sweet9fortyfour

Let's start off with this. I feel if you are going to be doing changes of this sort you should get a good wide-band 02 meter and some kind of data logging. I use Innovates LM-1, LMA-2 http://innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm1.php
to keep track of whats going on with your engine.

I haven't done a write up yet because I'm really not done I'm still playing. But its working fine. I've put close to 6000 miles on the car. The car has great throttle response idles better then it ever did with the AFM. Pulls hard from low rpms no stumbling. Dyno runs yet to come. But I'm sure they will be good. Ever if I didn't gain any power the gains in drivability are well worth the effort.

Sorry about having to click thumbnail pics but I haven't found a hosting site that will put in a pic big enough to see.

Here's how I chose the MAF that I did. I connected several different ones in line with AFM and took readings while driving till I got one that read the "same" as the AFM.


Here are a few logged pages of the AFM and MAF while driving. I have saved log files that I can e-mail to anyone who has Logworks 2 which can be downloaded from Innovates site.




You need a 85.5 up DME. I'm running an 89 2.7 DME but worked fine with the 86 and 88 DME and the MAF I'm using is from 99-02 2.0L Escort, 98-02 2.5L 97-00 3.0L Ranger, 97-98 3.0L Taurus I'm sure there's more but got these from parts interchange.


I removed the plug from the AFM and the wiper board to expose the IAT its just siliconed in so gently work it out.


I'm currently using the stock IAT(intake air temp) sensor installed in intake hose with silicone.




As for wiring A on MAF needs 12v switched power. I have mine hooked to positive side of the coil not many convenient places on the early cars to pull power. Late cars can pull from diagnostic port or fuse box. B&C need to be grounded to the chassis and D needs to be connected to where the wiper output was see pic. Tape everything up and drive.


Here's a pic as I'm running know.


I'm sure I left some things out so just ask and I'll answer the best I can. As I make changes I post updates.

AznDrgn

Interesting, first one that I've seen that doesn't require a separate translator module. What gains have you seen and what kind of tuning are you still doing?

sweet9fortyfour

As for gains it has noticeably more power better idle especially with the air on. Picked up a couple mpg. Revs quicker and crisper. I was going to put a 0-10k ohm potentiometer in place of the IAT. Just to see how much it changes things.

sweet9fortyfour

I found a unmolested AFM today so I'll go to the dyno tomorrow and compare MAF to AFM.

Andy1212

No A/f changes? Do you think the stock IAT sensor is accurate enough. Bosch sells theirs for like $5.

sweet9fortyfour

Not sure what your asking but I haven't made A/F changes.
I'm sure IAT sensor isn't the most accurate it is 20+ year old technology but its hard to find one with the right resistance values.

sweet9fortyfour

My dyno man canceled on me yesterday and said to come in this morning. Of course this morning on the way to the dyno I have some issues with a/f ratios between 4-6000 rpm its way rich. But I ran it anyway needless to say power was down in the rich zone. After the runs with AFM I noticed the wire on the IAT was broken on the MAF soldered it put MAF back on for another run and no friggin start. Changed DME relay no start, swap DME no start, put AFM back on still no start. Still strapped to dyno we've got fuel no fire. Check coil got power so ground negative side to make it fire. The injectors buzzed for a second and quit. Well the injectors were open dumping fuel didn't realize it till fuel was running out the intake all this by 11 this morning. Got all the gas taken care of do some testing and reference sensor is dead. No "big deal" have a spare set at the house well not make it any longer it came home on the trailer. Here's the runs #6 is MAF #7 is AFM I'll go again when get every thing straightened out.

Mongo

It looks like you're running a little too rich in the mid-range, which is causing that dip in power there. This can be caused by restricted airflow. The 944's intake manifold is restrictive resulting in turbulent air and high pressure. While the pressure is a good thing for vacuum, the turbulence isn't.

In your case, the fractured wire to the intake air temperature sensor caused the DME to go rich in the upper RPMs, resulting in the power loss.

I have been working on an individual throttle body project that may yield significant power gains when coupled with a mass air flow sensor, or even stand alone fuel injection.

KY944S

This is what I'ne been waiting for Thanks Sweet.

86 951 Driver

Great write up. I may have to do this myself.

marcusw03

so more than a year later what is everyone's stand on this?

V2Rocket

i just bought an escort MAF a few days ago that should be here soon and I will be doing this as soon as i find a cheap late DME.

ill let you know how it turns out

marcusw03

Nice thanks. I am planning on doing it. Are you buying a new or used MAF?

ScoobySteve

The engineer in me is interested to see how this turns out for a second person trying it.

Also, I'm even more interested in seeing someone combine it with the Maxtronic tuning system. It seems to me that being able to alter the IAT compensation map might be of use since the MAF signal already incorporates air density compensation.

Stephen

marcusw03

Hey Steve welcome to the boards. UC Irvine is a great place ever go there?