Any difference between an 85.5 and an 88 trans?
#1
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Short: May need to put the 85.5 into my 88 dd- are they a direct swap, or even identical units?
----- Keep in mind that the grinding episodes were few and far between, and the ONLY reason I continued to drive it is that is was for short distances and it's a real pain with 4.5 kids, several in school, etc., to have to have the wifey drive my to work afterward & I DON'T NEED A LECTURE ABOUT HOW IT SHOULD HAVE BEEN PARKED AT THE FIRST SIGN OF TROUBLE... I'm 27 with 8, 6, 4, 9 mos, and minus 5 mos- so back off. Not that I'm stressed out or anything
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Long: I have an 85.5 with an passable trans in there- before I buy a clutch I want to make sure. The clutch was ok unless I was in stop/go (then it sounded like I was leaving in 1st w/out any clutch at all). Once I got onto the fwy I could shift very gently (and even now, once I am moving, shifting is a tad less smooth, but it's not that bad). However, last Monday, every time I tried to move from a dead stop, it gave me the same grinding noise (the heat wasn't exactly helping).
The weird thing is that I got the awful grinding even though I had been moving down the fwy at a good clip (not using the clutch at all). I made it home with only 2 grinding incidents (since its drivable once its moving)
I am going to pull the other trans in about 10 hours (as in Sunday, around 2pm PST) and I'd really like to avoid buying a clutch. Unfortunately, I think that is the road that awaits me.
So SOMEONE PLEASE TELL ME ONE WAY OR THE OTHER. The 944 trans is a real headache to install by yourself (which I will be), just because its so unwieldy.
I cannot escape the fact the it only happened previously when the clutch was getting massive use: heat and in stop/go- that seems like like a TOTAL clutch issue.
But, why would it work fairly well once I get going?
Thanks to all-
----- Keep in mind that the grinding episodes were few and far between, and the ONLY reason I continued to drive it is that is was for short distances and it's a real pain with 4.5 kids, several in school, etc., to have to have the wifey drive my to work afterward & I DON'T NEED A LECTURE ABOUT HOW IT SHOULD HAVE BEEN PARKED AT THE FIRST SIGN OF TROUBLE... I'm 27 with 8, 6, 4, 9 mos, and minus 5 mos- so back off. Not that I'm stressed out or anything
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Long: I have an 85.5 with an passable trans in there- before I buy a clutch I want to make sure. The clutch was ok unless I was in stop/go (then it sounded like I was leaving in 1st w/out any clutch at all). Once I got onto the fwy I could shift very gently (and even now, once I am moving, shifting is a tad less smooth, but it's not that bad). However, last Monday, every time I tried to move from a dead stop, it gave me the same grinding noise (the heat wasn't exactly helping).
The weird thing is that I got the awful grinding even though I had been moving down the fwy at a good clip (not using the clutch at all). I made it home with only 2 grinding incidents (since its drivable once its moving)
I am going to pull the other trans in about 10 hours (as in Sunday, around 2pm PST) and I'd really like to avoid buying a clutch. Unfortunately, I think that is the road that awaits me.
So SOMEONE PLEASE TELL ME ONE WAY OR THE OTHER. The 944 trans is a real headache to install by yourself (which I will be), just because its so unwieldy.
I cannot escape the fact the it only happened previously when the clutch was getting massive use: heat and in stop/go- that seems like like a TOTAL clutch issue.
But, why would it work fairly well once I get going?
Thanks to all-
Last edited by alex; 08-26-2007 at 09:45 AM. Reason: clarification
#2
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OK. http://members.rennlist.com/951_racerx/gearing.html keep that around.. all 944 gearing relationships are on that page. Most people find the 88 trans an upgrade.. shorter fifth and such. But that's racers. At 70 or 80 it'll be slightly higher rpm and I don't know if that would annoy you. From your post.. you sound like you might be someone that would tweak out at somethiing like that! ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
But yes, it is a direct swap.
The trans on the 944 is a very easy swap. Probably takes 2-4 hours on average if things don't get hung up. use a jack under it, or if you are stron genough just lay under it and lift it down.
Not sure on the clutch, I've never had one go... but obviously if it is worn and slipping it will slip worse from a stop as there is more stress on it.
Edit - I was looking at it backwards, since you have an 88, the 85.5 trans will have a taller 5th gear so you will have a lower rpm at highway speeds, which is nice for a DD
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
But yes, it is a direct swap.
The trans on the 944 is a very easy swap. Probably takes 2-4 hours on average if things don't get hung up. use a jack under it, or if you are stron genough just lay under it and lift it down.
Not sure on the clutch, I've never had one go... but obviously if it is worn and slipping it will slip worse from a stop as there is more stress on it.
Edit - I was looking at it backwards, since you have an 88, the 85.5 trans will have a taller 5th gear so you will have a lower rpm at highway speeds, which is nice for a DD
Last edited by Yabo; 08-26-2007 at 11:37 AM.
#3
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You're okay with a late (85.5+) tranny. The earlier tranny will fit, but there is no sender for the speedo. I've heard of guys here retro-fitting, but that's not an issue here. I don't know if the 88's used the rubber-centered clutch discs or not. If that's the case, the rubber could be deteriorating and you'd need a new clutch. When mine went, I couldn't even shift. Is there a rennlister in your area that could give you a hand?
#4
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The swap isn't an issue- I've done 2 clutches on these before, by myself (and both times had to drop the tranny, but on the 85.5, there was a different mounting setup than the 84). I am just wondering if its worth the time to go out to where my parts car is and lay in the dirt for half a day to pull it.
The symptoms are what bother me, it just seems like it could go either way.
I'd prefer to keep the gearing of my 88, but if the tranny is the issue, I won't lose any sleep over it- actually it would be great not to shell out $600+ in clutch parts.
Maybe a more appropriate question would be: What are the symptoms of losing the ring & pinion or syncros?
And why isn't there a smilie getting shot on the face, or hanging itself? Seems more appropriate at times....
The symptoms are what bother me, it just seems like it could go either way.
I'd prefer to keep the gearing of my 88, but if the tranny is the issue, I won't lose any sleep over it- actually it would be great not to shell out $600+ in clutch parts.
Maybe a more appropriate question would be: What are the symptoms of losing the ring & pinion or syncros?
And why isn't there a smilie getting shot on the face, or hanging itself? Seems more appropriate at times....
#5
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I just wanted to preempt the people who seem to pop up anytime someone has a problem: "You kept driving? You must be a total moron. You deserve this..."
Ok, so maybe thats a slight exaggeration, but you get my drift- if I could have taken care of it sooner, I would have. My sarcasm doesn't translate well in print.
#6
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1 person tranny swaps... it's doable but if you have pals that will work for beer, even better.
A tranny jack is the key. Don't waste money on one of those that'll fit a jack head. Get the real kit, you'll thank me.
Ring and pinion failure... check the 'crunch' in my sig. Going from 2nd to third, the rp failed then shifting (or the attempt) to 4th released pressure from the gears and it went to hell. Couldn't freewheel the car even in neutral and clutch in.
A tranny jack is the key. Don't waste money on one of those that'll fit a jack head. Get the real kit, you'll thank me.
Ring and pinion failure... check the 'crunch' in my sig. Going from 2nd to third, the rp failed then shifting (or the attempt) to 4th released pressure from the gears and it went to hell. Couldn't freewheel the car even in neutral and clutch in.
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#8
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It really sounds like the clutch is not completly disengaging and that points to the slave cylinder. Try this. Get the rear wheels off the ground ( almost) just leave a little resistance. Run the motor and in gear push in the clutch. Obviously the wheels should not spin. If it does the clutch lever is not extending far enough and thats the job of the slave cylinder.
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jim 7- the slave may have contributed, but I replaced that whole hydraulic system a while ago. From everything I know, and the input from everyone else, it is most likely the clutch, unfortunately.
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As someone you just came in from the garage for a time out from a clutch removal you have my deepest sympathy for this is truly a job from from hell. Mind you this is is second go around and the bolts are all fresh. Not like the first time. Get lots of penetrating fluid on the clutch retaining shaft bolt and on the speed sensors. Now why would I know that.