the same, almost doesn't work. So it all had to come out. Again.
#20
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Gotta vote for pulling the tranny and sliding the torque tube back. Pulling the engine, just for the clutch is more work than it is worth. These ain't 911's.
#21
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